While I'm not the most skilled mechanic, like many of us, I grew up on an old run down farm and did my own "fix'en" on my dirt bikes, cars & guns.

I'm wondering if I can do it myself? I have to admit, I've never been comfortable mucking with the internals of a S&W revolver. But a barrel change....how hard could it be?! It's the fine, small stuff that worries me.

Patient(or victim ) - a beater M10-6 just picked up off GB, so it's a pinned heavy 4 inch barrel. I have a 2 inch barrel & guide rode, that I would like to put on. Then it will go off to a smith for a tune up and DAO conversion.

Any special tools required? Is there a K frame block for vises? Any "must have" gun smithing reference guides anyone recommends for this?

Guidance, wisdom, warnings.................bring em.

Well , one guy told me , it was kind of like changing out light bulbs . Said he just used a couple of " pipe wrenches " . Said it left a lot of teeth marks but didn't bother him any as he didn't plan on selling them anyway . I would seriously refrain from that practice .
It's easier to spring the frame than many think . DON'T just shove a stick through the cylinder well in the frame and start cranking on the barrel . Barrel change requires setting the barrel to cylinder gap and several other items on the checklist . I'm not a gunsmith but know that it can be done easily , with the proper tools and knowledge .

Weeeelllllll... if you're going to send it out ANYWAY... might as well have a pro do the barrel swap, and set it at the right B/C gap, and set the pin (if pinned), and not leave pipe marks on the cylinder window, and, and, etc.

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NICK-SWCA-NRA BENEFACTOR LIFE

Changing a barrel is not like unthreading a rotted water pipe and putting in a new piece!

I highly doubt that a different barrel will just magically line up perfectly and that the B/C Gap would be perfect. Aside from making (or buying) a barrel wrench, you will have to take down the barrel's shoulder to make it fit properly. Then you will have to purchase forcing cone cutters & reamers to dress it to proper dimension and if you were extremely careful and didn't mar anything you might get away without a refinish (assuming the finish of the new barrel matches the guns finish).

I've gotten pretty good with Smith's over the years but personally I'd sell what you don't want and just buy what you do want - it's less expensive in the long run and you won't be chancing the very good possibility of bending or cracking the Frame. If that happens - it's all a moot point!

Changing a barrel isn't really a job for a novice. I had one changed by a gunsmith a while back who let me watch the process. He had a "jig" which he fitted to the frame to support it and keep it from warping or twisting as he applied force to unscrew the barrel. He explained that without the "jig" the frame would likely twist and ruin my gun. I would not want to attempt barrel removal without the proper equipment.

OK, you guys convinced me. I might as well not even try it. Oh, did I tell you that Murphy has a full time job in my shop anyway, so what was I thinking!

Actually, I might forgo the 2 inch idea and just get it chopped to 3. I pulled both that 10-6 heavy barrel and a 10-5 regular barrel out of the safe this weekend and set them side by side. I then realized that the front of the frame is contoured just a bit different between the two. Never knew that! The two inch barrel I got is not a heavy, so that too will look awkward.

" How hard could it be ? " I've said that a time or two.....it usually ends up badly for me and well for the person I have to pay to fix what I've just made worse.... But I"m learning..." A man has got to know his limitations " .
Gary

It's pretty easy with the right tools and knowledge. I've done it lots of times. I also have a complete machine shop to do it with, and lots of experience.

But remember, you always pay for your education one way or another. Experience is what you get right after you need it.