I shoot my Model 29 single action style. Been having off and on pushoff problems. I would tighten the spring stain screw and that would fix it, however now, even when the screw is tightened all the way, I get pushoff. I am the original owner and have never tinkered with the pistol in any way. I shoot moderate loads and never any bullets over 260 grains in it. Am I correct to assume that all I need do is replace the mainspring to solve this issue?

I have a model 27, 24, & 57 that I shoot much more often...with no problems. I cannot fathom why the Model 29 would have such an issue.

As long as you (or previous owner) have not replaced or modified the OEM rebound spring (using a lighter one), I would expect the SA bevel on the trigger needs to be sharpened. Another possibility would be dirt, shooting debris, or old lubricants compromising the action itself. These contact points are susceptible to wear just like any other interface. If the rebound spring has been lightened, or a lighter spring used, going back to the OEM spring may cure the problem.

What is the SA pull weight now?

Sharpening the trigger bevel is a very simple job, but requires the correct stone and the use of the correct procedure. As long as there is no significant damage, a trained, competent gunsmith qualified to work on revolvers should be able to fix the problem without replacement of any of the components.

The other viable option would be to call S&W Customer Service and send the gun to be serviced. While it's there, you could have them check the gun over to be sure it meets specs. 1-800-331-0852

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

First, keep the mainspring tight. This is not an adjustment... once you verify pushoff, it can be repaired as noted but it takes the correct stone and angle. Not a job for a novice.

Thank you..I will contact S & W and see what they say. Just a light trigger touch will drop the hammer but the firing pin doesn't protrude through the firing pin hole. It works fine in the double action mode.

That's good, the hammer block is doing it's job.

.

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Waiting for the break of day

I believe the bold text above is most likely your issue, if you truly are the original owner and have never messed with it.

I would like to point something out though and please don't think I am being a 'smart', but if the hammer notch and trigger sear were properly fitted with positive engagement from the factory, then there will be no push off. Factory springs, lighter spring, or even no springs at all shouldn't induce push off with positive engagement. Unless I am missing something?

I know armorer951 is a wealth of S&W knowledge and I enjoy reading his insights on smithing. So figured I would inquire because lighter springs were mentioned as a possible cause.

Actually, although the hammer block is one of the important passive safety devices built into the gun, the hammer block is not at work in this particular scenario (push off). The primary passive "safety" in the S&W revolver is the relationship between the rebound seat on the bottom of the hammer, and the hammer seat on top of the rebound slide.

If the hammer pushes off, or the gun is dropped while cocked and comes off the bevel of the trigger, both the hammer and the trigger return to their "at rest" positions. Due to the impetus from the rebound spring, the trigger and rebound slide assembly arrive ahead of the hammer, which places the hammer seat (on top of the rebound slide) in position to prevent the hammer from moving past it's "at rest" position, and the hammer nose (or the frame mounted firing pin) from entering and passing through the breechface.
Although the flag on the hammer block has been carried upward by the forward movement of the rebound slide, it is not touched by the hammer face in this particular scenario. (push off)

This mechanism, designed into the hammer and rebound works to prevent discharge of the gun, even if the hammer block has been removed.

The flag on the hammer block does serve to block the hammer's forward movement if the gun is dropped on the hammer spur while at rest, and the hammer stud were to fail. This is why the "hammerless" models like the 640, for instance, don't have hammer blocks installed. Also, this is another reason why the rebound spring should not be altered on service guns, as it plays a critical role in the successful operation of the safety devices built into each revolver.


The photos, of a de-milled 686, serve to illustrate this important design......

action at rest:




trigger back, hammer down position-firing:




hammer seat - rebound seat:

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

You mention the "bold" being the issue...I am not sure what "bold" is. I am the original owner and have never changed or modified any parts in it.

Thank you....if I cock the pistol and lightly brush against the trigger--the hammer drops. The firing pin does not protrude from the FP hole as it is blocked by the hammer block. It will function normally double action. I think I best send it to S & W and have them repair it. Once again I am the original owner and I have never tinkered with it or changed any parts. My biggest mistake was not getting a Ruger Redhawk.

Thank you...I will not use it until it is repaired.

Proper hammer & rebound seat engagement is the number one safety "mechanism" in the modern DAO/internal hammer S&W's which lack a hammer block.

In the OP's revolver? I'd stop shooting it until the revolver can be examined by a competent smith/tech and corrected.

