Need a proper fitting, non-magnetic tip screwdriver - for S&W revolver sideplate screws.

Grace USA drivers are generally recommended, but which one? Not opposed to buying a set.

So from you guys that have been there / done that, any specific recommendations? Thanks in advance!

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Regards - GCF

I bought a mini-set from Brownells; it works fine.



It was the screwdriver with three tips; I use the tips for stock removal, sideplate screw removal and replace and rear sight adjustments.

Here is a link to my set.

BROWNELLS S&W SCREWDRIVER | Brownells

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Mike
S&WCA #3065

Same as above. hardcase60

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You want me to do what?

Newer models have two different size screws, so a complete set would be my recommendation.

I have a Chapman set I got from Brownells several years ago that still serves me well.

And yes, you'll likely be better off buying a set.

Wheeler Engineering has a nice gunsmithing set for less than $30 on Amazon. A gunsmith acquaintance recommended it to me; it's what he used to get through his schooling.

Since the OP specified a non- magnetic tip screwdriver, I can give Grace a good recommendation. .. have used them for years myself with no problems. If you break one they say they will replace it. .. I've never had to test that one.
As above, I would just get the set and have done with it.
GRACE USA Grace Pistolsmith Screwdriver Set | Brownells
If I recall, Grace used to offer to grind blades to custom dimensions, but I don't see that on their site any more. But you will probably get a good fit from at least one in their pistol smith set. And they are very easy to thin a little with a fine file. I think you will like the Grace products.

Ones that fit the slots properly! They are not all the same so a specific screwdriver or bit number cannot be given!

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Gunsmithing since 1961

I'm curious, why non-magnetic? The Brownells S&W screwdriver has 4 tips (or at least they used to) that fit nearly everything on the revolvers and the magnetic feature has saved me from chasing screws on numerous occasions. Also helps getting screws started when the fingers aren't being too cooperative.

Perhaps someone could write a "sticky" about the different screwdriver options and vendors. This question seems to come up every few days.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I do not know exactly what your intentions are and which era guns and models you intend on working on. In short, the Grace Screwdriver set is good and the Brownell's Bits are better - IMO.

S&W HAS changed their screws over the years and so different era guns will have a little different sized slots.I find the older vintage examples tend to have thinner slots and they have also used different suppliers over the years so screw slots do vary.

The Brownell's Bits run only a few bucks each - so if you need to properly fit one to a specific screw it's no big deal. Why grind up a Grace fixed blade screwdriver that costs 3 timed that and then you will have to buy a new one?? The Brownell's Bits are also better tempered (IMO) and guaranteed against breakage and twisting for life. You don't even need to return said Bit - just a quick call and Brownell's will send a new one out.

Brownell's has a much larger size variety and IMO are more finely ground and more precise. Now as far as the Non-Magnetic feature, if that is what you want Brownell's sells Non Magnetic handles. Personally I like the Magnetic "Law Enforcement Modlel" but that is my personal choice. It's convenient to be able to just use the Screwdriver as a handy "picker-upper" when grabbing small screws off the bench.

Last but not least, The Brownell's set is so much more compact to store. One handle and a box of many many Bits take up very little space in a tool box or gun bag. The Grace set takes up a lot of space as each one has a handle. Ultimately = your choice of course.

I will give another vote for screwdriver sets with removable bits. I have had a Wheeler set with 60 bits for a number of years. I have heard people debate about the quality of these bits, but this set has worked fine for me.

Recently, I went to disassemble a Smith & Wesson revolver, and I found one screw where I could not find a screwdriver that was a good fit. I have disassembled a good number of revolvers, and this has not happened before, so I definitely became aware that the screw heads have changed over time. There was one screwdriver in the set that was almost an acceptable fit, but it was really not good enough, so I ground a bit down to make a perfect fit.

So overall, having a large set of screwdriver bits has served me well, but I still have occasionally needed to grind a bit. I don't think that a smaller set would be sufficient for my needs.

As an aside, none of Brownells Magna Tip bits are magnetic. Some of their handles are magnetic----and any bit inserted therein is then also. A bit used over time with a magnetic handle acquires/sustains enough magnetism to be handy---or a pain in the butt---depending on your point of view/the task at hand. Any bit which has become magnetized can be demagnetized simply by passing it through a simple/cheap tool.

The fail-safe solution is one set of bits and an assortment of handles---magnetized and not. I have a complete set of bits---have had for years. Yes, I have bits I've never used---and very likely never will use. On the other hand, I've never come across a screw I didn't have a bit to fit. And I too have the grinding wheels furnished to modify the bits---and have never used them either.

The right tool for the job make for an easy job. Otherwise makes for trouble.

Ralph Tremaine

I touched on that in my post above - stated the Handle is magnetic but maybe you are correct in thinking some guys don't understand exactly.

I also have a full assortment of handles (6 - 7 I believe) but the Magnetic L/E model is the go-to and the one I usually reco. to Newbies. Occasionally when I am using 2 or 3 different bits on the same gun repeatedly and am too lazy to spend the 2 seconds it requires to swap bits, I'll grab another handle or two so I don't need to swap. That said, the ones that are non magnetic rarely get used in my shop. I have some of the retaining clip type as well and am not a fan of those.

