During our recent hurricane fun here in SW Florida I stored some of my collectible revolvers in their original S&W paper and cardboard box. To protect them from possible humidity if the power went out (it did for 2 days) I stored the guns in their paper and box in heavy duty zip log bags. I was wondering how they would fare for long term storage in this manner. Store and inspect every year or so. Would storing them in zip lock plastic bags create any issues such as trapped moisture for the guns? I normally just store them in their S&W brown paper and box locked up with 2 EVADRY units in the safe.

That sounds like an OK short term plan. If you wanted to store them in airtight plastic bags in the long term, I would either wax or coat them with oil without the stocks, and remove all the air possible, and without the paper and boxes (which will break down under the weight of the gun).

__________________
Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Storing in the box is a bad idea and putting the box in a plastic bag compounds the mistake, especially in a humid environment. Cardboard absorbs moisture and plastic holds it in. That paper does virtually nothing. Storage should be at a minimum in a silicone sock and preferably in a humidlty controlled environment.

Agree. Original packaging is about the worst storage medium one could use for vintage firearms.

My area isn't too humid, but I get away with keeping my revolvers in a silicone sock and then in an AceCase gun rug. Have never had an issue with moisture or corrosion. If I'm not planning on shooting them for a while, I coat with RenWax, then store the same as above. Random examination is how to really avoid problems.

Well I'm glad I asked. Any brand recommendations on the silicone socks? How do you guys store the boxes & papers for the guns?

If you're anywhere near West Palm Beach or you're passing my way I will give you a few 36" x 36" Zerust VCI yellow bags. You can place bag on a shelf in you safe, place your guns inside then zip tie the bag closed.

Or, You can cut the bags down to wrap each box or individual gun in the yellow Zerust plastic.

Naturally you should make sure the box is not moist and the gun clean and wiped with something like corrosion-x prior to even further ensure protection.

__________________
ANTIQUESMITHS
LM1300 SWHF425

One more question and I appreciate the patience and responses. Do you pull the side plate and clean/examine the inside on revolvers that may never had the side plate removed? I've removed them before and I am comfortable with total dis-assembly/reassembly. Or is the sideplate removal not recommended for guns you plan to not shoot and keep as collectible.

Anyone's silicone socks will work - they're all pretty much made by the same company for everyone anyway.

I'm more north central from you, but we get the humidity too - mine sit in silicone socks (also helps with safe dings) inside the safe running a golden rod and three big desiccant boxes.

I've used a silocone cloth wrapped around the gun w/the grips removed.

__________________
Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

Popped the side plate off and cleaned the internals. Not too dirty for a half century old gun. Some desiccated oil/grease inside that I removed with a Ballistol bath. She sure does run smooth now. I am going to grab some silicone socks sounds like a good idea. Thanks to everyone who posted ideas, much appreciated.

ankona, Here is a copy of my post. I think you'll like it. Note that I am vehemently against storing guns in silicone impregnated cloths. The post in associated link will explain why.

My bad, this is a post in the S&WCA members section. COPY and PASTE here:

>>>>>>>>> (START)

no simple answer. It is a matter of personal preference and the time frame you desire to store some of them.

Taking guns out of the box to condense the storage seemed like a good idea, however, years later ... here I am, mating the proper boxes back to the proper guns. I suggest you leave them in the original boxes unless you're sorely cramped for space.

There are many successful methods of storage but here are a few suggestions (tried and true):

Long term storage (per Gary Garbrecht and used by me successfully for 20 years): remove stocks to wrap (dry) separately in protective paper. Swab the inside of the barrel & cylinder with RIG (yes RIG). Use your fingertips and a q-tip to reach all crevices and hard to reach areas and over the entire exterior. Wrap tightly in commercial plastic wrap (a plastic wrap much thicker than Saran Wrap). Place it back in a sleeve and you're golden for about 20 years.

Buy a BOX of good quality VCI paper ( comes about 500 sheets ) of 18" x 18" or 12" x 12" Acid-free, pH neutral corrosion inhibiting VCI kraft paper and/or poly laminated VCI paper from a major manufacturer. It is inexpensive. While box of VCI paper is in storage make sure it does not accumulate moisture.

One at a time. swab barrel and cylinders with Corrosion-X (Gary Garbrecht recommends) although I have used Rem-Oil, WD-40 (Which some people rag on although I used it for nearly 20 years with NO ill effects), and Mobil-1 synthetic motor oil (recommended to me by Jim Supica, years ago) and wipe down the entire gun with a damp oily soft cloth. WRAP in VCI paper tightly. Either put it back in your box or in a gun rug, then into a heated safe or climate controlled area.

