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Old 07-29-2017, 01:52 PM
JohnY516 JohnY516 is offline
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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Default 586 cylinder gap.

Hey. Just got a 586 L-comp. I had to send it in when I first got it because the ejector rod was slightly bent and the trigger was not what I believed a performance center trigger should feel like. S&W's customer service was great and they sent it back with a straight rod and much better trigger.

So onto my question. Today I was measuring the cylinder gap and i'm getting 0.010. I believe this is within s&w's spec but figured I would check here to see if its an acceptable gap or not. The only other smith revolver I have for reference is a model 69 who's gap is measuring 0.006.
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Old 07-29-2017, 02:24 PM
Toolguy Toolguy is online now
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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I think .012 is the S&W max now. I want mine in the .005 - .006 range.
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Old 07-29-2017, 02:51 PM
OldChief OldChief is online now
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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I do believe it's .040" ~ .010" with .006" being ideal.
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Old 07-29-2017, 03:37 PM
robertrwalsh robertrwalsh is offline
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If I remember correctly it USED to be 4-8, then went up to 10. I hadn't heard about it going to 12. For my money 6 is ideal, not too loose but not so right that it will jam up if it gets dirty.
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Old 07-29-2017, 07:50 PM
JohnY516 JohnY516 is offline
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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So do you guys think I should leave it? Should I send it back to be made a tighter gap? Is that something s&w even does?
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Old 07-29-2017, 08:00 PM
OKFC05 OKFC05 is offline
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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So do you guys think I should leave it? Should I send it back to be made a tighter gap? Is that something s&w even does?

I have a 25 year old 686 with .010 gap that I used to shoot IDPA revolver for 10 years, and the gap never changed. I cannot understand why you would expect them to change yours for free, and I'm having trouble understanding what you think you will gain by taking off the barrel, setting it back a thread, and having the gap and cone recut, especially if your barrel is now straight cut with a good forcing cone. If it shoots well, leave it alone, or you risk making it worse.
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Old 07-29-2017, 08:33 PM
JohnY516 JohnY516 is offline
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I have a 25 year old 686 with .010 gap that I used to shoot IDPA revolver for 10 years, and the gap never changed. I cannot understand why you would expect them to change yours for free, and I'm having trouble understanding what you think you will gain by taking off the barrel, setting it back a thread, and having the gap and cone recut, especially if your barrel is now straight cut with a good forcing cone. If it shoots well, leave it alone, or you risk making it worse.
Ha the thing is I don't know what to expect cause I'm a complete newbie to revolvers. I just got to reading around the internet, which never yields the most accurate or consistent views, and thought I would ask here.

Also never said I expected S&W to do work I request free of charge.

Last edited by JohnY516; 07-29-2017 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 07-29-2017, 08:50 PM
oysterer oysterer is offline
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very true, messing with a in spec gap is it is not going to improve anything at this point. A lighter hammer spring/return spring is what I always do and it works wonders. Then practice the correct grip and trigger finger pull and practice practice practice.
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Old 07-29-2017, 09:02 PM
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The factory spec as I recall was once .008 max. Now it seems to be .012. Pretty sloppy. I prefer mine to be .005-.006. If you don't shoot lead, .004 is pretty good.
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Old 07-29-2017, 09:51 PM
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triggershims.com has shims available that might improve that easily without any special tools or mods. I agree with OK. Shoot the hell out of it and don't fret. 586/686 are some of S&W's finest models and a pleasure to handle and shoot. Personally I wouldn't send anything back to Smith unless it needed machine work. Their quality control is inconsistent. Get a book and learn to do a little smithing. Most things I have resolved needed nothing more than little polishing and lubrication, sometimes a shim or so. Hey but that's just my opinion and I have a revolver affliction.
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:05 PM
OKFC05 OKFC05 is offline
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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Ha the thing is I don't know what to expect cause I'm a complete newbie to revolvers. I just got to reading around the internet, which never yields the most accurate or consistent views, and thought I would ask here.

You might find this authoritative book useful if you want to delve into the details of your revolver and learn:
The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual 5th Edition Book by - MPN: SWR-1/5
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Old 07-30-2017, 05:47 PM
JohnY516 JohnY516 is offline
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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Originally Posted by OKFC05 View Post
You might find this authoritative book useful if you want to delve into the details of your revolver and learn:
The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual 5th Edition Book by - MPN: SWR-1/5

Awesome. Thank you.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:02 PM
Jersey Doug Jersey Doug is online now
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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There also is the one side compared to the other gap.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:40 PM
robertrwalsh robertrwalsh is offline
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In response to your second question, if the gun performs OK for you I would NOT go to the trouble and expense of setting the barrel back. I doubt that Smith will do it on the house as the gun is within spec now. I have had this done myself a time or two but only when there was a performance issue. Last time was a used gun that spit really badly, the forcing cone was very badly cut and had an obvious angel to it. Setting the barrel back and having the cone recut fixed the problem, but it really was a problem. Shoot first, decide later.
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