Took my 27-2 out just to wipe it off and admire. Noticed rust on the pins on the cylinder that fit into the two holes in the "star" part of the extractor. Freaked me out a bit! Sprayed some liquid wrench on the rust and cleaned with a tootbrush, then cleaned the holes with a plastic pick. Pulled the grips and everything is ok.

Bought some Ren Wax to protect the finish. For those of you that are using it on your blued guns, what is your process? Clean with your favorite cleaner, then wax on wax off? I plan on only waxing the blued part, not inside the barrel, cylinders or cradle. Also, plan on waxing the underside of the grips and frame before I put them back on.

Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

I wipe them down with 93% alcohol (grips off) inspect and apply RenWax. Other waxes do well,but I like that nice clean look inside the RenWax can. I buy those cheap white cotton cloves (inspection gloves)and use micro fibre cloths from the dollar store (2 for a buck)

On my nicer guns, I use Ren but on lesser guns I use Johnson since I have a can that Ive used for years and seems to do the job. I usually wipe down with clean cotton rag before applying Ren and then wipe again.
On the others (ie; our American Legion parade rifles) I apply johnsons and then leave it until next time we use them. I then wipe off. Never had any problems and don't spend all that much time/effort either. If wet (caught in the rain, etc), I remove the stocks to thoroughly dry before waxing both wood and metal. Dunno if correct or not but as stated, no rust problems yet.

I use Denatured Alcohol to wipe down, let the alcohol flash off then wax. For the internal parts I douse with Birchwood Casey's "Barricade", wipe off the excess. It's just a very light oil with rust inhibitors.

I usually just wipe them down with a cotton rag before applying the wax with my fingers and buffing with another rag.If the gun is still oily,I'll use acetone to clean it.Any oil or solvent on the surface will dissolve the wax.

The same company makes a product named Pre-Lim. No fair guessing why...

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

wipe them down with denatured alcohol

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

Anyone use Eezox instead of denatured alcohol to clean first? Seems to be pretty popular.

If you are having problems with oxidation, I would suggest a product like Hornady One Shot TAP HD-Extreme. Ren Wax is not specifically designed to prevent rust, particularly in internal mechanisms. Pure lanolin, and RIG are also great, particularly for "long term" types of storage applications.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

There's no reason to completely remove all oil off the surfaces before applying the wax. Just wipe off any excess oil with a old cotton T-shirt or towel before applying it.

+1 moosedog!!

I also remove the grips and apply a light coat to the frame WITHOUT wiping it off. Then re-install the grips.

If wood grips, a light coat goes on the back of these as well prior to re-attachment.

Where do you buy Ren Wx?

I bought mine from Amazon.....(Renaissance Wax)

I wipe the gun down with an old t-shirt to remove any oil or powder residue then apply the Ren. I wipe it off with microfiber cloths. I got the 10 pack from Harbor Freight for under $10. I bought 10 pack of cotton gloves from Tractor Supply for $10. The Ren Wax I bought online. You need watch prices because some seem cheap till they get you for shipping.
I haven't tried Johnson's so I have no idea how the two compare. I guarantee the Ren Wax is way more expensive for sure. It does a really nice job bringing out the finish luster especially if you remove any oil first. It works great on blued or SS. A film of it on the finger goes a long ways. A small can of Ren will last a very long time.

bought mine at brownells.
think midway has it too.
different prices and sizes available depending where you look.

Like MetalMan mentioned above, I also like to Ren Wax my wood grips. Whenever, buy a used revolver with wood stocks they are usually soiled on the underside. I clean them with Murphy's Oil Soap then oil them with a quality wood oil and finish with Ren Wax. It really is a great product. I don't think the final look is any better than Johnson's Paste Wax but protection down to the molecular level is a comforting feature.

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I'm gonna grow fins.

Thanks everyone for the advice. The end result!

The 27-2

27 waxed.jpg

Grips from some other gun

python grips adjust.jpg

Ren-wax (yes, I do have a large can) is a terrific "wax" and I use it often - just not on firearms! Nothing wrong with it, it's just that I actually shoot all my guns and find it way too much trouble to constantly clean the firearm after shooting (which strips the wax), prep it and then re-wax it again.

For protection I use the same oil to protect the metal as I do to lubricate and it takes me 10 seconds to apply since there is still some on the gun after cleaning it. When one shoots often as I do, removing, prepping and re-waxing is just way too much hassle!

If I had a gun that I was not going to shoot (Safe Queen or Wall Hangar) then I would use the Renwax on it, but I do not own any of those. I use Renwax on all sorts of stuff around the house, garage and vehicles and it does a nice job, but for SERIOUS rust protection on outdoor items and metal that gets exposed to either the elements or humidity I use Rust Inhibiting Grease (RIG GREASE is sort of like Cosmoline). For my firearms I have used Rig #2 Oil for 36 years with excellent results. Now they will not look as museum-like with the oil on them as they do all Ren-waxed up, but again they are not on display and they do get shot often.

I realize many do not mind this tedious process of cleaning, prepping and waxing all the time and they use Renwax judiciously - that's a personal choice.

Waxing is ok if you've got the time and inclination.
If I'm in a hurry and the gun will be shot sometime
soon I will spray it down with 97% alcohol and after
air drying I will spray it with Dillon Case Lube.

That stuff is lanolin dissolved in alcohol. It forms a
tight moisture barrier. It works fine and I don't have
to buff it. I have other things I prefer buffing.

Then when I want to use the firearm, I spray it with
alcohol, wipe off with an old tee shirt and it's good to go.