I've got a brand new 625-8 .45ACP revolver.

I'm got M-Pro7 for the cleaner and the oil.

I'm going to be tearing the gun apart to fully clean it. i.e. breaking down the cylinder/extractor rod, removing side plate, pulling hammer and trigger, removing springs, hand, etc.

I'm doing a full on clean with M-Pro7 cleaner. Then will oil it up.

Does anyone know of a good video or a website with teardown pictures showing where and what areas to apply the M-Pro 7 oil?

Wouldn't mind if there was a pic with arrows showing the locations of where to put oil. Or videos showing what spots to oil the gun at. I know you don't want too much oil.

Thanks

From your post it is obvious that you have little to no experience with the guts of a S&W pistol. Breaking down the extractor rod and removing the hand and hand spring are rather advanced procedures.

I'd suggest that you remove the side plate, hit the guts with brake cleaner and apply as much lube as you want. Blow out the excess with compressed air and call it good. Clean the barrel and chambers as usual. Place a drop of oil on moving parts and blow off the excess. Take it to the range and enjoy.

It's common on this sub-forum for people to request help reassembling pistols handguns that they have disassembled past their skill level. Although we are happy to help, the possibility for the home gunsmith to do irreparable damage is real.

There's lots of videos on this. I'd watch all I could find if it were mine. That way you won't miss anything. Most S&W revolvers are very similar, so it should be easy. I use a small brush, similar to a nail polish brush to even out any oil, since most guns don't like lots of oil in any one spot. The brush helps spread it out. Probably could use a Q tip or similar. Only thing I'd caution about, is losing small parts. Those springs can really fly. And, on mine at least, the tiny spring that holds the tension on the hand was a challenge. I'd recommend leaving the trigger complete, with the hand attached. You can still take it out and clean, oil, just leave those two pieces attached. Get to know your crane assembly, since it needs to be cleaned regularly. And be sure to use the hollow ground screwdrivers, it'll save those screw heads.

I've already got the gun stripped. Other than the piece on the end of the barrel that is pinned in.

I was hoping for a photo that had arrows pointing to all of the places you are supposed to put some oil. As I know you don't want to put too much, and you don't put oil everywhere.

I'll see if I can find some videos that show all the points of where the oil goes. But it's hard to find a video. As some use a brush and just brush oil everywhere.

I have a question for you. Are you thinking you have a lot to gain by this procedure or do you think that S&W may not have properly lubed the this gun already?

I owned at one time the gun you have now, I now have it in a 625-4 5" model. I might just spend some time shooting it the way it came and then when you have a good feel for it and know if you want to enhance anything as far as trigger or action that is when you do your tear down. I am fine with oil on some moving parts that I frequently access and clean but internally I have been using this product on my revolvers and semi's: MS100 - Larry's Guns Inc.

Also by running the revolver for while the way it is, when you open it up you will see some wear patterns and have a better idea what is going on and what areas by the 'polishing' are contact or concern parts that may need special attention. Someone mentioned using Q-tips, well I suggest the swabs that are used for digital camera sensors. Q-tips for me have tendency to leave behind a fiber or two in all the wrong places if not careful.
Feel free to PM me if I can offer any additional info, this gun reacts nicely to spring changes also and minor polishing of a few component areas.
Take care
Karl

Brand new guns are supposed to be cleaned.

But I'm wanting to do a full strip down and clean so I can do a full cleaning and then oil it with my oil. I don't know what oil the factory is using. But I figured tearing it all down and doing a good cleaning and oiling would be worth it.

Hi Branden:

When you acquire a new gun, I would only field strip it and clean the barrel, lightly run a patch with a few drops of Mrpo7 and a drop of oil on the surfaces that rub against each other. After you are done at the range, if you so desire, you can strip the gun completely but really not necessary. I would purchase The Armorer's course on the Smith & Wesson Revolver or Semi-auto by American Gunsmithing Institute. They are all up to date and will detail the complete take down and assembly with the areas for oiling the parts. Ken Brooks, master gunsmith with AGI, is extremely knowledgeable and guides you on each part and where they are placed or taken apart. Bob Dunlap, Master Gunsmith, is still instructing on the videos, but Ken took over the disassemble and assembly of the firearms. Bob is up there in age and is leaning on Ken for the courses. They both have a successful business in Oregon and their turn around for repair is about four months. AGI and Gun Club of American are the best when it comes to understand the design, function and repair of the firearms. I know you will not be disappointed with the armorer courses.

Nick

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NRA Instructor\GCA Gunsmith

Absolutely correct. On pages 31-33 of your owner's manual it explains how to clean and lube it prior to use. It also specifically states how far you should disassemble your revolver to do so.

