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Old 08-10-2017, 12:35 PM
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Default 66-2 cylinder stopped rotating

On its last cylinder of 38s today at the indoor range, I got a "click" instead of a bang. Took the empties out, replaced the unfired one hole back, cocked the hammer, nothing - noticed the cylinder was not turning. Doesn't seem to be binding, easy to open and close and eject empties. So before I call S&W, does anyone have an idea of what it might be or what to look for - hoping it is something simple to avoid sending it in. The gun was new when I bought it in the early 80s; sees some range time and not fed a lot of 357s.

TIA!
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Old 08-10-2017, 12:38 PM
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Hand tension spring. Not keeping hand engaged. You can open cylinder and push on the exposed tip should be spring loaded.

Last edited by bigggbbruce; 08-10-2017 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 08-10-2017, 12:40 PM
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Sounds like hand pivot pin sheared off. If that is the problem, a new hand will fix.
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Old 08-10-2017, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigggbbruce View Post
Hand tension spring. Not keeping hand engaged. You can open cylinder and push on the exposed tip should be spring loaded.

The exposed tip does have some spring tension to it; whether it is enough, I cannot tell.

Quote:
Sounds like hand pivot pin sheared off. If that is the problem, a new hand will fix.
Is that a part S&W will send me or do they need to install?
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Old 08-10-2017, 12:46 PM
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Open the cylinder; push the cyl. release button backwards and hold while you cock the hammer. Does the ratchet hand raise and protrude from the frame window in the recoil shield ?

If not, that is the problem.
If it seems to come out an 1/8th inch or so and raise to the top of the opening as though cocking the hammer all right; ? then next look closely at the ratchet teeth on back of the cylinder for wear. ((That would be "extreme" wear!)

If all that looks okay, then I'm lost on what the problem is.
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rog8732 View Post
Open the cylinder; push the cyl. release button backwards and hold while you cock the hammer. Does the ratchet hand raise and protrude from the frame window in the recoil shield ?

If not, that is the problem.
If it seems to come out an 1/8th inch or so and raise to the top of the opening as though cocking the hammer all right; ? then next look closely at the ratchet teeth on back of the cylinder for wear. ((That would be "extreme" wear!)

If all that looks okay, then I'm lost on what the problem is.
The ratchet hand comes out a tiny amount - at first I thought maybe a piece broke off, but upon looking at a 19-3, a 642, a K17 and a pre-10 M&P, the amount it protrudes seems to be in line with the others. Ratchet teeth are near perfect (this doesn't/hasn't a lot of shooting over the last few decades.)
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:13 AM
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First order of business is a good cleaning of the insides, the trigger and area wear hand works in it and making sure no theis stuck to hand or area it moves in frame, then an examine hand and spring. Then check end shake back and forth movement of cylinder. If it "just happened" a bit of crud or something may be stopping the hand from moving fully forward, but something may have happened to tip of hand or its spring or like said the pin in hand that spring engages.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:16 PM
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Have it sitting in my lap with sideplate removed. Nothing appears to be missing/broken. I did blow it out with compressed air and wiped a little gunk out around the hand, but still not rotating.....
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:19 PM
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Does it not work in either SA or DA?
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:48 PM
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nada, nope, zilch......
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Old 08-11-2017, 01:23 PM
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Don't dry fire with the side plate off.It will chip the frame.

I bought a previously owned 66-2 several months ago that showed this issue during my 1st range visit with it.

At home I removed ALL the internal parts and took apart the cylinder.

Every piece got a very thorough cleaning and then a light lube with Rem Oil before reassembling.

The next trip to the range the revolver worked perfectly with my 357mag target loads and continues to work without issue.

I don't know exactly what was wrong at first but I'm almost sure it was hand related.The cleaning,lubing and careful reassembly fixed the problem for me.

Putting the hand and hand spring back on the trigger can cause a few cuss words to be uttered if you haven't done it before.
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Old 08-11-2017, 01:29 PM
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Thanks! With the sideplate off, the hand moves freely and can easily be removed and reinserted; nothing appears SO gunked up to make it suddenly not work after shooting that morning, especially after using a little computer "canned air". Maybe just enough of the tip on the hand broke? IDK
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Old 08-11-2017, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneounceload View Post
Thanks! With the sideplate off, the hand moves freely and can easily be removed and reinserted; nothing appears SO gunked up to make it suddenly not work after shooting that morning, especially after using a little computer "canned air". Maybe just enough of the tip on the hand broke? IDK
What do you mean "can easily be removed and reinserted"?

Can you take the hand out of the trigger and put it back in the trigger easily or are you saying something else?
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Old 08-11-2017, 01:50 PM
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Default 66-2 cylinder stopped rotating

Here is a picture of my model 10 i took the side plate off of to clean up. The hand does look like it can come off, but what do I know.......

Last edited by moralem; 08-11-2017 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 08-11-2017, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
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What do you mean "can easily be removed and reinserted"?

