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Old 08-18-2017, 05:15 PM
Moto_X Moto_X is offline
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Default Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15?

Hello everyone,

I hope I'm posting this in the right place. I recently joined the board after picking up my first revolver ever, a S&W Model 15-3. I got it really cheap because it supposedly has a slight timing issue on one cylinder.

I followed the instructions from this site on how to test timing. There was a little play in one or two cylinders in the direction the cylinder travels. The cylinder also has some front to back play.

Is there supposed to be play in the cylinder? I've read that some of these older S&W models can be a little loose, especially the service models. How loose is too loose to shoot? Mine doesn't seem that bad, but I have no experience with revolvers. Is an over-sized hand the easiest solution to correct it?

I've attached a couple of pictures. Advice is appreciated. Thanks.
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Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15?-fullsizerender-jpg   Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15?-fullsizerender-2-jpg   Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15?-fullsizerender-3-jpg  
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Old 08-31-2017, 05:54 PM
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Welcome to the Forum!

The play (front to back) is called End Shake and can usually be taken out or minimized with the use of shim washers (.001" and .002" stainless steel sold by Powers Custom).

Another method is to have Yoke tube "stretched" with a gun smithing tool that literally increases the length a few thousandths. Either way is proper but the shim method is easy, cheap and something you can do yourself.

As far as timing goes, the Cylinder should lock up prior to the Hammer falling when the Trigger is slowly pulled. If not, the firing pin could actually miss the Primer when slow fired in double action mode. That too is usually an easy fix with the installation of an over sized Hand. They are a bit wider and they move the Cylinder a bit more into position. They will usually need minor fitting.

Please note that some amount of play is by design and perfectly normal. If everything were too tight your Revolver would jam up. If you pull the Trigger slowly and the Cylinder does lock up prior to the Hammer falling - you are OK. If you do a search here on how to measure End Shake you can do that yourself. Again, a little bit is OK.
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Old 08-31-2017, 06:16 PM
GeoJelly GeoJelly is offline
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Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15? Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15? Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15? Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15? Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15?  
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The only comment I can add is that at least one of the ratchet teeth looks damaged. I'm not sure if it could be peened back to the point where carry-up would be repaired. I think your Model 15 needs to go to a revolver-smith or back to the mothership ... or maybe try a take-off/replacement extractor. A Model 10 extractor, previously fitted to a different revolver, and from the same era as your Model 15, may work just fine.

Last edited by GeoJelly; 08-31-2017 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 08-31-2017, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoJelly View Post
The only comment I can add is that at least one of the ratchet teeth looks damaged. I'm not sure if it could be peened back to the point where carry-up would be repaired. I think your Model 15 needs to go to a revolver-smith or back to the mothership ... or maybe try a take-off/replacement extractor. A Model 10 extractor, previously fitted to a different revolver, and from the same era as your Model 15, may work just fine.
You are right - looks like a huge Burr. Easily enough removed.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:55 AM
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Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15? Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15? Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15? Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15? Loose cylinder/timing on Model 15?  
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If this is your first revolver you may be getting into something beyond your capabilities. Peening ratchets and setting timing isn't something you can do with no training/learning/
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