REMEMBER, years back the collectors used Sperm Whale Oil and BROTHER did that stink.

Old Nickel guns: be careful here. If the nickel is broken through at any point try NOT to oil as the oil will work it's way underneath the finish from that bare spot, years later you will find "varicose veins" or lifting nickel from that bare spot. Better to just clean and wrap tightly in VCI paper.

Also, depending how serious you are. Zerust makes a yellow VCI impregnated bag in different sizes good for an advertised, 5 years. Look into it.

Mistakes I've made: Purchased a gross of "Blitz" ( not to be confused with Flitz polish ) manufacture silicone cloths. The manufactured specified they were recommended for long term storage.

Luckily I caught something bad here within a few months. Every gun wrapped in the Blitz manufacture silicone cloths came off looking like the shroud of Turin with an image of the high spots of everything it touched in rust. I was livid. I lost some serious value on several guns because of that error. I still have those cloths. The manufacturer refused to pay any consideration for the damage.

While some like to spray the guns down with silicone spray and is seems to work OK for them, do not wrap the gun in a silicone impregnated cloth. I don't use silicone from other past experiences. I owned high end auto body and paint shops. NO Silicone products were allowed anywhere in the shop. Just a whisp of sprayed silicone in the air could ruin a refinish in progress. Wrap guns in good quality VCI paper (don't bargain hunt for the cheapest).

If the gun is in the original box with the original S&W VCI, wax coated paper, fold it nicely at the bottom of the box and use a new major brand VCI paper to wrap tightly the gun before placing back in the box. This way, if you present it for sale, you can restore the original S&W VCI or onion skin paper that is no further worn than when you folded it.

Old-time member Ralph Tremaine suggests to leave the guns to the open air inside the safe, stating he has never had an issue in all his years.

I'm sure there will be some varied methods to follow but always use your common sense ... and ... do not wrap any of them in a silicone impregnated cloth.

>>>>> END

__________________
ANTIQUESMITHS
LM1300 SWHF425

I have quit a few guns stored in the VCI bags, including a few safe queen handguns. On the revolvers, the grips were removed, the guns cleaned, waxed with Renwax, placed in an appropriate sized bag and stored in their original boxes, with the grips in the box as well.The VCI bags are good for several years, and I have had nothing but good luck with these.

I would include a silica gel packet (or equivalent) in each plastic bag.

Larry

I tried to open the link but don't have the privileges. Am interested in hearing your views on silicone socks. In my experience they work just fine. In some cases I could believe they may be a problem. Lots of variables that create lots of different options.

Regarding opening the side plate to clean, most in-depth enthusiasts will do a detail strip and clean upon ownership of any revolver. So yes, before storing it would be clean inside and out.

I've heard silica pouches are no good and especially not near or next to the gun. Due to the moisture retaining nature of the substance. Now I'm talking little cheesy ones you get with mercantile items. The heavy duty canisters may well be fine though.

While I was away as a guest of Uncle Sam's Navy I disassembled both my 1891 Argentine mauser and a M1 carbine with the wood removed and anything metallic got a good coat of Rig grease inside and out. Roughly 3.5 years later cleaned all the rig out and reassembled them. No rust although we lived in NYC without the serious humidity problems here in the south. All the metal was wrapped in heavy guage plastic sheeting. Frank

Did a copy and paste. On the silicone impregnated socks, I have no clue good or bad. For me, the silicone impregnated cloths wrapped around the guns then back into the zipper pouch was what was tragic. The brand name of the cloths were "BLITZ", not to be confused with FLITZ, which is an excellent polish. BLITZ and FLITZ are not related.

Seems those silicone socks may be a very loose knit to allow the air to pass through but I would still not recommend other than to try at your own risk.

__________________
ANTIQUESMITHS
LM1300 SWHF425

Sal great info and much appreciated. Any recommendations on where these items can be purchased via internet?
"Buy a BOX of good quality VCI paper ( comes about 500 sheets ) of 18" x 18" or 12" x 12" Acid-free, pH neutral corrosion inhibiting VCI kraft paper and/or poly laminated VCI paper from a major manufacturer."
"Commercial Plastic Wrap"
The "RIG" application to external surfaces sounds like a great idea. Should the RIG be applied to all the internals also or will the liberal dosing of Ballistol I've already applied to the internal parts suffice?

I'm on the way out now, but when I return I will send you and email with links where I purchased the VCI paper and Zerust products. Most came from ebay but be careful. You need to ask the production date on the box. Doesn't make sense to buy a roll of Zerust that was manufactured 5 years ago if they advertise a 5 year protection. Actually, it will last much longer but you want the newest batch possible.

