I have a model 18-3 that after shooting between 4 and 6 full cylinders gets very hard to push new rounds in. I also have
a K22 with 2 charge holes with same issue.
A friend has and 22 caliber forcing cone reamer and a 22 caliber finish reamer so today he worked on both
The 18-3 showed a forcing come of .223 ! and did not look like it had an bevel in the forcing cone. He reamed forcing cone to .252.
He then reamed all the charge holes in cylinder with the finish reamer and all were very tight.
He then repeated on K22.
More after I shoot both.

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SWCA 1932 SWHF 135

A lot of us have the same problem with our K22's. I polished the chambers on mine then use Federal Bulk from Walmart, the copper plated stuff. Before with mini mags or whatever, I would be all bound up after maybe 50 rounds if I was lucky, now I can shoot until I get bored, no extraction issues either.

The Manson standard finish chamber reamer has solved many K22 sticky chambers. Just use plenty of cutting oil.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I thought it was just me!

I've owned 3 K-22s and 2 Model 18s, and all had very tight chambers and sticky extraction. I finally gave up.

On the other hand, I had a little Model 63 that was fine in every way.

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“What you got, ain’t new.”

I looked at the tools and I think the reamer was a Manson. The forcing cone reamer was it a set from Brownells. The set also had a facing cutter to true up the face of the barrel. I contacted Brownells and all their 22 caliber are out of stock and no restock date shown.
I bought the 38 caliber set years ago and used the cone 11 degree reamer a lot.

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SWCA 1932 SWHF 135

The problem that Toyman and other like you have experienced with the M 17 and M 18 is usually a too tight of fit on the extractor star and not chamber size. But, with that said, S&W is well known for chambering 22 caliber chambers a tad smaller in diameter than most everyone else.

S&W for years and perhaps still make the extractor star and mill it to size in a separate operation from reaming the chambers. In my experience the extractor star is most often just a little 'tight' fitting on the average 22 caliber brass. The Manson finishing reamer made specifically for revolver chambers and not rifle barrel chambers is the solution.

Place a minimum of three fired brass in the subject cylinder and ream the three open chambers. As stated, you can't use too much cutting oil. Never turn the reamer counter clockwise, even when extracting it. This is a messy job. Move the fired brass to the freshly reamed chambers and repeat. Each time the reamer is to go into a chamber, the chamber has to be surgically clean, as is the reamer. Did I mention, use lots of cutting oil? I use Mobil One Cutting Oil as I like it a lot better than the older but still available dark oil that gave all machine shops that distinct odor. .....

The composition and tensile strength of the extractor star is slightly different in 'cutting' feel than the chamber steel is. When the reamer bottoms out it will have a much reduced feel of 'drag'. That is the signal that you have completed that chamber.

Now, for a pet peeve; The best thing that brass cartridge cases do is "obturate" during ignition. That means that the case blows up like a balloon and thereby seals the chamber from most of the gases being developed in the case. When that happens the case is pushed backwards. The recoil shield is there and catches that force. It is important for a long useful life for your high pressure big bore handgun to hold that impact to a minimum. The way to do that is to NOT have polished chamber walls. The finish on a chamber done with the PROPER reamer will have a very slight 'hatch' look to it. It will NOT be mirror slick. IF your chamber is mirror slick from polishing it will allow that fired cartridge to slam backwards into the recoil shield with much more force than what would happen if that chamber wall was left in the correct condition the reamer left it. That abuse is accumulative. Your handgun will be worse for the wear because of it.

It is not a proper or optimum solution to sticky extraction to polish chambers. It is proper to ream those chambers. Also, it is far best if one chamber needs reaming to go ahead and ream all of the chambers so as to 'uniform' all of them as much as possible. Accuracy comes from 'repeat-ability' both physical and mechanical. ....

UPDATE:
Went to range April 18 and fired 6 full cylinders. After firing turning gun barrel up only slight push need to eject fired cases.
No effort needed to insert new cartridges and when firing no sparks as seen before forcing cone cut.
Job well done !!

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SWCA 1932 SWHF 135

This is the reamer for those that might want to ream theirs': Rimfire Cartridge, .22 Long Rifle Finisher (Cyl) : MANSON PRECISION RIMFIRE CARTRIDGES | Brownells
It's one of the best things you can do to a S&W .22LR revolver.

Thanks for the info Brownells is out of stock

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SWCA 1932 SWHF 135

Yes, but since you now know what to ask for you could check with Manson...

Is that a typo or did he actually open the forcing cone up to 0.252"?

I rather like that smell. As well as Kroil and MEK.

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NRA Benefactor

The forcing cone, or rather lack of a forcing cone measured .223 slightly larger than a .22 caliber bullet. Bob used a 11 degree reamer to make a forcing cone and at the opening it measures .252. After firing cone looks good no leading to speak of .

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SWCA 1932 SWHF 135

I have a .22 combat masterpiece ( pre-model 18) with extremely tight chambers. Is there a person on the site who offers reaming service ? I spoke with 3 local "smiths" that looked at me like I was speaking latin. Don't own or have access to a drill press and don't trust myself to do it freehand. TIA.

I love how Kroil works however I'm NOT a fan of the smell! Whenever I use it unless its 10º F or pouring outside, I use it outdoors. I use TAP Cutting Oil and it works fine - smells better too

Catwrangler, the reaming is done by hand, no drill press required. There is a "T" handle for the reamer just like a tap handle. It is a very easy process if you take your time and follow directions. The only real caveat is never turn the reamer backward.

Stu

Interesting thread. So far I have not experienced any problems with my 1947 K-22. Been shooting it since I was 5. Nice to know what to try if the problem occurs.

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

My S&W model 48-4 had 2 tight chambers which were reamed. The offensive chambers are stamped with an 'X' now.

Everyone seems to complain about this (including me) on S&W .22's and I wonder just how much if any, the tight cylinders contribute to the superb accuracy of the M17's and 18's. My vintage M63 does not have as tight Charge Holes as the 17's and 18's. Hmmmm.......

My Colts are accurate but not to the same degree as the Smiths and the ammo just drops in and out of those Cylinders.

The reamer does not touch the forcing cone, so accuracy is never affected by reaming the chambers.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I have followed these threads for a number of years, and I have been interested in this question. Out of all of the threads on this board, I have not seen any reports of S&W .22 revolvers that shot worse after the charge holes were reamed. Many of these revolvers are owned by serious target shooters, and I think if issues were being introduced, there would be some reports about it.

So my conclusion is that the reamers that are used for this job still keep the tolerances tight enough for excellent performance. I would still be interested to see before and after testing on a ransom rest, but that is just a matter of curiosity.

There is a different question about whether the chambers were made so tight on purpose. Perhaps it was believed that the extremely tight chambers would improve accuracy, and I have also heard theories that the specifications for .22 ammo were slightly different at the time. There has been a fair bit of discussion about what the thinking was when these tight chambers were made, but I have not heard any clear evidence on this issue.