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Old 03-31-2018, 07:15 PM
Theodoric Theodoric is offline
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Default Problem with new 617?

So, I need expert advice and thought of this forum first. I've had my new 617 for maybe two months. In that time I've put 500-800 rounds through it (all standard velocity CCI and Federal). While cleaning it today after a range session I noticed something that doesn't look right on the yoke barrel. I can only describe it as looking like melted metal. The area where this has occurred on the yoke barrel matches up to directly below the forcing cone when the cylinder is closed. Looking closer, I also saw this "melting" had happened on the yoke barrel flange as well. I have also noticed an unusual amount of top strap etching above the forcing cone. I have other centerfire Smith & Wessons that are decades old that show much less top strap damage than this new revolver. I will try to upload photos of what I'm talking about. Your advice greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:42 PM
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I believe what you've both described and photographed is simple lead splash. It WILL come off if you go to enough effort in cleaning. You don't HAVE TO though. It will have no adverse effect on the operation of your revolver.

Best of luck.
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:47 PM
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It looks to me like it is shaving lead. Either a slight misalignment of cylinder or a timing issue. Also, how is the forcing cone of the barrel, is there a beveled lead at the breach end? I have seen some that had almost no bevel at all which adds to the problem. This may be a case for return to S&W. I'd call them and see what they say.

It can be cleaned off with soaking in a good solution and brushing it off, but that doesn't address the problem.
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:47 PM
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Your advice greatly appreciated.
Keep cleaning.. you 'aint done yet..
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:48 PM
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It looks to me like it is shaving lead. Either a slight misalignment of cylinder or a timing issue. Also, how is the forcing cone of the barrel, is there a beveled lead at the breach end? I have seen some that had almost no bevel at all which adds to the problem. This may be a case for return to S&W. I'd call them and see what they say.

It can be cleaned off with soaking in a good solution and brushing it off, but that doesn't address the problem.
I don't own any 10 shot any more... just plain dirty shootin' ***'s..IMHO
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:55 PM
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D Brown is correct,my 617 has some lead in same areas but not quite as bad as your pictures , mostly the top strap area,after 100 or more rounds. First time I shot my new 617 I also thought something was not right and took back to my dealer and he said it’s lead don’t worry. I use a spent 22 mag cartridge that I put the end of case in vise and flatten the end to make a lead scraper that gets the job done. I put some Kroil or Hopps on leaded area then scrape the lead away.

Last edited by BuckeyeS&W; 03-31-2018 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 03-31-2018, 08:02 PM
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Default More words of reassurance.

The debris about the forcing cone and the underneath side of the top strap above the forcing cone is normal. I just finished cleaning a Model 617 and it looked like yours. A brass tool and/or a brass brush and a good cleaning solvent will get it clean for you.
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Old 03-31-2018, 08:04 PM
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That doesnít look to bad at all for that many rounds . Revolvers will always have some gas/lead escape at the barrel cylinder gap , and the build up will be worse with H.V. Ammo.
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:00 PM
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I guess I've never shot enough rimfire revolvers to encounter this issue. But I've never had this problem with my model 17. I'll try cleaning this stuff off. Any recommendations on a lead removal product?

thanks,
Theodoric
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:12 PM
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Take a spent piece of brass, flatten the open end with a pair of pliers and use it to scrape off the lead. The brass is soft and won’t damage the gun parts.
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Old 04-01-2018, 08:27 AM
g8rb8 g8rb8 is offline
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I guess I've never shot enough rimfire revolvers to encounter this issue. But I've never had this problem with my model 17. I'll try cleaning this stuff off. Any recommendations on a lead removal product?

thanks,
Theodoric
About any solvent will work well.
Hoppe's, G96, M-Pro, and CLP have worked well for me.
About any brass tool will work well. Brass won't scratch the stainless steel.
Brass brush, brass scraper (brass slotted head screw driver), or larger caliber brass rifle cartridge flatted and bent to an accommodating angle have all worked well for me.

Liberally apply solvent of choice to area of concern. Wait a few seconds to a few minutes, then use the brass tool of choice to facilitate removal of the debris and apply elbow grease. Repeat until desired effect is reached.
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Old 04-01-2018, 08:31 AM
Theodoric Theodoric is offline
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Thanks for the replies. I'll make a brass tool today.
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