Can you take the hand out of the trigger and put it back in the trigger easily or are you saying something else?
With the sideplate removed, the hand is easily removed and the pin reinserted in the hole,
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Old 08-11-2017, 02:25 PM
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Unless I am missing something, my gun looks exactly like moralem's - the hand moves freely back and forth and can fall out or be removed and reinserted as easily as the safety bar
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Old 08-11-2017, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneounceload View Post
Unless I am missing something, my gun looks exactly like moralem's - the hand moves freely back and forth and can fall out or be removed and reinserted as easily as the safety bar
That's sounds like your problem. The hand is under spring tension within the trigger. Can't remember if it will pop right out or not, but I definitely remember that when you put it back in, you need to use something small like a punch to stick in the trigger and move the spring to insert it properly. I would look closer into the hand and spring.
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Old 08-11-2017, 02:46 PM
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Definitely a hand spring problem.

The hand spring either broke or slipped off the pin.

If broken you can get one from gunpartscorp,ebay or maybe jackfirstgun
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Old 08-11-2017, 02:48 PM
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Thanks - will have to get a closer look.
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Old 08-11-2017, 03:01 PM
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Really pressing it into place got it to work once or twice before it stopped working again and became easy to move and remove.
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Old 08-11-2017, 04:48 PM
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You tube here I come!
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Old 08-11-2017, 05:16 PM
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I think I found my issue - looking at this video:


at right about the 10 minute mark (reassembly of trigger and hand) he talks about TWO pins close to each other to hold the spring in place. Of what appears to be a total of three protrusions on the hand ( a thicker shorter one near the middle) my hand only has two - the middle one and one near the round end So, possibly a piece sheared off? Now, IF that is the case, is the hand a special item that needs factory fitting?
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Old 08-11-2017, 06:04 PM
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Mic the thickness of your hand and you want an identical or slightly thicker one.
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Old 08-11-2017, 06:10 PM
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Mike the top of the hand (width). If the gun was in time try to get the exact same size hand. This will keep ratchets from having to be filed. If it was out of time a slightly wider hand is in order. Filing ratchets is for pro's.
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:33 PM
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While doing this I sent an email to S&W asking what the process is for a return if needed. They sent me a return shipping label. It appears that a new hand will be needed ......

Thanks to all for their help. That You Tube video was great for anyone not proficient in disassembly of a K frame; and a shout-out to The Gunsmither tools (SmithMaster™ - trigger spring tool for S&W(R) Revolvers. | Welcome to Gunsmither™ Tools | Myself) for that tool that makes the removal and installation of the rebound slide and spring..........and no, I don't get paid.
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Old 08-11-2017, 08:12 PM
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FWIW, I watched the video and did not see any procedural issues until Jim started working with the extractor. My recommendation to him would be to insert 3-5 empty (spent) cartridges in the cylinder holes before attaching any tool to the extractor rod. This will avoid any damage to the extractor star.

Just one old Marine's opinion.

Glad you're sending your revolver back to "The Mother Ship" for the installation of the replacement parts.
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Old 08-11-2017, 08:28 PM
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Question on returning - do you leave the basic stocks on,or not? (I'll put the original GA's on and leave the S&W finger groove ones at home)
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Old 08-11-2017, 08:36 PM
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Just to be on the safe side, you can call S&W Customer Service and ask, but I have never sent a firearm back (Springfield Armory or Smith & Wesson) with the stocks (grips) attached.

1. They are not needed for the repairs, and most important

2. Leaving them in place increases the risk that the stocks will be damaged.

In the past, Customer Service has specifically asked that I remove the stocks before shipment. All of my stocks are GAs that are in excellent condition, and I keep them that way with Renaissance Wax.
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Old 08-12-2017, 12:53 PM
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Thanks to all for hints, tips, and help. Now to find a box to fit inside the FEDEX box and off it goes Monday..........
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Old 08-12-2017, 01:04 PM
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Nice to know S&W has the parts and is going to fix a revolver from 1985.

There's several variations of hands so it's best to have the factory do the replacement and fitting if they are willing.
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Old 08-12-2017, 01:32 PM
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The attached image shows the K frame hand with 2 pins from a 66-2 next to a hand that has 3 pins installed in a 686-3 L Frame trigger.The L frame hand is bigger and longer
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Old 08-30-2017, 01:05 PM
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Update and question:

FINALLY got to get with someone from S&W on my 66-2. It is sitting in the performance center awaiting an evaluation and quote - 4-6 weeks from now, and they have had it two weeks already..........not sure if that is a good thing or bad.

Since my gun was made in 1982, and the lifetime warranty didn't come into existence until 1989, odds are I'm going to get hit for repair bill. The hand had a post that holds the spring break, so a new hand will need to be fitted. Has anyone had that done where you incurred a charge, and would you be willing to give me an idea of what to expect? PM if that's easier. While I like the gun, I'd hate to have to drop more to get it fixed than it's worth.

TIA!
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Old 08-30-2017, 03:31 PM
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Keep us posted. I have the same problem with my 1953 Combat Masterpiece, I am going to read the manuals and watch the videos till I have them memorized, then get to work.
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Old 08-30-2017, 11:57 PM
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Hands and Springs not expenaive parts. Smith repair prices are quite reasonable too, so I wouldn't be too concerned about the cost. The hard part is waiting for it to be fixed and returned.
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Old 08-31-2017, 09:25 AM
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On the only occasion Smith ever charged me for a repair, a 29-2, they turned the barrel and recut the forcing cone as well as replaced some small parts, and the labor charge was quite reasonable.
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