Ejector pin for 28-3

Carrier · #1 10-12-2017, 06:44 PM

I have a thread on one I just bought in the revolver forum that has one of the ejector pins missing. Did a search here and found several that have used a number 54 or 55 drill bit and then used loctite
One said it is .055 diameter by .200 in length. Another said .055 diameter by .0193 in length.
Yet another said .054 diameter by .0190 in length. I'm going to get several number 54 and 55 bits tomorrow and see which would work the best.
How are those pins put in at factory? Are they a press fit or staked or what? Also do you blue them before or after using loctite?
Also I noticed the other pin that is still there isn't flush with the extractor. Is that how it should be or should I make the one I'm replacing flush or the same?

Protocall_Design · #2 10-12-2017, 07:28 PM

They are usually a little below flush. The exact length isn't that critical on this part. Make the top end rounded or bullet pointed to help guide the extractor on to it.

armorer951 · #3 10-12-2017, 07:52 PM

They are .055" diameter and approx. .200" in length. The length is not too critical, but as Toolguy indicated, you don't want them to stick out the top of the extractor itself. They are press fit. I wouldn't worry about bluing them.

If you decide to use a threadlocker, use caution that the liquid doesn't get on the cylinder under the extractor body, or on the bottom of the extractor. Degrease the pin and pin hole prior to installation.

If no threadlocker is needed, I've found the easiest way to install is to place some empty casings in the extractor to line it up properly, then carefully insert the pin into the alighnment hole in the extractor and using a suitable sized pin punch, drive the pin through the extractor body down into the hole in the cylinder.

Carrier · #4 10-12-2017, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armorer951

They are .055" diameter and approx. .200" in length. The length is not too critical, but as Toolguy indicated, you don't want them to stick out the top of the extractor itself. They are press fit. I wouldn't worry about bluing them.

If you decide to use a threadlocker, use caution that the liquid doesn't get on the cylinder under the extractor body, or on the bottom of the extractor. Degrease the pin and pin hole prior to installation.

If no threadlocker is needed, I've found the easiest way to install is to place some empty casings in the extractor to line it up properly, then carefully insert the pin into the alighnment hole in the extractor and using a suitable sized pin punch, drive the pin through the extractor body down into the hole in the cylinder.

Is the .055 going to be a tight fit as I'm concerned of it not going in all the way?

armorer951 · #5 10-12-2017, 08:34 PM

The #54 drill bit shank (.055") should be a press fit in the hole if the hole is not damaged in some way. If you use a bit as the source material for the pin, make sure the shank fits through the hole in the extractor first. There should be a little gauge in the extractor hole. (a little oversize to accomodate the pin diam) Each end of the finished pin should have a very slight taper on it....break the sharp cut edge at each end.

Carrier · #6 10-12-2017, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armorer951

The #54 drill bit shank (.055") should be a press fit in the hole if the hole is not damaged in some way. If you use a bit as the source material for the pin, make sure the shank fits through the hole in the extractor first. There should be a little gauge in the extractor hole. (a little oversize to accomodate the pin diam) Each end of the finished pin should have a very slight taper on it....break the sharp cut edge at each end.

My big old gnarled up mechanic hands may have issues with a pin that small but if not ill get my son to do it.s

armorer951 · #7 10-12-2017, 09:34 PM

If you want to send me your mailing address in a PM, I'll send you a couple by mail.

Carrier · #8 10-12-2017, 10:11 PM

I appreciate that very much.

Hondo44 · #9 10-12-2017, 10:18 PM

Gunsmith tip: handle the pin with a small magnet.

Easiest way to dome both ends is to chuck up and spin it in a small power drill. Wrap 600 grit paper around a small hard surface and hold against the pin to shape while it's rotating.

tops · #10 10-13-2017, 01:46 AM

I had a 2nd model .44 that needed the pins and my brother used Lyman decapping pins and green Loctite. Worked great. Larry

Carrier · #11 10-13-2017, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by armorer951

The #54 drill bit shank (.055") should be a press fit in the hole if the hole is not damaged in some way. If you use a bit as the source material for the pin, make sure the shank fits through the hole in the extractor first. There should be a little gauge in the extractor hole. (a little oversize to accomodate the pin diam) Each end of the finished pin should have a very slight taper on it....break the sharp cut edge at each end.

Got some 54 bits today and they do not press in. They slid in very easy. Also got some 53 bits and of course they are a a few thou to large. I'm going to see if I can turn down the 53 ones and try to get a press fit.
Otherwise I will have to hope the loctite will hold the 54 one in.

Hondo44 · #12 10-13-2017, 10:41 PM

Even if the Loctite locks them in, there's no guarantee they'll be perfectly straight like press fit pins. I'd spin the 53 in a drill and sand down with crocus cloth.

Carrier · #13 10-13-2017, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hondo44

Even if the Loctite locks them in, there's no guarantee they'll be perfectly straight like press fit pins. I'd spin the 53 in a drill and sand down with crocus cloth.

I had bought several 54 bits and used the largest of them. Over .001" difference in diameter. Those Chinese bits are so accurate!! Anyways it fit in snug. Used blue loctite and no interference with extractor hole.
After I found a set of pin punches I had bought awhile ago and the smallest is what I will use if this one comes out. It goes through the extractor well and there will be a .001 or slightly larger interference fit in the cylinder.
Going to go shooting in the morning if I get time and see how it goes.

Carrier · #14 10-14-2017, 01:01 PM

Took it for a test drive this morning and all works great. Only had some 158 SWC Hornady lead over 3.5 grains of Bullseye reloads and it is way more accurate than I am. So far ejector pin I put in is working fine and will leave it till it comes out or not.

Carrier · #15 10-16-2017, 06:13 PM

Though my repair is working well thanks to many here especially armorer951 I found some new S&W pins from one of the S&W warranty shops up here and am getting 6 of them. Have more older S&W coming so I will be in good shape if it happens again.
Can't wait for the 14-3 I have coming.