You have read your owner's manual, haven't you?

It's your gun; do what you want. We will be here to help you reassemble it when it is time.

You won't find any oil underneath your sideplate.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Well, now that we've heard from the experts. It's your gun, do what you want, but me...I lubricate and inspect any, and all moving parts in ANY assembly. Especially when it comes from a place that has known quality control issues. Also inspect for burrs, defects etc...As far as lubricant goes, most people recommend dry lubricant of whatever brand is their favorite, and everything else is junk. Once again, to me... I completely disassemble and completely clean it often. I don't worry about how a wet lubricant collects particles, because I'll be cleaning it later. Yep, top to bottom, inside and out. Marine corps drill instructor approved.. If my life, and those around me depend on the function of this firearm, it's the minimum that I can do. ymmv.

I'm using M-Pro 7 cleaner and oil. I read that with that oil, you can set the gun down for a year. And it still will be lubed like day one.

Brendon I'm not at all trying to challenge your dedication to do what you want to do but after reading your description of what you are doing and which products you are using you may be one product short of correct as I see it.
The cleaner I understand to clean the barrel and cylinder chamber bores. The application of the M-Pro Oil I then agree to permeate and protect these surfaces too as well as any other external metal surfaces.

However the way I see it is that the proper lubricant for the internal contact components of a revolver is more likely the M-Pro Synthetic Grease, not the oil? With the effort you are putting forth maybe contacting M-Pro for their suggestion might make sense to you, and of course I can be wrong about this and if so I stand corrected As Armorer951 has mentioned, you won't find oil under that sideplate if you remove it.

Once again, enjoy the new revolver, they are my favorites!
Karl

My choice for the inside of a revolver is Rig #2 Oil or Remoil. These two are a good cleaner, lube and rust inhibitor for most normal situations. The reason I keep preaching about them is because they are both THIN and will NOT attract dust, grime and powder residue because they mostly dry soon after application leaving protectants and lubrication behind to do their job.

They are NOT the best cleaning solvents but are more than adequate to clean a new gun. You will not have to worry about removing solvent that you used for cleaning if you use one of these two as you will want to leave some on the metal components anyway.

The Rig #2 will NOT harm any guns finish, Nickel, Bluing, Parkerizing, rubber, plastic, polymer, wood, synthetic, etc. It has been my go-to for 35+ years and it has never let me down. A 4.5 ounce can from MidwayUSA is under $5 bucks and it doesn't smell bad either. When the carrier evaporates it leaves behind a very slight wax coating that aids to protect.

I am not one who likes heavy oils or grease on the inside of a revolver. Yes, I do use Rig +P Grease on Auto rails and grooves and Military Grease on an M1 Garand, but don't like putting grease or thicker Oils inside a Revolver that does not get disassembled often.

I've got the AGI dvd's. Actually I had gotten both. I had first gotten the Armorers course. But they used older revolvers as I wanted a video with the newer hammer with lock.

Then got the basic AGI dissasembly/reassembly and they used the older revolver. But I guess edited in or something a section showing a newer revolver.

I had watched some Youtube videos of the owner of MidwayUSA. And he drops out a lot of oil. Probably too much after researching more on it.

From my research, it appears it's NOT recommend to put grease inside the action.

Inside mine, it was pretty much dry. Looks like there was some type of oil around the posts and under the slide for the thumbpiece. Also noticed it looks kind of wetlike on the base of the frame after I took all the guts out. But defenantly it wasn't oiled up like I've seem some people do. I had watched a video of the owner of MidwayUSA and he put several drops of oil on the posts in the revolver.

So, I'm going to do more research. But I'll probably at least put some oil on a q-tip. And rub that q-tip around the posts and on the bottom of the slide piece that the thumbpiece screws onto.

What is it the factory uses? Mine was pretty dry. But I could tell there was some wetness like around the posts and under the slide that the thumbpiece screws onto.

I had recently watched a video from the owner of MidwayUSA where he put several drops of oil on the posts, etc. Now looking at mine, there clearly wasn't near that much oil used at the factory. Unless the factory used a type of lube that mostly evaporates or something.

Dental floss is really useful when you need a third hand getting that spring back in place. You'll know what I mean when you get to that part.

Is it okay to rinse these parts and let them dry? Mine is stainless steel.

I've got the M-Pro 7 cleaner that I'm going to spray the parts and revolver down with to clean it. But thought of afterwards soaking the parts in water to make sure all the cleaner is removed. This just because I have it all the way tore apart.