RIG for long term storage, swab it generously down the bore of the barrel and in the cylinder chambers. Use Q-tips if you need to get into crevices on the outside.

Removing a side plate ? If necessary, make sure you use the exact proper size hollow ground screwdriver tips, not to booger the screws.

Some old revolvers I purchased ANIB that were in excess of 20 years old were stiff from the factory grease in the mechanism solidifying. Many people think there is something wrong with the revolver when it is merely dried up grease.

If you decide to take the side plate off, use your own precautions to prevent damage. Spray internals liberally with WD-40 or similar to dissolve the old caked-up grease. I am a die-hard old timer so I still use a boar's hair cleaning brush on the internals. I found the cheaper "acid brushes" start loosing hair too easily. ( I still have my horse-hair pin-striping brushes, too !) I blow out the internals with compressed air after that then I use a good grade automotive synthetic "high heat" grease (usually a reddish color). I'll dab the internals with the synthetic grease just packing it into the internals lightly.

PS: as a side note on the Corrosion-x, Gary Garbrecht (RIP) owned Formula One Race Boat Company and the Formula One Racing circuit. He also invented a 4 blade racing propeller that was the cutting edge of technology.

He showed me tests of Corrosion-x in spraying down the new props, and other marine parts, force drying them and then tests under salt water. AMAZING !! Gary gifted me my first can of Corrosion-X about 20 years ago and I've been using Corrosion-X ever since. I buy it in the 1 gallon size (much cheaper than spray cans) and use a good quality hand-pump aerator type oil can. I also have the spray cans that work on compressed air, which is EXCELLENT, but a PITA when the air runs low, I have to fire up my compressor to recharge it. The hand pumpers work just fine.

Once Gary packed those new props sprayed in Corrosion-x, heat dried and packed in VCI wrap, he stated it would have an extremely extended shelf life.

Us storing some old S&Ws, properly cleaned, prepped and packed in a heated safe would safely outlast any harsh marine storage environment (e.g. at his marinas or ocean front dealerships).

Who was Gary Garbrecht ? See here: Sports: Boats' aim: NASCAR-style success

... and ... he likely owned "the" largest private collection of vintage S&Ws in the U.S.A. if not the world, starting with Registered Magnums, Model 3 Variations, early 44 Magnums and anything else S&W that caught his eye. To own one of Gary's S&Ws is surely one of the high points of S&W collecting, unless you could buy any of Roy Jinks' collection.

__________________
ANTIQUESMITHS
LM1300 SWHF425

in my experience, the cardboard box will absorb and hold moisture from the atmosphere . Likewise for many of the soft "gun rug" type cases. This might be OK if you in Vagas but not great if your anywhere where humidity can be a problem. Mainly, you want to assure that you keep humid surfaces away from the gun. That could be through storing them in foam/poly based materials or in a humidity controlled space. ( Both is great.) Not saying it's the best way but I've taken to storing all my handguns in compact foam lined plastic cases such as offered from MTM and Doskocil. The foam in these cases will not hold moisture. I have done this for 20+ years now with nothing more than a yearly inspection on most. (at which time they get a wipe down with CLP/oil.) Works fine AND protects the gun from bumps too. The plastic S&W cases will work but I find them too bulky for my storage arrangement. Your needs may vary.
hth

__________________
Dave

Don't want to come off wrong here but that foam surely does hold moister. If you don't' believe me, submerge it in a pan of water to see what happens. It is more like a synthetic sponge than an insulator.

That it has not happened to you is likely you are in a drier climate.

Further, the egg crate type or flatter foam decomposes at about 20+ years and sometimes sooner if impregnated with a petroleum base oil or solvent.

I have airline approved cases and S&W Performance Center plastic boxes (1994-ish and newer) that show serious signs of decomposition. Mostly, looks like it is turning to dust, crumbling away and adhering to whatever metal it touches. Other times just softens and gets gummy, obvious start is when you remove the gun to find the foam does not rebound to its original shape, leaving a permanent impression of the gun instead.

I've also had a set of Uncle Mike's rubber boot grip from a Ported PC Model 60 (OEM S&W supplied with gun) just turn into a gummy mess inside the plastic PC box with egg-crate style foam.

My PCs are wrapped in VCI paper, THEN, back in the foam lined plastic box, with all papers in a zip lock behind the upper (cover) foam insulation. This stopped all the disintegration damage of the foam. The most that happens is the foam might stick to is the VCI paper. Big Deal ! peel the VCI paper off to find the gun as nice as the day you put it away.

I cannot say for sure if "this" is what stopped the Uncle Mikes boot grips from melting but it has not happened since.

__________________
ANTIQUESMITHS
LM1300 SWHF425