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Old 07-29-2017, 01:52 PM
JohnY516 JohnY516 is offline
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Default 586 cylinder gap.

Hey. Just got a 586 L-comp. I had to send it in when I first got it because the ejector rod was slightly bent and the trigger was not what I believed a performance center trigger should feel like. S&W's customer service was great and they sent it back with a straight rod and much better trigger.

So onto my question. Today I was measuring the cylinder gap and i'm getting 0.010. I believe this is within s&w's spec but figured I would check here to see if its an acceptable gap or not. The only other smith revolver I have for reference is a model 69 who's gap is measuring 0.006.
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Old 07-29-2017, 02:24 PM
Toolguy Toolguy is online now
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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I think .012 is the S&W max now. I want mine in the .005 - .006 range.
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Old 07-29-2017, 02:51 PM
OldChief OldChief is offline
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I do believe it's .040" ~ .010" with .006" being ideal.
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Old 07-29-2017, 03:37 PM
robertrwalsh robertrwalsh is offline
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If I remember correctly it USED to be 4-8, then went up to 10. I hadn't heard about it going to 12. For my money 6 is ideal, not too loose but not so right that it will jam up if it gets dirty.
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Old 07-29-2017, 07:50 PM
JohnY516 JohnY516 is offline
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So do you guys think I should leave it? Should I send it back to be made a tighter gap? Is that something s&w even does?
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Old 07-29-2017, 08:00 PM
OKFC05 OKFC05 is offline
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So do you guys think I should leave it? Should I send it back to be made a tighter gap? Is that something s&w even does?

I have a 25 year old 686 with .010 gap that I used to shoot IDPA revolver for 10 years, and the gap never changed. I cannot understand why you would expect them to change yours for free, and I'm having trouble understanding what you think you will gain by taking off the barrel, setting it back a thread, and having the gap and cone recut, especially if your barrel is now straight cut with a good forcing cone. If it shoots well, leave it alone, or you risk making it worse.
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Old 07-29-2017, 08:33 PM
JohnY516 JohnY516 is offline
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I have a 25 year old 686 with .010 gap that I used to shoot IDPA revolver for 10 years, and the gap never changed. I cannot understand why you would expect them to change yours for free, and I'm having trouble understanding what you think you will gain by taking off the barrel, setting it back a thread, and having the gap and cone recut, especially if your barrel is now straight cut with a good forcing cone. If it shoots well, leave it alone, or you risk making it worse.
Ha the thing is I don't know what to expect cause I'm a complete newbie to revolvers. I just got to reading around the internet, which never yields the most accurate or consistent views, and thought I would ask here.

Also never said I expected S&W to do work I request free of charge.

Last edited by JohnY516; 07-29-2017 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 07-29-2017, 08:50 PM
oysterer oysterer is offline
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very true, messing with a in spec gap is it is not going to improve anything at this point. A lighter hammer spring/return spring is what I always do and it works wonders. Then practice the correct grip and trigger finger pull and practice practice practice.
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Old 07-29-2017, 09:02 PM
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The factory spec as I recall was once .008 max. Now it seems to be .012. Pretty sloppy. I prefer mine to be .005-.006. If you don't shoot lead, .004 is pretty good.
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Old 07-29-2017, 09:51 PM
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triggershims.com has shims available that might improve that easily without any special tools or mods. I agree with OK. Shoot the hell out of it and don't fret. 586/686 are some of S&W's finest models and a pleasure to handle and shoot. Personally I wouldn't send anything back to Smith unless it needed machine work. Their quality control is inconsistent. Get a book and learn to do a little smithing. Most things I have resolved needed nothing more than little polishing and lubrication, sometimes a shim or so. Hey but that's just my opinion and I have a revolver affliction.
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Old 07-30-2017, 12:05 PM
OKFC05 OKFC05 is offline
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Ha the thing is I don't know what to expect cause I'm a complete newbie to revolvers. I just got to reading around the internet, which never yields the most accurate or consistent views, and thought I would ask here.

You might find this authoritative book useful if you want to delve into the details of your revolver and learn:
The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual 5th Edition Book by - MPN: SWR-1/5
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Old 07-30-2017, 05:47 PM
JohnY516 JohnY516 is offline
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586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap. 586 cylinder gap.  
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You might find this authoritative book useful if you want to delve into the details of your revolver and learn:
The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual 5th Edition Book by - MPN: SWR-1/5

Awesome. Thank you.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:02 PM
Jersey Doug Jersey Doug is offline
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There also is the one side compared to the other gap.
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:40 PM
robertrwalsh robertrwalsh is offline
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In response to your second question, if the gun performs OK for you I would NOT go to the trouble and expense of setting the barrel back. I doubt that Smith will do it on the house as the gun is within spec now. I have had this done myself a time or two but only when there was a performance issue. Last time was a used gun that spit really badly, the forcing cone was very badly cut and had an obvious angel to it. Setting the barrel back and having the cone recut fixed the problem, but it really was a problem. Shoot first, decide later.
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Old 08-26-2017, 09:04 AM
Robert Finegan Robert Finegan is offline
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IF the gap is big and the cylinder end shake is small you are is good shape to shoot and shoot until the endshake becomes and issue and then fix both. If you have a lot of endshake then tighten it up, most of the time it will tighten( make the gap smaller along with it....Else you will have to reset the barrel back a turn. Lots of work and $$ for little gain


