**I just tried painting it myself-came out fair, not as light as the pic shows. I taped off the areas I didn't want painted with Frogtape but still got a little spill over on the sides.**




I really need the red ramp on a front sight, for me black on black sights just don't work. My 27-2, made in 1973, was refinished at some point by S&W (by a previous owner) so I don't feel I'll be doing anything bad to it to have this done.

The question is where? I also want the white outline blade for the rear sight. I'm leaning to sending it back to the mothership, mostly so it'll look like and be a factory job. I'm also willing to use a high quality smith but not sure who else to consider.

I appreciate any suggestions.

I have called SW for new oem sights before. I'm pretty sure they can help you out over the phone.

I have a 617 and the white outline on the rear sight is uneven. As a free replacement, they decided to send me an all black rear sight. I have not installed it because I think it requires a new screw too and they did not send that.

I just googled it. A new windage screw is required when replacing the rear sight blade. Don't forget to ask for that too.


Personally, I do not feel the white outline helps as much as you think it would.

I highly recommend painting your front sight. Properly applied paint is brighter than plastic inserts and much easier to replace if you want to remove it or change colors. If you search on this forum, you will find lots of threads about painting the front sight.

Lately, I have been using Testor's model paints to paint my sights, but I have also used nail polish with good results. With either product, you may need to use multiple coats to get good coverage.

I use the white typewriter correction fluid. It looks good and comes of really easy with no damage to the finish.

+1 on the Testor model paint at $1.50/bottle. The dayglo green is something else against a black bullseye. White base coat always.

Stu

My preference after trying all kinds of sight changes is a plain black rear sight with the front sight painted with good enamel model paint. I like the florescent colors, and prefer green or red. I degrease the front sight well and give it a first coat of white paint. When that's good and cured, I add the color. I generally apply the paint over the curve of the top of the sight slightly down the front side and half way down the ramped portion of the sight. These days, with diminishing eye sight, I have opened up the width (not depth!) of my rear black sight blade carefully using a file with a safe square side to the bottom of the notch. Cold blue will darken the shiney metal after doing this. I use the same sight picture as always, centering the front sight in the rear sight notch and with the colored top of the front sight level with the top of the rear sight blade. This works very well for me. Best part is, if for some reason you wish to return that front sight to OEM, all you have to do is remove the paint. And if the paint eventually wears off, it can be easily redone. And it doesn't cost much to get it done this way!

__________________
So long ... Ken

It's interesting to see how it's done.

The Midway version works and there are kits out there to do it the same way - but with a factory job, the red is pressed into the dovetail from a small sheet of plastic.

Midway sells a kit with everything you need to replace the rear sight blade. I have installed a couple of them, not difficult at all. Probably numerous other sources also. You generally must break the existing rear sight windage screw to replace the blade, but the kit contains the replacement screw. One of those jobs you should do inside a plastic bag to avoid losing parts.

I'd just paint the existing front blade whatever color you want, but if you want to do the insert, that's easy enough, just more expensive and more work.

Umm, ok I think I'll just go with the paint method, got a good hobby shop 5 minutes away and I know they carry Testor's paints. I'll probably get to it this weekend and will put a pic of my results if anyone really wants to see.

My 686 no dash 4" has the white outline rear, my 66-1 4" doesn't. Not necessary but I tend to prefer it.

FWIW, I have the best luck using a small sharp pointed tool, even a good strong toothpick, to apply the paint to the front sight. Tried a brush first with limited success. Tended to get too much paint on the sight. Use the toothpick to dip into the paint, but don't collect a big drop of paint. Just touch the tip and then apply the paint to the sight. You can control the paint much better this way.

When applying the white undercoat, put on as thin a coating as you can. Use the small tip to make sure the grooves in the sight are coated to the bottom. Let it dry 24 hours. Then apply your color of choice, using only enough to cover the white. Don't make the paint any thicker than absolutely necessary to cover the white and keep it all on top of the sight blade. If you mess up, use a bit of acetone or other paint thinner to wipe it clean and start over. You'll get the hang of it.

