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05-17-2017, 12:40 AM
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Rust pitting on SS Model 60-9?
I'm working on a newly acquired Lady Smith that wasn't stored in the best conditions. All the surface rust is coming off with a green Scotch pad. By following up with a gray 800 grit pad, I'm getting a nice satin finish.
But, the sideplate has a section of rust pitting, as seen in the photo. I can feel it with my fingernail. The green pad isn't working, but I'm reluctant to go with an actual sandpaper for fear of losing the Lady Smith markings or leaving a depressed area.
Any suggestions?
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05-17-2017, 03:50 AM
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Bummer. The laser etch letters come off so easily. You could try 400/600/800 paper and oil to go after the pits with a cut off popsicle stick to wrap the paper over. and then try to feather it out blending in and fine polish with a pad.. Whatever, it will probably show.
Last edited by bountyhunter; 05-17-2017 at 03:52 AM.
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05-17-2017, 06:38 AM
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I'd suggest covering the etched letters with tape before proceeding. You can get the pitting off and then use finer abrasives to get the entire surface uniform afterward.
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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220
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05-17-2017, 09:45 AM
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Basically Murphydog gave the best advise for preserving the Ladysmith logo. However by doing so the finish will be different when you sand out the rust. I would also try Copper Wool before you sand in conjunction with some oil. Cover the logo and try that. Go lightly and inspect results often.
Stainless guns are STAIN-LESS not STAIN PROOF so some preventative measures must be taken. My EDC which is a M60-7 does develop some light rust under the grips during the Summer months and so I routinely remove the grips and address that with Rig #2 Oil so it does not become a problem.
You might want to check inside also! I've seen many stainless guns with rust inside as well!
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05-17-2017, 10:10 AM
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Thanks much.
As for the inside, it is pretty ugly. Fixable, but I have my work cut out for me. My wife really likes the feel of this one, so will do my best.
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05-17-2017, 10:17 AM
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Stop where you're at and cover the pits with the grips.
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05-17-2017, 07:53 PM
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pits.......
bounty hunter is almost correct, you need a bit WIDER and a bit heavier ( thicker) than a popsicle stick, so as to NOT dish any of the area you will be lightly polishing with some fine emery paper ( aluminum oxide? ) paper.....
make sure the side plate is on something like rubber so as to NOT slip around on you....can use "slave" screws or pins to hold things steady..........
and yes stay away from the markings, or as noted above , put some tape over them.........then blend in the polishing as you were doing.......those marks are from moisture under the edges of the grip panels.......and YES, the grips will hide them anyway.........sooooooooo
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dan
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05-18-2017, 12:18 AM
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I need to stop being so picky (my wife will never know what is under the grips anyway), and just complete this project.
Here is what it looked like after the first go-round. The frame under the grips will never be right, they are so heavily discolored. In the end, it will be a pretty little revolver.
I also got this Ruger Redhawk 44mag, with a little worse rust. The guy had a S&W 500 8 3/8th" he also kept under the vinyl couch cushions, but hadn't had it long enough for it to get too bad. It had pinpoint rust spots that cleaned up perfectly. Someone will get a vg condition hand cannon.
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05-18-2017, 05:52 AM
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Forgot to mention, S & W still makes the J frame LS and there was a recent post in which the factory re-engraved the sideplate logo on the poster's gun. Don't recall if it was part of a larger refinish and I think it was done on a K frame (65 LS) so it looked a little small. Hope this is helpful.
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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220
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05-22-2017, 12:12 AM
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Thanks for the info, Alan.
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