When all guns were blue....

SW CQB 45 · #1 08-17-2017, 08:36 PM

HA

I am somewhat going full circle.

I had a Colt Govt that I had hard chromed in 2005......it will be coming back to me blue in the near future.

Next year my two main competition guns will be blue (SW 586 4"and Colt Govt 5")

I recently purchased a Model 10-8 3" which will also go into my carry regiment.

I have lived in the world of stainless steel, hard chrome, coatings and rust resistant finishes for the past 30 years......

Is there something I need to keep in quad form (home, office, shooting bag and vehicle) to keep rust from starting?

While what comes to mind is a silicone cloth which I had in the 80s.....but is there something better or more modern?

I started with a blued SW Model 29 in the early 80s and full circle, I will be carrying blue again.

I don't want rust to start...as I reside in an area with high heat, high humidity and when it decides to rain, it rains hard.

I look forward to what works for you.

thanks for looking

Iggy · #2 08-17-2017, 08:45 PM

It's drier than a popcorn fart out here, but we got this thing called winter. I goober mine up with a good car wax.

DWalt · #3 08-17-2017, 08:45 PM

Wax works fine. Any wax. I use Johnson's Paste Wax. Some of the gun oils are supposed to prevent corrosion.

chief38 · #4 08-17-2017, 09:25 PM

Since the mid 80's I've EDC'd a Stainless gun but back when I did carry a blued M10 Snubby I wiped it down at the end of the day (not as often in the cooler months) with a Silicone Rag. Back then I carried IWB and I do sweat a lot in the Summer months. I routinely cleaned it at least once a month even if it was not fired and always checked under he grips for rust.

As long as you set up a reasonable regiment of wiping it down, cleaning and inspecting you should be good to go. It was not all that long ago the whole world carried Blued guns.

Tom S. · #5 08-18-2017, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chief38

It was not all that long ago the whole world carried Blued guns.

Rust was why nickel plated guns became popular, to the point that in some S&W models, nickel vastly outsold the blued versions. This resulted with some blued models commanding premium prices over plated versions.

steelslaver · #6 08-18-2017, 10:38 AM

I personally preferred blued guns. Yes they can rust and it wears off. But, I still prefer them. Only nickle gun I have is a 32 S&W top break model 1 1/2 single action. LOL. Bought it to cut down and make another belt buckle gun, but you guys have wrecked me for stuff like that and despite some finish loss it is to "nice" and being over 130 years old deserves it retirement as is.

I do have quite a few stainless S&W revolvers and they are great but, still rather have nice blued gun. I guess I am stuck in the past. Handguns should be revolvers and guns should be blued.

snowman · #7 08-18-2017, 10:59 AM

SW CQB 45:

I use a product which occasionally is mentioned here on the forum but isn't widely distributed, Corrosion X. I won't make exaggerated claims for it, but just tell you my experience.

I have my share of revolvers, about half of them blue. After shooting and cleaning them, I wipe them down with a few drops of the product on a cloth and store them in their foam-lined plastic cases(a terrible no-no according to the conventional wisdom here). Some are not fired often and may remain untouched in their cases for quite some time, maybe as long as a year and a half or so. This area also experiences heat, humidity, and heavy rains -just not AS much as you folks down there.

After around 13 or 14 years of using the product and following the routine outlined above, I've not had any rust whatsoever form on any of my revolvers, regardless of how long they've been in their cases(an exception is mentioned below, which was my fault and not that of the product). Consequently I've continued using the product.

As I recall Corrosion X was developed and is manufactured in the Dallas area, not far from you(so I would assume it was produced with Texas heat and humidity in mind). I don't know the status or condition of the company presently. You would likely have to find their phone number and call them to find the nearest distributor, or have them ship you a bottle directly from their facility.

A caveat or three: 1)The product is(or at least was) advertised as a CLP, but forget the first two letters, especially the second. It is only a marginal lubricant, and gets gummy in the moving parts of a gun after it sits awhile.

2)If you store in foam-lined cases, never leave them open. Open only to take the gun in and out, then close them immediately. This prevents the foam from taking on moisture from the air. I made the mistake of leaving one open too long one time, then found a little surface rust on the rear sight the next time I took it out. I applied more Corrosion X to the sight, and the rust disappeared by the next day. No more open cases, no problem since.

