I have a 929 and find the trigger pull for double action is heavy even after polishing the parts with a Dremel tool, felt wheel with metal polish, and I have put in an extended firing pin from Brownnells and an 11lb trigger return spring, after all that the double action is still heavy, any thoughts on how to remedy this? The action is now smooth and not gritty.
I still have to screw in the hammer bar screw all the way so as not to have any misfires.
I have thought of filing off some of the shoulder of the firing pin to make the pin length a few thou longer (3 to 4 thou), would that be a way of solving the problem??
I did do this to the 686 firing pin, by pinging the pin to extend the length by 3 thou. I think that is the correct terminology for tapping the pin itself on a steel bar (in my case a home made anvil) with a hammer which extends the length of the firing pin.
Any ideas or is the idea of filing the shoulder a bit on the daft side???
Regards
Marke

If the DA is too heavy the mainspring is the key item in reducing it's weight.

You didn't say what you polished but the rebound spring mainly affects the SA pull weight, not the DA pull.

Not sure what you're asking about the firing pin. How long is it? Why do you want it longer? IMO, you should not be trying to modify the firing pin, no matter what the issue. Buy a longer one if you need. The firing pin has nothing to do with the heavy DA pull, which is what you're wanting to fix, right?

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Waiting for the break of day

I polished everything that was rubbing/moving against each other that would make the trigger and action smoother to use.
I did not touch the sear.
A lot of what I did was on the Jerry Miculek trigger job DVD.
As to the mainspring, I found as you tighten the strain screw on the mainspring you increase the weight of the trigger, and as it is now the trigger in DA is heavy.
The firing pin, looking at it, the firing pin end not the striker end, if I file the shoulder part where the spring goes against down 3 thou, that will make the pin itself longer which in turn will allow the me to undo the strain screw allowing the DA to be lighter.
At the moment I do not know what the trigger weight is and I will rig something up to find the correct weight.
What is a good DA trigger weight as some shooters are saying 3 to 6 lb is ideal??

One thing you need to acquire is a GOOD trigger weight gage. My personal choice was the Lyman Digital Trigger Gage. While it was a bit more than 60 dollars when I purchased it I have used it to tune the triggers in all my 1911 pistols and all my revolvers to the same weight. BTW, in my 1911's that is 4.5 lbs. an in my S&W revolvers that is 9.0 lbs DA and 3.1 lbs. SA.

Note, some may consider a 9.0 lbs trigger to be a bit on the heavy side but recent experience with Remington UMC has proven that a 9.0 lbs. DA trigger is required for reliable ignition with the slightly "hard" Remington primers. BTW, my preferred case for reloading is Remington because they feature a very consistent 0.082 inch diameter flash hole that won't jam with the SS pins I use for wet tumbling my brass.

If you shoot only Federal ammunition you can tune the DA trigger to 8.0 lbs. with perfect reliability for ignition. If that weight is too heavy for you I would suggest either some exercise to increase strength or just admitting that your aging hands won't ever be as strong as they were when you were younger.

BTW, due to arthritis in both thumbs and both wrists I can no longer turn a wrench like I once could and have had to start using leverage enhancers so I am well aware of the limitations getting older can impose. Fortunately it has not yet had any impact on my shooting but that day may come. When that happens I'll probably change to shooting just semi's and if necessary shift away from the 45 ACP to the 9mm. Point is, if age is imposing some limitations just change your approach as needed and keep moving forward.

The correct term you are asking about for making the firing pin longer is peening.

There are many factors involved in getting a reliable, light DA pull. The absolute lowest you can get without major mods is 6 or 6.5 pounds. Here are the main things you should be doing to get as close as possible, in no particular order. The following information is to be used for TARGET SHOOTING or COMPETITION guns ONLY and NOT NOT NOT for DUTY or CARRY guns.

Primers- Firmly seated Federal primers are key to getting a light pull. They dent the easiest of all, CCI being the hardest, with everything else somwhere in between. Winchester is the next softest after Federal. I don't know about all the foreign brands.

Firing pin- An extended firing pin often helps because the factory one is too short, or the reloaded primers are below flush, the cylinder has endshake, variables in headspace or rim thickness or other issues. You already installed an extended firing pin. Don't mess with it.

Endshake- More than the absolute minimum to let the cylinder turn freely will act as a shock absorber by moving the entire cylinder assembly forward when the firing pin hits the primer. About .001 front to back movement is all you need.

Rebound spring- The rebound spring has more effect on SA than the mainspring, but it can also add a couple of pounds to the DA pull. Once you get the mainspring as light as possible, you can usually go to the lightest rebound spring and get a good, snappy trigger return. The 2 springs have to be balanced with each other for the gun to work properly.

Main spring- The mainspring can be lightened up by making a large radius bend in the middle. Then change out the strain screw for a #8-32 x 1/2" long headless socket setscrew and secure it with blue Loctite. This makes the setup adjustable so you can tune the spring for your particular gun and primers. Every gun is an individual entity.

Rebound slide/hammer interface- You can make the rebound slide rebound the hammer more easily by making a generous and highly polished radius on the corners of the bottom of the hammer and top of the rebound slide where they interact when the rebound slide is going forward.

Trigger pull gage- Get a quality trigger pull gage, either spring or digital. They are fairly inexpensive and required to know what effect your work is having on the action. It is used for 3 critical functions. They are:

1 - Checking the trigger pull for the overall pull weight.
2 - Checking the rebound spring weight with only the trigger group parts in the gun and the hammer and mainspring out.
3 - Checking the hammer tension weight by hooking the pull gage under the ledge below the firing pin on the hammer. Pull the hammer back enough to hook the gage on, then lower it to the frame. Take the reading on the scale just as the gage hook lifts off the frame. You may want to record this reading when getting 100% ignition for future reference.

There is much more involved in getting the pull under 6 lbs., but these basics will get you a pretty decent DA trigger.

Thanks for the reply's scooter123 and toolguy, I will look into buying a trigger pull gauge and also look at what you said toolguy for to the DA.
A little bit of hand exercise would not be a bad idea either.
Once again thanks for the reply's.