As it's my understanding the M-Pro 7 cleaner isn't a solvent that evaporates like brake cleaner or something. And so thought of soaking the parts afterwards in water and then letting them dry before I put them back together. I had contacted M-Pro 7 and asked if their cleaner fully evaporates as I wouldn't be able to get a rag to every nook and cranny to wipe all of it up since there are springs and lots of little parts, but never heard back.

I thought of this after watching some videos of people spraying their revolver and inside parts with Simple Green, and then dunking the parts in a bucket of water.

Water is perfect for this. Adding 5% salt will make it close to sea water.

Sure, add water. No chance of rust

A good way to oil the gun is to use RemOil. It's a very thing oil and you can by the spray can. You don't even have to take the side plate off, just spray it in. Wipe off the extra.

Since you already took you gun apart a light coating of oil will not hurt it.

I'm a competitive shooter and put thousands of round through my revolvers. I clean them after every match with M-Pro 7.

I don't take the cylinder apart. Just a drop of oil on the ejector rod and spin it. The oil will get to where it is needed.

I would NOT use Simple Green or ANY water based chemicals inside a gun! Even Stainless Steel rusts - I have seen rust inside quite a few Stainless guns including Factory fresh out of the box ones (my own brand new in 1994 Chief's Special had some light surface rust inside before I even shot it). Under the grips and inside is where they will tend to start the rust process.

I think I'll get a small brush. Like those makeup brushes. Put some oil on that. And brush oil around the posts. Like the posts that the trigger and hammer rotate on. Brush some oil under the trigger spring slide. And put some oil under the slide for the thumb release.

I've got a set of Wolff springs. I think the stock spring is an 18. So I think I'll put the 15 Wolff spring in to try out. From reading around looks like people were getting light trigger hits with less than 14. So I'll probably just go with the 15 and see how that goes.

Use brake cleaner to get rid of the m pro cleaner if that's what you're looking to accomplish. That brake cleaner will dry up real nice, and leave the surface ready for oil.

Chlorinated or Non-Chlorinated?

Non chlorinated. That other stuff is bad news.

This whole thread beginning with the original post makes me ill. There is no easier and better way to bugger up a fine revolver (or any complicated mechanical device) than for a new owner to take it apart beyond the manufacturer's recommendation.

I agree, it is your revolver, do what you want, and good luck.

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Loving retirement!

Brendon,
Don't use water to clean with.
RemOil is good , used sparingly it has not gone gummy in my guns. I find it best to use a cleaner to clean and a oil to lube with. A CLP is ok but they are trying to do three things at once and have limitations .
RemOil has a light mineral oil base with micro Teflon particles in it, the oil will dissipate over time leaving a thin dry film of lubricating Teflon.
I have had CLP's like Shooter's Choice and Break Free gum the action of several guns. I now clean with a spray cleaner and lube with spray RemOil....I don't disassemble unless absolutely needed, I use the plastic tube and spray into the openings , drying and draining well for both the clean and then the lube. A shot of compressed air works well for this . Grips removed of course .
Automotive carburetor spray cleaner is also excellent for action cleaning.
DA revolvers don't benefit from a lot of total tear downs...it can do more harm than good over time .
I remove the side plate only when necessary...like the time the CLP gummed up . I remove the cylinder if I want easier access to the chambers for a good brushing . The spray cleaning and spray lubing, works well for the action .
The bore and chambers need a rod, brush , patch and a proper bore solvent for cleaning, after every range trip.
Don't overthink or obsess over the gun cleaning and lubrication thing, any part that moves, rubs against another part or turns ...lube it with RemOil , keep the exterior wiped down , the bore and chambers clean,
You will be good to go.
Gary

Just spray the parts with oil and wipe it all off or just wipe everything down with a oil coated rag or paper towel. The residual oil left will be sufficient. I wouldn't do this until it has been shot some. Once it has been shot you will start to see wear patterns where oil might help.

Don't rinse off your gun. I'm not sure where this idea came from but that is a bad idea. There is nothing to be gained. These revolvers are pretty simple and could go for thousands of rounds with any lubricant. There is no need to get rid of all the factory lube.

You are putting way too much thought into this. Just go shoot the gun.

I've got multiple videos detailing how to take each thing off and then put each thing back into place. Yeah you've got to watch what you're doing.

It's not something I'm uncomfortable with as I've worked on cars for years taking things apart and rebuilding them i.e. rebuilding carburetors and throttle bodies. I just recently took a cars A/C compressor apart and rebuilt it.

Taking a revolver apart with detailed instructions is a walk in the park. Also, I make an effort to get the correct tools. I know working on cars people try to get around using the correct tool and risk tearing things up or shredding o-rings for example.