I had a 629-4 that came with push-off as a standard feature.

Not being a S&W trained armorer at that time, I took it to the head armorer (who was a trained revolver armorer).

Unfortunately, he couldn't adjust the SA notch and correct the condition using the original hammer and trigger in that revolver frame. He said the tolerances and clearances were too far on the wrong ends of proper specs to be able to correct them to work in that frame. Fortunately, we had access to other parts appropriate for that gun, and the armorer was able to easily install them and adjust their fit so they worked in that revolver frame, and without push-off.

Moral of the story?

Sometimes it's a very simple and easy "fix" ... (using the right stone and maintaining the right angle, and not making "1 too many" strokes against the stone ) ... and sometimes it may require new parts. Letting someone do it who has the knowledge, experience and stone (and parts, if necessary), is usually the prudent course of action.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

If you look at post #6, member iPac put part of a quote from armorer951 in boldface (darker) letters.

Before sending your model 29 back to S & W, I personally see no harm in removing the stocks and thoroughly flushing the internals with aerosol brake cleaner via the frame opening for the hammer, lightly re-lubricating the same and seeing if the problem persists. If it solves the problem you have saved yourself (and the gun) a trip and the expense, and if it doesn't the factory will have a nice clean gun to work on. Hope everything works out for you.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I will try that...and let you know...thanks!

I tried and no change whatsoever...thanks for the tip.

I bet if you remove the hammer block and test it again, you will find that the firing pin still won't protrude when the hammer drops. The rebound slide is doing its job. The hammer block is back up.

Armorer951 has his stuff together. I'm also a S&W revolver armorer and agree with all he has said in this case.

I've repaired push off by changing triggers or hammers. Sometimes both, I only had one Highway Patrolman that I couldn't fix. Sent it back to Smith & Wesson and they changed out a lot of parts. I can get away with this because years ago I bought a 4x8x4 box of Smith parts and have lots of triggers and hammer to pick thru.
SWCA 892

Thank you...back to S & W it will soon be going!

Maybe a foolish question...but if S & W determines that nothing was changed in it (which it wasn't) , would the repair be covered under their warranty?

It was made well into the lifetime warranty era, so it 'should' be repaired at no cost to you. I'd give customer service a call and describe your situation, and they should send you a prepaid shipping label.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Thanks...I thought it best to ask. I own four S & W N frames...every one has had what I consider serious issues. I had to send two back in the past. I know this is the S & W forum, with many members thinking highly of S & W, but I am not at all satisfied with the S & W brand. I take good care of my firearms and don't abuse them...yet the S &W's don't seem all that durable.

I have sent a few in and all were repaired at no cost to me. Being a safety issue they will jump to return that pistol to them. I have nothing BUT good things to say about Smith & Wesson warranty services.

Thanks. I am just amazed that a model 29 would have such issues...I never shot many heavy loads through it....I wonder how their 500 holds up!

No doubt you're disappointed, but I bought a new Stainless Super Blackhawk that NO-body could hit the broadside of a barn with. A friend who is an experienced hand loader bought it, certain that he could work up a great load? no luck

Send your Smith back to the factory, they will make it right and yes like most company's Smith is not the company they were, but they still make a very fine weapon.

I've shot numerous Redhawks, while rugged built, they look a little rugged, you bought the right gun to start with. Nothing else is a Smith and Wesson, and that's the main reason they are still here in this very difficult, litigious market!

Thank you...I will send it back. Once it is fixed and I am shooting it again, I will be another proud owner.

Depending on what the tech finds they will probably drop in a new trigger, hammer and springs and call it good.

I'll have a rebuilt/overhauled Model 29...good as new.

That's right, the 29-5 Classic DX that I traded on a 1991 Colt Combat Commander is probably the second most missed Smith I have ever sold. I had a pre-27 that I paid 450 dollars for that was just gorgeous, that's the first.

The 29-5 and 29-6 N Frame 44s are among the nicest, best shooting 44s that Smith ever made. The endurance package helped to make the Smiths far more durable, while maintaining their very classy feel...

I'm positive Smith and Wesson will make it right, since you shot it a bit, ask them for a super close going over and rectifying any possible issues to bring it back up to factory spec. I'd tell them I'm expecting a nice trigger as well as a safe weapon, you won't be disappointed.

