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  #1  
Old 07-22-2017, 02:30 PM
BLACKHAWKNJ BLACKHAWKNJ is offline
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Default How serious is a cracked forcing cone ?

A posting from a board member on his chagrin at finding a crack in the forcing cone of his newly purchased used S&W M-66 prompts me to ask how serious that really is ?
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Old 07-22-2017, 02:34 PM
silversnake silversnake is offline
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How serious is a cracked forcing cone ? How serious is a cracked forcing cone ? How serious is a cracked forcing cone ? How serious is a cracked forcing cone ? How serious is a cracked forcing cone ?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKHAWKNJ View Post
A posting from a board member on his chagrin at finding a crack in the forcing cone of his newly purchased used S&W M-66 prompts me to ask how serious that really is ?
You need a new barrel. Which may or may not be easy to find for the older guns and isn't trivial to install.
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Old 07-22-2017, 02:46 PM
Protocall_Design Protocall_Design is offline
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Once the forcing cone cracks, all accuracy goes out the window. Continued shooting will make the crack bigger, and often crack the frame as well. Also, it will bend the forcing cone down in the cracked area and can bind up the crane so it is hard to open or close.

A new barrel is the only remedy. This only happens on K frames (that I have seen).
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Old 07-22-2017, 03:15 PM
apollo99 apollo99 is offline
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It can range from, "Oh wow now I really messed up the barrel and the frame"-to-a disaster with pieces flying. A new barrel is a must.
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Old 07-22-2017, 03:17 PM
Old_Cop Old_Cop is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Collects View Post
Stop shooting the gun with the cracked forcing cone, until it has been repaired.
This is the correct answer, why chance it.
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Old 07-22-2017, 03:17 PM
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Muss Muggins Muss Muggins is offline
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A posting from a board member on his chagrin at finding a crack in the forcing cone of his newly purchased used S&W M-66 prompts me to ask how serious that really is ?
It's a problem . . .
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Old 07-22-2017, 04:17 PM
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Default A K-22 Cylinder question

I don't know much about K-22 cylinder designs. What changes were made from the start of model numbering onward? Another way to ask the question is that if I were looking for a replacement cylinder for a ca. 1958-59 K-22, what cylinders (earlier or later) would fit without modification? I have found an otherwise pretty good early K-22 M17 cheap but with a scarred-up cylinder I would like to replace. And where would be a likely place to find one?
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Old 07-22-2017, 04:20 PM
ontargetagain ontargetagain is offline
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Consider it as a 'cracked barrel' because it is part of the barrel. Cracks never get smaller
Karl
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Old 07-22-2017, 04:29 PM
Protocall_Design Protocall_Design is offline
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Originally Posted by DWalt View Post
I don't know much about K-22 cylinder designs. What changes were made from the start of model numbering onward? Another way to ask the question is that if I were looking for a replacement cylinder for a ca. 1958-59 K-22, what cylinders (earlier or later) would fit without modification? I have found an otherwise pretty good early K-22 M17 cheap but with a scarred-up cylinder I would like to replace. And where would be a likely place to find one?
K-22s don't crack, just K-38s. The 22 has a very thick wall forcing cone. The K38 is thin wall, especially at the bottom where there's a flat cut to clear the crane. They always crack at the bottom.
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Old 07-22-2017, 04:36 PM
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If the gun were a car it would be like having a crack in the radiator ... it needs to be fixed before driving very far or more damage will be done...fixing a cracked or distorted frame .
It will only get worse, I'm sorry this is not what you wanted to hear, but you have learned what to look for come next used gun purchase .
Model 66's that were fed a lot of magnum 125 grain JHP factory loads usually had this problem.
Gary

Last edited by gwpercle; 07-22-2017 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 07-22-2017, 06:09 PM
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On a scale of 1 to 10 it's probably a 9. The gun will still shoot but you definitely shouldn't be shooting it unless necessary.
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Old 07-22-2017, 08:09 PM
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Serious as a heart attack, new barrel time.
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Old 07-22-2017, 08:25 PM
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The two most difficult and critical revolver smith jobs are replacing a barrel and fitting a new cylinder.

Both require the services of a Master pistolsmith who also has the expensive tooling needed.

Cylinders are not "right" just because you can get it to snap into the frame.
Buying a replacement cylinder and expecting it to just fit correctly is unlikely.

Search for replacement cylinders on ebay, Gunbroker.com, and by placing Wanted ads on the gun forum Classified sections.

If you find a good usable cylinder, be smart, unless you're a qualified pistolsmith send it to someone like Frank Glenn in Arizona.

Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ

A major danger of a cracked forcing cone, in addition to the further damage to the frame as above, often a cone section will break off, spitting a large chunk of shrapnel into yourself or an unfortunate bystander.

REPLACE THE BARREL, and STOP SHOOTING IT until you do.
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Old 07-22-2017, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKHAWKNJ View Post
A posting from a board member on his chagrin at finding a crack in the forcing cone of his newly purchased used S&W M-66 prompts me to ask how serious that really is ?
This is why having in-depth mechanical knowledge of revolvers is so important. Especially when most revolvers are "used".

You never know how someone treated it prior to you, and it doesn't take that many overpressure rounds to ruin parts. Factor in that a gun could still look brand new externally even after 100s and 100s of rounds. So you just can't expect everything is like new.

You can't rely on sellers to make sure you get a sound revolver either. I remember a certain refinished gun with a cracked forcing cone trying to be pawned off on someone from a well respected internet dealer. Just goes to show how much the so called "reputable" dealers know.
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