Thanks. I'm not going to be tearing this thing apart and putting it back together over and over again. It's a brand new gun from the dealer, and I just wanted to do an initial tear down, clean, and put back together. Just a one and done kind of thing.

The reason why I was asking, is because I only planned on taking the side cover off and do this cleaning once. So wanted to get it right the first time. But the other reason I decided to do it is because I had planned on replacing the extractor from blue to SS, put in a different thumb piece, and put in a different pound trigger spring. So figured I'd just go ahead and do a tear down and clean.

I'll be the voice of dissent and say you absolutely should take ANY new to you revolver apart, PROVIDED you have at least some mechanical aptitude. It's not difficult to do right.

Case in point, I just bought a new 686. The inside was bone dry and absolutely FILLED with metal dust and grit that I had to clean out. I've been dry firing it a bit and after putting some rounds down range, I'll pull it apart again to check for any more grit and see how things are wearing and re-lube. On a used revolver you never know what a previous owner might have done to it...

When you say "new". Was that new to you but used, or brand new from a dealer?

What all are you lubing in the action? Some here are saying no lube at all. But I don't think that is right. I know you'd want to keep the oil at a minimum as you don't want to attract dust, etc.

I had watched some videos from the owner of MidwayUSA, and he dumps lots of oil on these things. When I saw it, I figured oil would have to be dripping out of the thing afterwards.

When I buy a used pistol, I detail strip it as far as I feel it needs to be detail stripped, then I clean the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green and water, about a 1 part simple green to 20 parts distilled water. After cleaning, I rinse with distilled water, dry with towels, compressed air and heat (or denatured alcohol if there are places I can't get into), lube the gun, reassemble, then use rust protection on the non-lubricated parts.

Water and simple green were fine with all the blued pistols I've used it on, as long as you rinse and dry afterwards there is no problem with rust. I got the idea from the AGI's S&W Gunsmithing Course videos, so don't let anyone tell you you shouldn't use it.

New guns I field strip, clean and lube. Unless I want to do more.

I use lithium grease on the rebound slide and cylinder release. The rest I lightly oil with a CLP.

That is the video where I saw that at. I figured if they're using that, then it couldn't be ruining the gun. Now I could maybe see a problem if you didn't strip the gun first, and didn't properly dry it off before you put it back together. i.e. just took the gun and dunked it in the stuff whole.

I've also been reading of some using break cleaner to clean the gun parts. Seems mixed on that. But would think it shouldn't be a problem if you strip the gun, only do it on metal parts, and relube afterwards.

Brand spanking brand new fresh from the factory.

I'm using Ballistol as a light lube to start out with. I may keep it or switch to my favorite, FP10. I am not a fan of grease.


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That is called a mistake. When it comes to S&W revolvers Larry Potterfield mostly gets it wrong.
The rebound spring has NOTHING to do with hammer fall and whether or not you get light hits. Try a 14 lb spring with the OE mainspring.
One thing you should do is measure the length of the firing pin. You want one .492" or longer. There are a lot of S&W's that were sent out with shorter ones. If you have one that measures less than .492" replace it. New ones currently seem to all be .492" - .495".

That's a shame because I really have liked the videos he has made. Very well produced and I like how he explains things. Also good camera angles as well.

One thing is I wish Smith and Wesson had exploded diagrams for all of their revolvers. You can only find those diagrams for their older revolvers.

Makes it easier to see where all the parts fit together. And also makes it easier to identify a specific part if you need to order a specific spring or something for example.

Brownells and Numrich both have schematics for S&W revolvers.

You are correct. But as said those are only for the older revolvers. Smith and Wesson said they quit putting out parts schematics because their parts change and they don't want people using them and get the wrong parts. Makes no sense when there are older schematics floating around that people are using for reference for the newer guns.

If you (OP) are interested in learning more about S&W revolvers, I would suggest Jerry Kuhnhausen's 5th Edition "The S&W Revolvers, A Shop Manual"
A lot of very detailed, correct information, including some very good illustrations, and many of the "older" schematics.

The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual 5th Edition Book by - MPN: SWR-1/5

If you are looking for a cleaner for internals that leaves no oily residue try Tetra Cleaner and Light Lubricant spray, CRC HD Silicone Spray, or Liquid Wrench Dry Lube spray. These are not traditional, oil based, liquid gun cleaning solvents, per se, but are useful for loosening and removing carbon build up, shooting debris, and old lubricants......and they leave very little residue behind, once the carrier evaporates. Follow all label directions and warnings.

FTI, Inc. - Tetra Gun Care Products

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer