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03-29-2017, 03:20 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Baton Rouge, La.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sodacan
Break Free CLP works great for me and my many really old revolvers.
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I've had Break Free CLP go gummy on me. Use it sparingly.
The action of my J-frame and three rifles that were lubed "liberally" because they were in storage turned to near varnish.
It's good stuff , just don't do as I did and leave a thick coat on or in your gun , it will go gummy over time.
Gary
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03-29-2017, 03:27 PM
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I bought my first can of Break Free CLP last month. My first impression was that it would be OK for the field but you'd want to use something more refined when you got the gun home.
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03-30-2017, 03:29 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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The only thing I've really changed with my gun oils is to begin to use some of the synthetics. To the best of my observation and experience, I really like the synthetic gun oil made by Birchwood Casey. I have also bought a small bottle of the Hoppes Elite gun oil, as well as the Elite cleaner product. Haven't used the Hoppes oil as much as the BC stuff but have found nothing to cause me to throw it out. I get very good lubricity from the BC oil and it does not seem to collect dirt and dust and firing detritus as badly as some of the older oil products. And it does not gum up at all in my experience. I tend to use these products sparingly so I also tend to reapply it fairly often, again in small amounts and in specific locations. There are a great many products that will do the job pretty well, so we use what we like or what we have on hand till it's gone if it doesn't cause issues. I don't shoot thousands of rounds today in short periods of time. I also do not deep clean as much as I used to. I like the synthetic cleaners because I don't feel the need to be as careful about getting them on my skin. I only have fun when I am pushing bullets down my barrels, and I do not clean my guns beyond pushing a patch or three through the barrels with cleaner on them, followed by a patch lightly touched with the oil products. Wipe down the outside to get the powder fouling off the metal, as well as my fingerprints, and rack 'em till next time. I wipe down the exterior of my EDC often, and usually give it a light shot of the synthetic oil every time before I go for a shooting session. This has worked very well for me and is presented for whatever it might be worth to you all.
__________________
So long ... Ken
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04-08-2017, 08:42 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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RemOil or Hoppe's 9. Whichever is closest when I clean a gun!! gary
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04-08-2017, 08:55 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Ohio
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I like to use a dry moly lube for the moving parts under the side plate. Moly stays put ,is a great lubricant ,gets into the metal and does not attract dirt or dust.
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04-10-2017, 05:31 PM
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I removed the internal lock on my revolvers and tapped the hole so that I could install Zerk fittings. I use the same grease I use on my boat trailer bearings. It's that waterproof red stuff and I hook up my air powered grease gun and pump until the grease oozes out of all the cracks. I really like the red stuff because it looks good oozing out of my stainless guns.
I tried the Frog Lube just like Tyrod but found that if you didn't detail strip the gun every time, it gummed up and froze up the gun. I had a 1911 that stopped working and looked like it had maple syrup inside it. That was the end of my experiment. I have now moved over to M-Pro7 products and I find that they work as advertised. I have also had great luck with Hoppe's gun oil and Rem Oil and have no problem recommending either of them.
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04-10-2017, 05:47 PM
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US Veteran
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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I have found Italian Gun Grease (sort of a thicker CLP) is great inside, with a small dab of boron nitride grease on the pins (trigger, hammer) and smeared on the yoke.
Too light and thin and it eventually just runs out over the trigger or on the hammer, depending on how stored.
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04-10-2017, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old tanker
This stuff doesn't gum, and works better than anything I know. Got about a half a can left. Sold to me by a gunsmith I knew in the Fifties.
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That can't be easy to get more of.
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04-10-2017, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmj8591
I removed the internal lock on my revolvers and tapped the hole so that I could install Zerk fittings. I use the same grease I use on my boat trailer bearings. It's that waterproof red stuff and I hook up my air powered grease gun and pump until the grease oozes out of all the cracks. I really like the red stuff because it looks good oozing out of my stainless guns.
