Hey Team

I've used quite a few cleaning and maintenance products over the years and I've always heard good things about Renaissance Wax. Amazon prime day got the best of me so I ordered a container to see what the fuss is all about.

WOW. I've only done some of my blued guns and they look fantastic. The 14-6 looks great but nothing compares to the 29's and the pre 27. Taking pictures of blued guns is difficult without a photo box (which I'm building this weekend) Camera used is my Galaxy Edge, please forgive the amateur pictures. I recommend this product to anyone looking for a reliable and safe way to preserve the finishes and grips on their firearms.

Stuff's great isn't it? Make it look like a spanked baby's ...

Nice.

I finally put together an Amazon order and my first container of Renaissance Wax is on the way. For stainless, I've read to use Mother's Mag Wheel Polish first and then the wax after.

Bigwheelzip, I would go light with the mother's and I wouldn't use it on bead blasted finishes. I just waxed my 696 and only wiped dry the stainless before applying the Renwax. The high polish appeals to some, but I usually don't go that route unless the finish is really really rough.

SVT28

Thanks. I'll try just the wax first. I'm not going for high polish, just the original look when they were new.

Now that I think of it, I should have ordered curators gloves to keep the fingerprints off after I'm done.

A couple coats of wax will keep fingerprints off.It works well on rifle and shotgun stocks too.It looks great on pistol grips,but hang on tight when you shoot them ;-)

I got a can of RenWax and I really like the results. It does outstanding on SS and very good for blued also. If you have all oil removed from the gun before using RenWax then finger prints will be kept down to a minimum. You don't want to put it on heavy, just rub your fingertip in the can then rub it on the gun. I find the lighter applications show less fingerprints. One little can will last a very long time because of just using a film of the stuff on your fingertip.
I have never used Johnsons and I would like to know how it compares. I heard Johnsons really shows fingerprints .

Ren Wax works great on a lot of wood surfaces and a little bit goes a LOOOOOONG way. My wife turned me onto this through her jewelry making.

For those who would prefer to pay less, one can buy a large can (probably a lifetime supply) of Johnson's Paste Wax at your local supermarket/hardware/big box store for much less, and it works just as well. Some use car wax.

What's the process for applying Renaissance Wax? Cleaning, degreasing before application?

Surface should be clean and oil free.They also sell a cleaning product called "Pre Lim" or something close,Never used it but I've read good things.

I got a water based cleaner/degreaser called MC 25, from the same company (Mil-Comm) that makes my slide lube (TW 25B). Works great.

I bought the grips from a member, removed the original finish, and applied 20 coats of tung oil. Then put two coats of Renn wax. Man they look good. Well worth the money!

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I know a forum member here that swears by that stuff, gotta get some one day.

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Dave Ramsey Cultist

RenWax is a great way to protect revolvers. Just needs to be used properly and not in excess.

If I'm not shooting my guns regularly, I will put a thin coat of wax on them and let it dry. Then I put them in a silicone sock and inside an AceCase rug for safe storage. When the times comes to shoot, just buff the wax off and have fun. A micro layer still remains.

For my carry gun, the internals and inside the frame window get lubed with Slip2000 EWL30. The outside gets a coat of RenWax which is allowed to dry and then buffed off with a microfiber cloth. The micro layer that remains gives good protection for duty use. I like the wax because it's less messy than a CLP and better with protecting against acidic finger prints. Plus, I can use it on my wood grips too.

Just don't put a heavy layer on your revolvers or fail to buff the initial application off before shooting. If you don't, the gun will get hot while firing and the wax will melt and flow.

I actually bought Ren-wax for guns but wound up using it 99% of the time on non-gun items around the home, shop, garage. Works very well, just too much work (to me) to keep removing (when cleaning) and then having to thoroughly dry gun and re-wax. If I did have wall-hangars, Ren-wax IS what I'd use.

BTW the can lasts forever!

I usually use simi chrome polish on my nickel guns to bring back the luster. Then I used the used rags with the simi chrome polish to bring back the bluing on the blued guns. I just tried FLITZ polish on my stainless ruger revolver. She looks really purdy. I have a can of the ren wax too I'll try soon.

Who made that grip for the 38 spc full underlug, is that a 586? Grips looks real good.

And the stocks on the top gun are?????

Mystery maker on the grips! This set was in a wood clamshell case at a small gun store in northern AZ. They fit the 14-6 round butt K frame very well and feel excellent in the mitts. They also provide a good balance with the full lug 6 inch barrel. $10 was the cost.

SVT28