Hey all, I have a 19-3 that shoots like a dream, but compared to some of my other S&Ws, the cylinder timing feels a bit marginal.

When pulled in slow DA, my other S&Ws have solid lockup, with the bolt stop clicking audibly into place and locking the cylinder a split second before the hammer falls. It's noticeable and distinct. But my 19 doesn't do this. The bolt stop finally locks the cylinder in place at the very second the hammer falls. With fast DA, the flywheel effect of the cylinder can sometimes allow it to lock up "properly", but in other DA fire, it's as-described. I've filled the cylinder with empty cases to secure the ejector, and it still does it. The gun doesn't spit or shave lead, and it is accurate and has an amazing smooth action, I just want to address this issue before it gets worse. Could it need an oversized hand? I'm extremely mechanically-inclined, (I can rebuild cars and motorcycles, and I work on my other guns), but I've never gone into the guts of a revolver for more than disassembly, deep cleaning (or spring changes), and reassembly. Is this within the realm of a guy like me to fix himself, or should I seek a S&W guru to do the work?

Thanks in advance!

A very mechanical oriented person like yourself can probably do the job.

You will need an oversize hand, a hand window file, and a flat diamond file. A caliper or micrometer would be helpful.

Take the hammer, trigger and associated parts out. File the hand window towards the center pin until the oversize hand will easily slide in the slot. Be sure to file the vertical surface below the hand window to match. Assemble the new hand to the trigger with the rebound slide and spring and try to cycle the action. It will most likely stop when the hand binds between the ratchet and the frame. Using the diamond file, narrow the inside of just the hand nose where it contacts the ratchet. You can use a measuring instrument to see when you are nearing the thickness of the old hand. You will want to stay a few thou. wider than the old one. On this part go easy. Just .001 or .002 is the difference between too much and not enough. File a little and check the function. Do a bit more and recheck. With careful work you will soon have the action back to new specs. If you go too far, the gun is still OK, just get another hand and try again. Save the old parts, as they may be just right for a different gun.

Be aware, there may be other issues that need attention. It's always a good idea to have someone knowledgeable at least evaluate the situation.

Proper revolver timing is the "heartbeat" of your model 19. IMHO, timing issues, including repair and fitting a hand are jobs for someone with experience and the proper tools.....especially when it comes to the hand and ratchet fitting. You should have an experienced, trusted gunsmith evaluate the perceived problem before you dive in. Without training and proper tools, you can ruin the extractor, and literally cause irreparable damage.

You can, and should repair a lot of things yourself at the kitchen table.....this is not one of them.

The other option would be to call S&W Customer Service, 1-800-331-0852

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

The timing was ever so slightly off on a model 10 I recently acquired and it turned out the extractor pins were both missing. Don't overlook that potential problem area.

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My Daddy was a pistol..

That's kinda where I'm at. I'll do a LOT of stuff, but this sounds like real artisan-level stuff. Can any old gunsmith do it, or should I seek out a real zen-master guru? Any recommendations on that front?

Extractor pins are GTG.

IMPOSSIBLE!!!! This only happens to Pythons.

While the above responses both have merit, I have had some success with just measuring the hand width and replacing it with one .001 or .002 over without needing to file the hand window. If everything was in spec before, that will take care of you for awhile. If you need more than that, refer to Toolguy's post.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

I sent a model 13 back to the factory about a yr ago for a tune up . It cost me about $180 and it came back in great shape . the timing was off although the extractor pins were both in place . Loosing the extractor pins is something that does happen occasionally with the K frame 357's . I would just send it back to the factory and let them tune it up .