I had a similar issue on an ANIB 29-2 from the very early 70's and yes I was disappointed and angry, but their gunsmith at the time did indeed replace the hammer and gave it a nice tune, its still a beauty.

Update..................

S & W gave me a Fed Ex shipping label...later today it'll be on its' way back to S & W.

Thank you everyone for your responses. I had issues with two Ruger Superblackhawks and had to send them back a no. of times. I shoot medium loads & quite a few .44 Specials in my .44 Magnum pistols. I take good care of them, but I get upset when they don't function as they should.

I'll report back what I am told after S & W repairs it.

Same here, and I get a little disgusted when folks start making excuses for poor quality?? but Smith does tend to rectify their mistakes as well as they may, but sometimes quite frankly there is NO excuse for some of the stuff they send out.

But frankly Ruger is worse right now, but Smith did have some definite issues with the Shield in .40, and there were several "kabooms" that they really should have replaced weapons and did not, offered a "discount", that would have ticked me off??

The revolver I mentioned above did return from the factory with a broken rear sight, which scratched the top strap?? they offered to reblue it, I told them they weren't gonna get near it again. I had to wait nearly two months for a sight blade, which was a royal pain to change, I asked them to send me a rear sight assembly since they were out of sight blades, of course they refused...

Hey Guys, WHAT is PUSH OFF.
Thanks, Hank

Well done Sir !

I've never broken a Smith, can't say the same about My Redhawk however...

What broke on your Redhawk?

I have a Redhawk from many years ago. When it was new I was inspecting it one day and noticed that it felt like the hammer caught on something during a slow/controlled fall, with the trigger fully pressed. Odd. Made me wonder if continuing to shoot it might damage something on the hammer and trigger.

I sent it back to Ruger, asking them to check it. I got it back with a new cylinder, hammer and the entire trigger guard plate & mechanism. Left me the original frame and barrel. Guess whoever looked at it figured something was a bit out of kilter.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

The link between the hammer and mainspring. I think there was a recall for this.

So what do you think of the Redhawk vs. an equivalent S & W model...how do they compare?

Sign Me up for a M29 with a 4" tube anytime.

I own that Redhawk 5 1/2" and a 629-4 Classic 6 1/2". The revision of the 629 was supposed to be among the earliest to receive the "endurance" revision.

Even so, after the former revolver armorer at my agency had to address some carry-up issues a couple of times, after using some stout loads, I've mostly stopped using really heavy bullet weight Magnum loads on a consistent basis in that 629. I use my Redhawk for those.

I like both, but I suspect the Redhawk will better endure heavy loads for a longer period.

If I were getting another one nowadays, I'd probably opt for either the short-barrel Redhawk built on the Super Redhawk frame, and/or the 2.75" stubby Redhawk (with the better shaped grip). I had to have my grip frame modified to a Bird's Head many years ago, so it better fit my hand and was more controllable under recoil.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer

Wallyl earlier this year I realized my 29-2, which I bought new in the 80s, had developed push off. I called S&W and sent it off to them. They put in a new trigger, new cylinder stop, new hand assembly, put in a firing pin bushing and turned the barrel in and recut the forcing cone. My gun is pre-lifetime warranty so I had to pay 287 bucks. But my gun is safe to use and feels like new. And it shoots much better. I consider it money well spent and if you can get it done for free all the better.

Most interesting....maybe I best be happy with my 8" M29...

I have babied my M29 and used my Ruger Superblackhawk much more often. With most loads the Ruger gets 50 FPS faster velocities with the same loads over the M29.

Sorry that you had to pay to have it overhauled, but seem that you are happy with it. I sure hope my 29-4 is covered under the lifetime warranty...I assumed that it is.

They said the lifetime warranty started in 1990 so you are good. They called me with a price quote before doing any repair.

This was just posted on You Tube....a clip that shows how to dissemble & reassemble an N frame revolver. Lots of good commentary from a guy that was trained by S & W. I saw one previously from Midway USA on You Tube, but this one is far more comprehensive.

Disassembly and Care of the S&W Revolver ~ Learn from a Factory Trained Armorer! - YouTube

Model 29 is back from S & W..the trigger was replaced. It took 7 weeks to get it back after I sent it to them.

Push off is when pressure against the hammer spur causes the hammer to fall from a SA cocked position.

Yes, so I discovered. S & W replaced the trigger..it works fine now.