Best


-Robert
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Old 08-26-2017, 11:26 AM
Neumann Neumann is offline
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The wider the cylinder gap, the more likely to cause spatter from unburned powder or lead out the sides. That happens with a .006" gap too, but to a lesser extent. Even at its maximum, the cylinder gap has very little effect on velocity or accuracy.
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Old 08-26-2017, 03:37 PM
Kenneth07ex Kenneth07ex is offline
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The wider the cylinder gap, the more likely to cause spatter from unburned powder or lead out the sides. That happens with a .006" gap too, but to a lesser extent. Even at its maximum, the cylinder gap has very little effect on velocity or accuracy.
I have a python that had the same issue. It would spit hot pieces back at my face. Also shot lots of fire out the side. Both were symptoms of excessive gap, it wasn't that bad. Just bad enough that something needed to be addressed. Everything else about the gun was flawless. So I took it to a local Smith, and it came back fixed. It wasn't expensive either, thirty bucks or so, back in the 80s. It's a easy fix for someone that knows their business. And I agree with an earlier post about spotty workmanship at the factory. So first, find out if it even needs to be fixed. Take it out and put a few rounds thru it.
Since the factory likely won't fix it for free, and if it turns out to need fixing. I'd consider taking it someplace local. That way references can be verified, and a price, as well as what is needed, can all be agreed on beforehand. Life is too short, and revolvers are too expensive, to let this piece fall short of its full potential.
Let it be all that it can be, and you'll love it every time you take it out!
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Old 08-26-2017, 05:32 PM
GeoJelly GeoJelly is online now
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Kinda sorta on-topic - S&W removed a 4-in M64 barrel and installed a 3-in barrel that I provided for a half-hour labor ($45 last year). Couple of assumptions follow: my guess is they'd do it (set back) for you - but I bet the labor would be at least an hour to 1.5-hr. Plus the $45 estimate fee (which I assume paid, in my case, for the ship-to label) and $35 shipping back. At 1.5-hr - I'd guess it would cost $135 + $45 + $35 ... $215. A 586-Comp is a pretty nice handgun - I'd cut my SBUX trips for a couple of months and send it to them if it really bothers you ...
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Old 08-26-2017, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacky View Post
triggershims.com has shims available that might improve that easily without any special tools or mods. I agree with OK. Shoot the hell out of it and don't fret. 586/686 are some of S&W's finest models and a pleasure to handle and shoot. Personally I wouldn't send anything back to Smith unless it needed machine work. Their quality control is inconsistent. Get a book and learn to do a little smithing. Most things I have resolved needed nothing more than little polishing and lubrication, sometimes a shim or so. Hey but that's just my opinion and I have a revolver affliction.
Cylinder shims sold by trigger shims do absolutely NOTHING for barrel cylinder gap except to enlarge it, not make it smaller.
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Old 08-27-2017, 07:23 AM
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I carry a feeler gauge with me when I go to a gun show, store or to look at a gun at someones home. If the B/C Gap exceeds .006" I will pass on it as that is my outermost limit. Most of my Revolvers are .004 - .005 but some do go to .006" - nothing more.

I was shooting with a friend last year who purchased a used M60-3 and I was complaining of being constantly hit with spitting lead and powder. He brought the gun over afterwards and we measured a .009" B/C Gap - which is the explanation for the spitting lead.

Yes, the BC Gap can be fixed however the expense is pretty high and best to avoid the situation in the first place. IMHO there are STILL plenty of vintage Revolvers available so a buyer can still be somewhat discriminating. Personally - I'd pay a little more for what I deem a "mechanically perfect gun" rather than to save $50 - $100 bucks and then have to spend even more to remedy problems of "out of spec". Just my opinion of course. Because gun smithing is so expensive now-days, I believe the money should be spent on a better gun instead of fixing a cheaper one.

There are a few exceptions if one works and repairs his own stuff, has all the tools, parts and knowledge. I am one of those guys and if I am sure I can remedy a minor problem myself with little outlay, I might go ahead and buy an example that falls into that category, but many here just have to pay, wait and be disappointed in the long run. It pays to be aware of what costs really are now.

Last edited by chief38; 08-27-2017 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:48 AM
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I have set barrels back and find 6 to 8 thousandths my ideal. Smaller and I get tie ups. 10 thousandths would be fine with me. Also these guns are not as precision as we want to think. Cylinder movement can vary 1 or 2 thousandths as it rotates with all the "play" in the system(how the cylinder fits on the yoke etc .) people willsay it does not but they are dreaming. It makes no difference in how the shoot unless it is extreme and then it does need to be addressed .
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