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I thought it was a great idea until I finished installing Zerk fittings on three revolvers just below the cylinder release.
I used a grease gun with black moly grease and it looks terrible on stainless. The hammer is too slow to fire the primer but, the trigger pull is great. They are ruined!
I'm starting to think that you were pulling my leg.
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04-10-2017, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pittpa
That can't be easy to get more of.
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I checked Ebay, nothing.
I saw it for sale a few years ago.
I'm sharpening my harpoon, I plan to get a lot soon.
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04-10-2017, 06:29 PM
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As an armorer and a pistolsmith I have for years used what I considered the best light lubricant available...Singer Sewing Machine oil. It doesn't run quite as well as Rem Oil but is designed to lubricate the gears etc of a sewing machine that run in the thousands or RPMs. If it works for that, great, I'll use it. Revolvers especially S&W's have a few points internally that get a lot of wear that semi's don't get. The trigger/sear connection, hand/ratchet connection, and the trigger/cylinder stop connection. All those need good long lasting lubrication.
There is no oil that won't congeal at some point. Jojoba oil is from a plant. Sperm oil used to be used in Chrysler Corps 383 engines. No gun company owns their own refinery. Petroleum products are purchased by the gun companies and they add their own special formula to it, i.e. teflon is what Rem oil adds among possible other things. I'm fairly certain in many cases it's just oil. Colt used to sell lubricant pens that has LSA in them. So there's nothing particularly special about gun oils. Rem oil is nearly $2 for a very small bottle. Singer sewing machine oil can be had in any fabric/pattern/sewing machine store all over the USA for about $1.49 for 4 oz. I've used it for 50 years, since an old parachute rigger told me about it.
Last edited by flintsghost; 04-10-2017 at 06:32 PM.
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04-10-2017, 06:32 PM
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nraman
I checked Ebay, nothing.
I saw it for sale a few years ago.
I'm sharpening my harpoon, I plan to get a lot soon.
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I sorta meant, without a harpoon.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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04-10-2017, 06:39 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flintsghost
As an armorerand a pistolsmith have for years used what I considered the best light lubricant available...Singer Sewing Machine oil. It doesn't run quite as well as Rem Oil but is designed to lubricant the gears etc of a sewing machine that run in the thousands or RPMs. If it works for that, great, I'll use it. Revolvers especially S&W's have a few points internally that get a lot of wear that semi's don't get. The trigger/sear connection, hand/ratchet connection, and the trigger/cylinder stop connection. All those need good long lasting lubrication.
There is no oil that won't congeal at some point. Jojoba oil is from a plant. Sperm oil used to be used in Chrysler Corps 383 engines. No gun company owns their own refinery. Petroleum products are purchased by the gun companies and they add their own special formula to it, i.e. teflon is what Rem oil adds among possible other things. I'm fairly certain in many cases it's just oil. Colt used to sell lubricant pens that has LSA in them. So there's nothing particularly special about gun oils. Rem oil is nearly $2 a bottle. Singer sewing machine oil can be had in any fabric/pattern/sewing machine store all over the USA for about $1.49 for 4 oz. I've used it for 50 years, since an old parachute rigger told me about it.
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I agree with you.
The modern oils are geared towards automatic weapons that are fired, disassembled and cleaned. All these wonder lubes (I have a few) don't stay put for very long, they evaporate too fast for what I wanted. A very long lasting film to avoid opening up my revolvers again.
Rem Oil, slip 2000 etc. are cool but evaporate too fast.
I got some of that heavier slip 2000 ewl30, it looks like it might be what I want. I used it on a couple of guns to see how it stays on.
Thanks.
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04-11-2017, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nraman
I need a good lube that won't dry up after long periods, lose its lubricating strength, congeal etc.
In fact, if anybody knows what brand S&W use, that will be great.
No, I don't want to use Mobil 1 or ATF or such. I need a true gun oil for the revolver mechanism.
Thanks.
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FP-10 is pretty good.
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