Just picked up a new extractor rod for my 66-2. But when I installed it, seems that it's a bit too long. Got it stuck when I closed the cylinder. Took a couple minutes to get it opened back up, but it's obviously going to need an adjustment to the length. My question is which end do I grind down? Seems to me that the exposed, barrel end would make the most sense. But since I can't put any material back, I thought I'd ask people who would know. I compared the two standing side by side, and it could use about a sixteenth of an inch trimmed. Of course I don't plan on removing it all at once. I'd appreciate any insight that anyone could share on this, since I'd hate to mess this up.

You trim the exposed end. Use a fine file, then smooth and finish with a stone. The center rod needs to be short in normal position and flush or a tiny bit past the tube portion when the thumb piece is fully pressed or when you press the rounded end of it flush with the center of the extractor ratchet. The end of the center rod on the barrel end should be square or just a very tiny radius on it outside edge

You can keep the end pretty square by putting it in a drill and spinning it while you grind the end.

I'm only replacing the hollow extractor rod, because my pliers slipped on the knurling, the inner rod is still good. So I'm thinking that filing, as you've said, should put me where I need to be. Removing just enough material to be able to operate the latch freely, I hope I won't have to mess with anything else, since I'm just needing to replace the one part. Btw, I also picked up the proper tool to ensure this won't happen again.

Thanks, that sounds like a plan!

I apologize sir, the first time I read your post, I thought you were telling me how to fit the whole assembly. As if I were replacing a bent rod and mixing all new parts. After re-reading, I see you're telling me how I'll know how much to take off. I had thought of getting it close using the old rod as a guide. Either way as long as I don't over do it I should be okay. I just wasn't certain which end to remove material from, since the threads don't go all the way to the end. Thanks guys!

When you're doing your fitting, you need a flat piece of steel. If you press this flat piece of steel against the cylinder end of the center rod/pin (like you're releasing the cylinder from the frame), the end of the center rod/pin should stick out about 0.005 inches from the extractor rod.

Also buy or make an Extractor Rod Wrench.

Unfortunately, I should have done this earlier. But I just received the vice grip type, I think they're going to work out for me.

Please advise how you like vice grip extractor rod tool.

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SWCA 1932 SWHF 135

The vise grip tool works great, and since the ejector rod really isn't all that tight, it's got way more grip potential than you'd ever need. I chose it over the other types because of the no wrench needed approach. I know me pretty well, and I'd find the ejector rod clamp, then get sit down at the bench, only then to remember that I needed a wrench! The vise grip tool looks like it was made using a 6 inch pair of Chinese grips, with a block permanently glued into the jaws with something like JB weld. I would've preferred a tig weld, and that's exactly what'll happen if it ever breaks. But for the money I'd definitely recommend it.