Got a slightly buggered yoke screw on my 1951 K22 masterpiece, gun is otherwise excellent condition..got a S&W screw coming, any tricks to replacing it? told here to try it first, maybe file down if it binds...is overall length the only issue with these screws? looks fairly easy...mechanic by trade. probably should not admit that!.....thanks

Actually, the proper way to fit the screw is to fit the button of the yoke to the unthreaded pilot on the end of the screw, not the other way around. This is done by removing material from the back side of the button. Factory fitters use a small 4" barrette file for this work. The button can also be peened at appropriate spot(s) to accomodate wear and to tighten a worn interface. (repair end shake on the yoke)

After fitting, there should be no gauge between the unthreaded end of the screw and the yoke button through the total opening/closing motion of the yoke.....and the yoke should open and close smoothly. Use a magnifier, and you should be able to see a light contact line on the back of the yoke button. This contact line is from the untreaded pilot on the end of the screw.

If the new screw is oversized, I would try the sideplate screw that is currently in the middle position above the rear of the trigger guard. This screw may work fine without any fitting at all, and you can place the new screw in it's vacated spot.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

When screws were cheap and plentiful I use to just replace them. Since I only buy vintage Smiths now, it's rare to get one with all perfect screws - very rare even if the gun is in otherwise near perfect condition.

I've taught myself how to repair almost any gun screw (with the exception of the really butchered ones) to look like factory new once again. It is a very simply procedure that requires only basic skills, a small Arkansas Stone, a few different files, fine Emory Paper and a thin jeweler's saw blade & Cold Blue.

In a nut shell I use the files and Arkansas Stone to de-burr and re-shape the screw head and deepen the slot only if necessary. I then polish, de-grease with Alcohol, heat, re-blue, oil and it's as good as new!

If you need a Nickel Plated or Stainless screw and can't get the one you need (they are getting difficult to find for some models) you can strip off the bluing of a blued screw - high polish it with a Dremel and Flits and no one will ever know it's not Nickel. For a Stainless look, just keep it to a satin finish. When high polished to replicate Nickel it won't rust because it is so finely finished.

Take a few old "junker screws" and give it a whirl! It's easy, cheap and will save you the hassle of buying and fitting replacements. PLUS...... on some older vintage Smiths even though the new replacement screws might fit, the screw slots have widened over the years. I always like keeping the originals if possible.

Once you develop this skill, you can restore ANY screw - not just on Smiths!