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11-20-2017, 01:28 PM
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Internal Lock Question
I have a 686 with a 2.5” barrel. I have filed down the locking lug from the flag to disable the internal lock. While this worked perfectly, I was wondering if the “plug” can be installed while leaving the flag in place. With the flag removed, I just don’t like the idea of a gap that size between the hammer and the frame. Also, any ides to keep that tiny spring at the bottom of the flag in place so I don’t need to worry about it working loose and causing more potential problems?
Thanks for the input
John
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11-20-2017, 01:52 PM
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Just replace the entire I.L. with the "Plug".
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11-20-2017, 02:03 PM
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The plug I used replaced the internal lock parts. I'm pretty sure any of the plugs sold do.
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Last edited by Tom S.; 11-20-2017 at 02:04 PM.
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11-20-2017, 02:05 PM
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To answer your question-NO. I see no reason to do anything further regarding the lock-you took care of the problem-I'd leave it alone.
(Actually what I would do is call Smith and tell them that you bought it without the lock parts and you want to send it back to get the parts putin. I bet you a dollar to a donut that they won't charge for the parts. BUT if you send it back with the altered parts in it, they will exchange flags and keep the ground down one.
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11-20-2017, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAJUNLAWYER
To answer your question-NO. I see no reason to do anything further regarding the lock-you took care of the problem-I'd leave it alone.
(Actually what I would do is call Smith and tell them that you bought it without the lock parts and you want to send it back to get the parts putin. I bet you a dollar to a donut that they won't charge for the parts. BUT if you send it back with the altered parts in it, they will exchange flags and keep the ground down one.
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Thanks, I guess I’ll just keep the nonfunctioning lock in. I just wanted the plug and my modified flag at the same time. If I remove the flag that leaves a gaping slot between the hammer and the frame which I do not want. I already fixed the lock problem by removing the lug on the back of the flag. This is just purely for cosmetics reasons.
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11-20-2017, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyj
Just replace the entire I.L. with the "Plug".
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Which in my gun will leave a gap between the frame and the hammer, and to me that looks worse than the hole if I removed the lock.
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11-20-2017, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom S.
The plug I used replaced the internal lock parts. I'm pretty sure any of the plugs sold do.
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But do you have a gap between the frame and the hammer where the flag used to be?
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11-20-2017, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBTJ
I have filed down the locking lug from the flag to disable the internal lock. While this worked perfectly,With the flag removed, I just don’t like the idea of a gap that size between the hammer and the frame.
Thanks for the input
John
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My Mod 60 has had the flag removed for years and it has been carried and shot with never any lint problems.
I hope you don't need to send it in for any reason as S&W will not look kindly at the modified safety component. I can just put mine back in.
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11-20-2017, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigggbbruce
My Mod 60 has had the flag removed for years and it has been carried and shot with never any lint problems.
I hope you don't need to send it in for any reason as S&W will not look kindly at the modified safety component. I can just put mine back in.
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In my 45 years of owning guns, I've never sent any gun back to the manufacture for any reason. I either fix it myself or take it to a gunsmith I know and trust, then again, I’ve never had any problems out of any of my guns that would have needed to be sent back. My issue is not lint or dirt or anything else but purely cosmetics.
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11-20-2017, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBTJ
I have a 686 with a 2.5” barrel. I have filed down the locking lug from the flag to disable the internal lock. While this worked perfectly, I was wondering if the “plug” can be installed while leaving the flag in place. With the flag removed, I just don’t like the idea of a gap that size between the hammer and the frame. Also, any ides to keep that tiny spring at the bottom of the flag in place so I don’t need to worry about it working loose and causing more potential problems?
Thanks for the input
John
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There are plenty of larger places for lint and dust to enter than the thin slot the flag removal will leave so don't fret about that. ANY gun (even older ones) eventually need to be stripped down, cleaned and lightly lubed. Dust always finds a way in.
If it were mine I'd get all the I/L components out and install the Plug, but that's just my opinion of course. I only buy older pre-lock guns and so I never have to deal with the I/L.
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11-20-2017, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief38
There are plenty of larger places for lint and dust to enter than the thin slot the flag removal will leave so don't fret about that. ANY gun (even older ones) eventually need to be stripped down, cleaned and lightly lubed. Dust always finds a way in.
If it were mine I'd get all the I/L components out and install the Plug, but that's just my opinion of course. I only buy older pre-lock guns and so I never have to deal with the I/L.
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I have several pre lock smiths and this is my first. Don't suppose you have a pic looking down on the hammer and frame with the flag removed do ya? Just want to see what the gap looks like without the flag. Again, dirt and lint are the least of my concerns, it's how the gun looks with the missing part.
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11-22-2017, 05:17 PM
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The missing flag is barely noticeable to me.
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11-22-2017, 05:44 PM
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I have a L and a N frame with lock removed and plug added. Both showed signs of the hammer rubbing on the flag. Per trigger pull gauge, the poundage didn’t change. The DA pull did seem slightly smoother. That may be because I wanted it to feel better!
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