Here's the way I look at it... I see little conflict between magnetic replaceable bits and classic wood or plastic handled screwdrivers. They are both quality products and both can work well. So get which ever floats your boat. Personally, I just love tools of all sorts, I've been into this for over 50 years and I have a somewhat eclectic collection that fills 12 tool boxes of various sizes in two shops. I've used and like both Brownells and Grace products, along with several screwdrivers I've made from scratch, and I appreciate them all. But there is something about the Grace one's... wood handles, classic blades and shape, etc., that takes me back. Back to when tools weren't cheap and disposable, we're carefully used and cared for, and we're expected to last well in the hands of a careful workman. I'm 70 now and can show you several things in my collection that are more than 50 years old and still working. I know everybody has their "thing," and that's just me I guess.

In short, they are easier for me to use - w/ precision.

Sometimes a tip held in place w/ a magnetized handle, can have a mind of it's own. Not good - especially when the bit thickness / width fitment is less then optimum, for the job at hand.

That all said, I do get that there are times when a magnetized driver can be a BIG advantage. I am a field service technician by trade, & use them "almost" exclusively in my business.

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Regards - GCF

I have the same one and comes with the 150-3 bit for newer model side plate screws. I ordered the 150-2 bit that fits the older models.

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"Happiness is a warm gun"

One of the driver / bit sets in my current arsenal, is an old Chapman - gifted to me, by a business associate.

Although small, it's a nice set, & non-magnetic. Uses ball detentes (never seen another like it), to keep the bits in place. This provides a fairly high degree of precision, as the bits don't wiggle around - like my Magna set.

Unfortunately, most of the bits in the set are hex head - which doesn't help much, w/ S&W revolver screws. Maybe I should check out Chapman, to see if they still offer detente style, precision bits...

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Regards - GCF

Good info...

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Regards - GCF

Frankly the more I consider everyone's input, I'm thinking that I may well end up w/ both the Grace Pistolsmith set, & the Brownells LE set - w/ an extra bit or two - as required.

I'm w/ you - regarding quality wood handled drivers. I've got a number of (plastic handle) quality drivers in my field service tool box, but my favorite small straight blade, is wood handled (no name visible), may be 30+ years old, & surprisingly, still in excellent working condition.

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Regards - GCF

Excellent idea. Good tools give service and pleasure for a long time, and are never a waste of money.....

Well, all good points to be considered. Thanks to you (& everyone else, as well) for the valuable input.

My criteria:
1. Quality American made - preferably.
2. Proper fitment - blade length x width / hollow ground / parallel
sides.
3. Correctly tempered.
4. Precise tolerances - IMHO, bits that wiggle in a loose magnetic handle, are another accident waiting to happen.

For the record, & without listing the entire herd, my primary interest is 70's - 90's vintage J, K, L, & N frames. Sole exception is an M&P340.

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Regards - GCF

You guys have got to stop this kind of talk. I ended up going online to Brownells and order a 50 + dollar set of screw drivers. I new I needed them. Had to have them. Is there no end.

Use the bit that fits best. You will have to "try" the ones you have. Old screws may have had slots dressed with a Swiss needle file and be wider than normal. Replacement screws may have different width slots...screws are "like a box of chocolates" . There have been times when no driver fits perfectly, then you grind a new tip to fit that slot.
Don't try to use a bit that is too small....then you get to bugger a screw head and have to learn how to fix them...trust me I have experienced all this and learned the " Hard Way ".
The upside is I can now repair buggered screw heads like a champ !

Is there no end....of course not....you will get to know the meaning of the term "Money Pit" , but it's a fun hobby.
Gary

I was in the same quandry, and wanted enough bits to work on my Smiths, amongst others. I asked the fine folks here, and ended up ordering a large set of Magna Tips from Brownells. The price stung at first, but that pain is now forgotten. However, the joy of seeing and using them whenever I open that kit hasn't gotten old. Buy once, cry once, and all that....

Chapman is still in business and sells screwdriver bits that should work for you.
Chapman MFG 5589 Ultimate Gunsmith Slotted + Star/Torx Screwdriver Set – Chapman Manufacturing

I personally never cared for the interchangable bit screwdriver sets. I have always used just plain old 'screwdrivers' and have a bench full of them.

If anything it shows the need for a lot of options as they say today!.
Wether you use one of the interchangeable bit sets (or two) or a cluster of mismatched old drivers like I do,,one thing is for sure is that you'll need them all and then some.

Save the cheap soft ones for opening cans, spreading solder flux and digging dandellions from the lawn. They'll do more damage than good work for you on screws.
,,and don't be shy about reshaping a good one to fit a specific screw slot when you need to.

Don't overheat if you grind them to shape. You should be able to file them too. The best should be just spring temper and a sharp file will still cut it.
I file shape most of mine when I need to.
Grinding I avoid but when I do I use a belt grinder w/a coarse belt instead of a grinding wheel, Runs cooler, cuts quick and has much less chance of burning/overheating.
Everyone has their own way of doing things,,good results and undamaged screw slots are what matter.

Demagnitize any of them by passing it into and back out of a common soldering gun loop,,with the trigger pulled of course!.