So I have never owned much less carried a blued gun... but in the near future I might be trading into a really nice blued 3" k frame. And I know they require more tlc than my stainless friends... I know that regularly wiping it down with oiled cloth and using a quality leather full shield holster are the best first steps

With all that said, a couple questions (any other comments and wisdom much appreciated)

1. What is the best oil/product for blued guns that are regularly carried (anything specific to blued Guns)

2. Leather or kydex? I currently carry my 640 in leather at 1 o'clock

3. What if I wanna carry with some hip grips? (my absolute favorite carry method with the 640) or is this a no-no?

4. If/when the inevitable happens, was the best way to deal with surface rust on a blued gun?

5. Any other sage advice?

Thanks all,
-Ryan

I carried a blue S&W model 10 on duty, in a leather holster exposed to all sorts of NYC foul weather. At the end of the day I wiped it all down with an oil impregnated cloth and put it on a clean rag in my locker. Once a month, I did a detail clean where I cleaned the charge holes in the cylinder and the barrel. Unless you are exposing it to salt water spray, of chemicals that should about do it. If rust does develop some have said to soak it in Kroil oil for a while and than rub it off.

Not that many years ago every LEO in America carried blued guns - many for the span of their careers. Most did just fine although they might have lost some bluing.

Apollo99 basically said what I was going to. At the end of the day, just wipe it down and the next day before holstering it make sure it has no oil on the outside so it's not slippery.

Once again, Rig #2 or Remoil is WELL suited for this task as the carrier basically evaporates leaving protection behind but not a bunch of oily mess.

My first CCW was a 2" round butt M10 in blue and I never had any rust on it after carrying it for years before switching to my M60-7.

Call me a liar if you like, but here's the truth -- I have carried guns for many years now, most of them blued, and although some show bluing wear not a one has ever had a speck of rust. How can this be?

I have a rag with CLP on it that I keep in a Ziploc bag. Every day when I come home I pull out my carry gun and give it a ten-second wipe-down with the oily rag. That's it.

__________________
Pisgah

I agree with those who said to just wipe the gun down with an oily rag at the end of the day. Several years ago when I worked as an armed guard I carried a blued S&W Model 10 and that's what I did. I never had a rust problem, even when working in very hot, humid conditions that left me soaked to the skin with sweat.

As for your other questions...

1. I used BreakFree CLP. Never had an issue with it. As long as you use a good quality oil, the specific brand isn't all that important, imo.

2. I've never used kydex holsters, but I think they are probably better at protecting the gun from body sweat/humidity than leather. Leather can actually trap moisture. Smooth-side out tends to be more moisture-resistant than rough-side out. Horsehide holsters are generally more moisture-resistant than cowhide. However, one thing to keep in mind is that many leather holster makers apply a synthetic finish for added protection. I like the comfort of leather, and I've used a leather IWB holster, mostly a rough-side out model, for the last 6 years or so and have never had a problem with corrosion (ok, my guns have been stainless steel, but they're not exactly rust-"proof"). The key is to avoid storing your gun in the leather holster. I carry my gun pretty much all day, but when I go to bed I take the gun out of the leather holster and stick it in a nylon pocket holster (after wiping the gun down, of course). This lets the leather holster breathe and release whatever moisture it might've absorbed over the course of the day. Even better would be to have two identical leather holsters and alternate every other day, giving each holster a full day to air out, but I wouldn't consider that necessary. Another trick is to periodically apply wax to the smooth parts of the holster (never apply to rough-out leather), which adds further protection; I like Kiwi Neutral Paste Wax. With all that said, though, wiping the gun down at the end of the day with an oily rag will go a long way towards protecting your gun regardless of what material your holster is made from. One thing to note is that whatever holster you choose, you're going to experience some finish wear, so be prepared for that.

3. Hip Grips are a personal choice. The same gun care guidelines would apply. Personally, I don't like Hip Grips because I prefer the security of a holster that also covers the trigger, not out of some concern for rust prevention. Also, based on my limited experience (I have experimented with Hip Grips), I think a K-frame may be too big for Hip Grips to be used effectively. YMMV.

4. I'm not that knowledgeable about rust removal from a blued gun, so I'll leave that advice to others.

5. The only other advice I can think of to offer is to always wear an undershirt/underwear between your gun and your body. It will go a long way towards minimizing corrosion as well as making it more comfortable to carry.

There's already good advice and info here, but as a child of blue steel and walnut I'll add my experience.

I carried three S&W Blued revolvers for years, one in a duty holster exposed to all weather, one in a nylon belly-band holster against my undershirt which especially during hot weather exposed the bluing to excessive daily perspiration, and one in an ankle holster, talk about grit.

First and foremost, I believe it all begins with a "quality" factory bluing. I wiped all three down with a clean rag using Hoppes #9 Gun Oil daily. Nothing time consuming, just a quick wipe off of the exterior. On my days off, a more thorough wipe down. Once a month, or whenever shot, a complete cleaning inside and out. A little holster wear, a little lost bluing, but never a speck of rust.

Generation Polymer doesn't realize how easy they have it today maintenance-wise. LOL

I carried a Model 10, then a Model 15 for years as a uniformed cop. I used a light coat of car wax then wiped the gun down daily w/a silicone cloth and never had a rust problem. Our sergeants inspected our issued weapons at least monthly so stayng ahead of rust was a priority.

__________________
Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

Ballistol works for the gun and the holster.

Since we are talking about wiping down working CCW guns with oil, I figured I'd mention something that is obvious to many of us but may not be realized by some Newbies.

When wiping down a CCW never get oil inside the Cylinder's Charge Holes as you don't want to get oil on primers. Primers do NOT play well with oil and it could cause them to fail. This is just one more reason to use a product that the carrier evaporates so the gun is not "wet".

Also.... I would NOT wipe down Leather Holsters with ANY oil as it will soften the Leather. IMO you want a well fitted STIFF holster for the best retention and longevity. The only thing I ever apply to Leather holsters is a tiny amount of Kiwi Shoe polish once a year or when needed. Buff off very well and it will keep your rig looking new. It will not soften the Leather like oil will. Soft Leather is NOT good for carrying guns - that is why Kydex became so popular.

Groo here
Many at the S.O. would use clear wax to coat the outside.
Now I would use something like frog lube [similar].
The only problem with wax is when you reblue the gun.
You must tell the person doing it as the gun will need to be stripped
[ boiled] of all the wax or the blue will be spotty.
PS the wax started because oil will stain your shirts.