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Old 06-22-2017, 01:09 PM
103 103 is offline
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Default Bobbing a stainless 64 hammer

I recently picked up a 64-2 with the intention of making it a carry gun. I was originally going to look for a factory bobbed hammer, but the action is so nice on this gun as is, that I would rather bob the one that came with it.

That said, I have never cut a stainless hammer (it is stainless and non flash-chrome, right?). Once I cut it, can I replicate the factory surface finish easily or not? If so, what would you recommend?

I ask this because the case colored ones are easy: just some cold blue and it is usually good enough.

And if you think I am retarded and should just find a factory bobbed hammer to fit, I am always open to criticism.

Thanks!
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:19 PM
Hapworth Hapworth is offline
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I recommend finding a factory bobbed replacement (they show up here and on eBay sometimes) and having it professionally fit to your revolver; then you can move back and forth between them as desired.

Alternately, get a second standard hammer and bob it.

To answer your question, no, your hammer is not stainless; it's carbon steel flash chromed. If you bob it, the best you'll be able to do to approximate the chrome finish is polish the carbon in the white and clean it regularly to avoid rusting.
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:24 PM
CA Escapee CA Escapee is offline
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I've got a 64-4, NY-1, with the factory bobbed hammer and it's flash chromed. Your 64 was probably made before mine, so if I had to guess yours is chromed also. Just for a couple of more data points, I've looked at my 67-nothing, and a 65-5 also and they're chromed. Those hammers look more white-ish or aluminum color compared to the frames.

One flyer in the data is my 65-5 LS. It does show the case hardening heat treating colors on its hammer.

I agree with Hapworth, get a second hammer and bob it; save the original.

Bill

Last edited by CA Escapee; 06-22-2017 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 06-22-2017, 01:27 PM
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IMO,don't bob the original hammer.Buy another hammer and bob it after trying it out to experience the fit and fit it if needed.A used hammer should.nt be that hard to come by.

If you ever decide to sell the revolver it will sell quicker with the original unbobbed hammer.
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Old 06-22-2017, 07:45 PM
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StakeOut & Hapworth gave excellent advise and I was going to suggest the same but they beat me to the punch. Don't cut up you original Factory Hammer because there could come a day that you want to go back to Factory.

Get another new old stock hammer and bob that one. It's not very difficult and it can be done with simple hand tools. A Dremel Mototool is quite helpful but not a necessity.
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Old 06-22-2017, 08:20 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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I was called on over the years to bob a few stainless S&W revolver hammers and after shortening them I'd send them out to be stripped and re-plated with hard chrome.

A re-plate is denser and better then the factory plate and doesn't rust as easily, making it even better.
I also smoothed and rounded triggers and had them also stripped and plated.

Many of the top platers offer reduced pricing for small parts.
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Old 06-24-2017, 09:53 AM
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Thanks for all the advice! The gentleman who sold me the 64 saw this thread and offered me a factory bobbed hammer for a very fair price!
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Old 06-24-2017, 10:11 AM
geeollie geeollie is offline
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That worked out great.

And now you have a spare hammer nose.

Last edited by geeollie; 06-24-2017 at 10:12 AM.
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