3)You probably won't experience this one in your area. If you ever shoot on a cold day at an outdoor range and the gun and case get cold, let them warm up gradually, with gun in the case, when you get home. This, as a rule, will prevent condensation on the gun from being brought into a warm house. Still should take the gun out and check it after both gun and case return to room temperature(I feel like I'm not treating you as a knowledgeable, experienced, adult gunowner here. Please pardon me if this is offensive -it's certainly not intentional.).

Well, that is my experience thus far. I know that there are other fine protectants out there -just haven't tried them myself.

Best wishes in your search for the best solution!
Andy

mauser9 · #8 08-18-2017, 11:02 AM

Switched to that Remington green cloth which had Rem-Oil and rust inhibitors impregnated in it. Cost about $6 at Bass Pro. Been using for a couple years. So far so good.

gwpercle · #9 08-18-2017, 11:25 AM

A product called WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor was in the top of an extensive corrosion test . It along with Frog Lube were the top rust inhibitors.
Check it out it looks to be a winner in the rust battle.
After seeing those test results I'm going to get a can, I live in Louisiana, known for heat and humidity.
Gary

Texas40 · #10 08-18-2017, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gwpercle

A product called WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor was in the top of an extensive corrosion test . It along with Frog Lube were the top rust inhibitors.
Check it out it looks to be a winner in the rust battle.
After seeing those test results I'm going to get a can, I live in Louisiana, known for heat and humidity.
Gary

Water displacement formula 40 is ****.

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowman

SW CQB 45:

I use a product which occasionally is mentioned here on the forum but isn't widely distributed, Corrosion X. I won't make exaggerated claims for it, but just tell you my experience.

I have my share of revolvers, about half of them blue. After shooting and cleaning them, I wipe them down with a few drops of the product on a cloth and store them in their foam-lined plastic cases(a terrible no-no according to the conventional wisdom here). Some are not fired often and may remain untouched in their cases for quite some time, maybe as long as a year and a half or so. This area also experiences heat, humidity, and heavy rains -just not AS much as you folks down there.

After around 13 or 14 years of using the product and following the routine outlined above, I've not had any rust whatsoever form on any of my revolvers, regardless of how long they've been in their cases(an exception is mentioned below, which was my fault and not that of the product). Consequently I've continued using the product.

As I recall Corrosion X was developed and is manufactured in the Dallas area, not far from you(so I would assume it was produced with Texas heat and humidity in mind). I don't know the status or condition of the company presently. You would likely have to find their phone number and call them to find the nearest distributor, or have them ship you a bottle directly from their facility.

A caveat or three: 1)The product is(or at least was) advertised as a CLP, but forget the first two letters, especially the second. It is only a marginal lubricant, and gets gummy in the moving parts of a gun after it sits awhile.

2)If you store in foam-lined cases, never leave them open. Open only to take the gun in and out, then close them immediately. This prevents the foam from taking on moisture from the air. I made the mistake of leaving one open too long one time, then found a little surface rust on the rear sight the next time I took it out. I applied more Corrosion X to the sight, and the rust disappeared by the next day. No more open cases, no problem since.

3)You probably won't experience this one in your area. If you ever shoot on a cold day at an outdoor range and the gun and case get cold, let them warm up gradually, with gun in the case, when you get home. This, as a rule, will prevent condensation on the gun from being brought into a warm house. Still should take the gun out and check it after both gun and case return to room temperature(I feel like I'm not treating you as a knowledgeable, experienced, adult gunowner here. Please pardon me if this is offensive -it's certainly not intentional.).

Well, that is my experience thus far. I know that there are other fine protectants out there -just haven't tried them myself.

Best wishes in your search for the best solution!

Andy

Corrosion X good people
Know the top people at the company personally. Located in Garland actually. All my firearms see CX for guns exclusively. Mark the technical director enlightened me.
Alan is good people as well. I recommend all their products.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

H Richard · #11 08-18-2017, 12:12 PM

Surprisingly I don't recall seeing Renaissance Wax mentioned yet. I have been using it for about 8 or 9 years. It also gives your guns a very nice shine, especially bluing. For long term I now use was, but for many years I used Rig and never had a problem. I do not store in foam lined cases.