Couple of issues with a 629-4 Classic

[helmsp]

A friend of mine gave me his 629 for some cleaning and I have a couple of question.

1. When firing S/A the trigger reset is very slow and on rare occassion gets stuck and you have to push it forward manually. I checked S/A and D/A trigger pull and its well within the "spec", 3,5lbs and 11lbs. Rebound spring and mainspring are stock. Also all parts are polished nicely already since the owner shot more than 2000 so far.
What else could it be?

2. When closing the cylinder on the last millimetre there is resistance and you have to close/push it harder at the joke to be able to close the cylinder completely. Is it due to the pin on the end of the ejector rod being sharp edged and thus giving resistance?

3. What is this metal piece for (circled it in green). Is it a cylinder release stop/block? I've had almost 6 dozens S&W so far but never seen this.



Terribly sorry for my mediocre English.

[armorer951]

The photo shows the bolt block which stops the bolt from moving forward after the gun is cocked SA or the trigger is pulled. (prevents the bolt assy from moving forward during recoil) There is a small pin on the back side (toward the frame) of the trigger that interfaces with the slot on the block, and raises it into position in front of the bolt.
This part also serves to lock the thumbpiece back to prevent the cylinder from being opened when the hammer is cocked and the trigger is to the rear.

Not sure about the cylinder resistance on closing. The extractor rod could be loose or improperly fit at the muzzle end, at it's interface with the front locking bolt...... the yoke could be out of alignment.... a burr on the extractor or hand window, or a number of other things.

The trigger issue sounds like what the factory manual calls "long ratchets". The improperly fit ratchet or ratchets can cause the hand to get trapped in the hand window in the frame as it interfaces with the side of the improperly fit ratchet. (ratchet too large)
You can test to see if this is the likely cause by opening the cylinder and, while holding the thumpriece back, cock the gun SA or dry fire in DA to see if the trigger return is normal in this scenario. If the gun works normall with the cylinder out, then long ratchets are the likely cause of the binding.

[BLUEDOT37]

Originally Posted by helmsp

Also all parts are polished nicely already since the owner shot more than 2000 so far.

Is it a cylinder release stop/block? I've had almost 6 dozens S&W so far but never seen this.

If the trigger rebound slide has been purposely polished I'd suspect that the rebound spring was altered or replaced with a lighter one. That would be my first thing to replace if nothing else is obvious.

The bolt block is mainly only found on big bore magnum N-frame revolvers with the Endurance features.

Some exceptions (but not the only) that come to mind:

- the N-frame M610 does not have the bolt block.

- the L-frame M69 does have a bolt block.

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Bolt block disengaged, M329PD
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Bolt block engaged, M329PD
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[helmsp]

Originally Posted by armorer951

Not sure about the cylinder resistance on closing. The extractor rod could be loose or improperly fit at the muzzle end, at it's interface with the front locking bolt, the yoke could be out of alignment, a burr on the extractor or hand window, or a number of other things.

I will check those things.

Originally Posted by armorer951

The trigger issue sounds like what the factory manual calls "long ratchets". The improperly fit ratchet or ratchets can cause the hand to get trapped in the hand window in the frame as it interfaces with the side of the improperly fit ratchet. (ratchet too large)

Thats it, cheers buddy. Will use some marker/dye on the ratchet as see which area needs a few strokes of filing /stoning.