Also, depending on the age of the paint you buy, sometimes it gets thick. If that's the case, find a suitable small plastic lid and put a couple drops of paint into it from the bottle, then add a drop or maybe two of the thinner that you can buy in a small bottle where you buy the paint. Stir the paint with the thinner to thin it down so that you an apply it without leaving a blob of paint on the sight. Having this paint in this shallow container also helps me keep from getting too much paint on the tip of my applicator, and that is a big help to keep from getting too much paint on the sight. I'm probably a slow learner, but it's easy to do, easy to repair or replace, and all it takes is a bit of time and patience!!

BTW, that sure is a mighty fine lookin' revolver ya got there, brother!!!!!!

__________________
So long ... Ken

I'll jump in here too! I used to (years ago) do the dovetail cut in the front sight and install the cast red insert but have not opted for that method in at least 20 years now. I am a huge Testor's Paint fan. The advantages are MANY!

1) NO permanent alteration is done and gun can be fully restored to Factory in minutes.

2) You can quickly change color if you find the color you painted on is not to your liking.

3) NO chance of "messing-up" the gun's finish.

4) The paint can NOT fall out during a match or shooting session.

5) Testor's Paint lasts a LONG time! Go with 3 thin coats as opposed to a thick one. Use a toothpick to apply - not a paint brush. Clean with Alcohol to remove oils before applying.

6) Cheap as hell! Testor's Paint is only a few bucks - as opposed to the kit which is many times more expensive.

I also like Testors paint on the firearms (not just S&Ws)

I often use it to fill the text on the auto-loaders
Our local Hobby Shop gets about $4 per bottle of paint. The good folks at Amazon had a 8 color set, delivered to my door, for under $11. That included thinner and a brush. Plus I used no gas to go get it

Amazon.com: Testors Promotional Enamel Paint Set: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Toothpicks are my friend. The free brush has never been used.

I wanted to do the same to my model 15-2 that had been reblued several times, and I am glad I did. I used the Larry Potterfield method above but found that I got better, quicker results with the Brownells kit. It smells way better too and the colors are brighter. I did go a little deep on the dovetail cut but I don't care, it's held up just fine. It's a great improvement to how easily my old eyes pick up that front sight. The Brownells kit takes about 30 minutes from beginning to end, it's super easy.

__________________
USAF AMMO

By the way - I personally find that when shooting outdoors, the factory and alike colored inserts (especially the red/orange color) are terrible in the sunlight and turn gray to me. When I first installed the inserts I only shot indoors, but now do most of my shooting outdoors so I removed the Testor's paint on frequently used "outdoor guns". You simply don't have that option with a permanently altered gun. Outdoors, a solid black front sight works best for me.

Well the hobby shop that WAS in my neighborhood is now closed, drove by today before work, empty shop, no new address so I'll find another. Hoped to get to the first coat tonight, now I'll definitely have to wait until the weekend.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Another example of what a great place this is.

Hobby Lobby carries Testor's paint.

Seconds on the testors paint. Used to be the standard treatment for duty revolver sights. Yellow on the front blade, green on the rear sight blade. Good contrast. As always, start with a white base coat.

Painted it

I have a lot of experience with painting small items. I do a lot of
fishing lures. Have used nail polish, Testors, and many other types of hobby store paints. I have found that carefully cleaning
surface to be painted with acetone on Q tip will help your paint
jobs life. Also if you put a coat of white on as a primer, the color
of your finish coat will be brighter. Just make sure that white and
finish color are same brand, some paints will react to each other
and turn to goo. Having said all this my favorite sights, front and
back are plain black. Seems to be the best for me for all purposes
The Flo colors give me a false or fuzzy top to my front sight. The
only one I like is the Raybar/ Glow worm type on a shot gun, it's
hard to beat in the woods.

Thanks, I used Testor's with a white base under the orange. The hobby shop had these tiny applicators I used.