What is the proper use of the paper that comes with Smith & Wesson revolvers? The one that is shiny on one side?

Is it to be used after purchase? I assume new revolvers came wrapped in it with a coat of oil on them to prevent rust, and the paper kept the oil from staining everything else.

I see one can buy new sheets of it. So what is the ongoing proper use for it, if any?

Lastly, with guns that came with wooden presentation cases, were they shipped in the case with the paper wrapped around them to prevent them from staining the flocking?

Does anyone continue to use the paper to keep from staining the flocking in presentation cases to this day? I have three reflocked cases Joe CeBull did and want to keep them as pristine as possible. All my revolvers are nickle or stainless, and I do not keep them in the S&W cases, they are in Pelican cases.

Thank you for any information, much appreciated.

The paper can provide protection to the surface of the revolver. The oldest revolvers I have that have continually resided in cardboard boxes wrapped in the S&W paper are from the 1970's and as they approach 50 years old the finish is holding up perfectly well.

My dad has some S&W revolvers in blue plastic S&W cases with foam inserts that are wrapped in S&W paper from the 1990's and as they approach about 25 years old their finish appears as new. I've encouraged him to store them outside the foam lined cases but with 25 years of success it's hard to argue against it.

There seems to be a general consensus about foam liners. Keep the surface of your firearms away from the foam as the foam may absorb moisture and transfer that to the surface of the firearm and create rust. The S&W paper probably creates a safe interface between the foam and the surface of the firearm.

There also is a definite consensus about presentation cases with flocking. GET YOUR REVOLVER OUT OF THOSE CASES. There's been plenty of pictures of revolvers with finish damage related to residing in the boxes with flocking.

If you're wondering about long term storage there's a lot of methods but there seems to be agreement that Bore Stores is a good way to do so but certainly not the only method. I have some 50 year firearms that have resided in an old sock with no issues.

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Scoundrel & Ne'er-Do-Well

Generically known as vapor corrosion inhibitor or VCI paper. Good information from g8rb8 above - the plastic liners in the Presentation cases are fragile and the flocking sticks to metal like crazy. Made for temporary display but not storage .

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

If you can't find another use for those papers, they can be used as a very poor substitute for corn cobs on field trips. OBTW be sure to use the fuzzy side, to gain ultimate purchase

The protective Gun Wrap Paper that comes with S&W firearms emits a chemical to protect metal for a certain amount of time. Some say the protection lasts 10 - 15 years and some claim it is all gone after only a few years. Since I use my guns on a regular basis, the paper usually gets beat up, torn and soft in 4 or 5 years so I replace it. I get new VOC Paper from S&W in bulk and store it in an air tight heavy duty bag where I hope it retains its protective qualities. Similar paper is also sold by Brownell's and Midway-USA but does not have the S&W logo on it of course.

If I buy a vintage gun and the original paper is still there in the box, I'll fold it up to store in the box but use a newer piece for protection. S&W protective paper has changed many times over the years so if you get a vintage piece with a gun it's worth preserving IMO.

S&W is not the only Company that uses this stuff, however some Company's are now just wiping their guns with an oil and sticking them in a plastic bag for shipping.

Have the markings on the paper changed over the rears. In other words can you identify the paper to an era.

Yes - they have changed. Not only have the marking changed but the logo ink color and paper itself has changed. The older vintage paper is lighter in color, has a more waxy texture and was a little larger.

The paper as changed more than once over the years, as I'd bet it has been manufactured by many different Company's. I am not an expert in the VOC paper - however I'm sure there are guys here who are!

I use borestores and light oil. However, on a few collectibles, I have used Renwax, which would not leave a residue.

Right or wrong I always applied the paper around gun stored in Mahogany cases with lettering out. Never had any frocking stick to the bluing?
Steve

Vapor Phase Corrosion Inhibiting (VPCI) wrapping paper is impregnated with a compound containing any of several organic amines, usually cyclohexylamine carbonate. The amine is released slowly and forms a very thin waxy protective coating on the metal which seals the surface. It does have a definite service life, usually around 5 years, but that may depend on factors such as the specific VP compound and storage conditions such as temperature and how well the VPCI is sealed. In one form or another, VPCIs have been used since WWII. There are many sources for VPCI materials, not all of which are paper. The intent is to provide metal protection during product shipping, not for extremely extended storage periods. And S&W did use different-appearing VPCI papers at different times. A purist collector of NIB and ANIB S&W guns would want to see the correct paper in the box, even though it is probably ineffective in preventing corrosion due to its age. At one time when I was working for the USAF I did a study on using VPCI impregnated plastic storage envelopes for long term weapons storage. I still have a few of those plastic envelopes, but they are now so old their effectiveness is probably gone.

We did lots of government -military parts shipping and they demanded a procedure to package all parts .Including vapor paper.If you have any source to a Gov.contract shipper they would give or sell you good vapor paper

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age is just a number

I have bought some safe queens that have had slight abrasions from the inside of their cardboard box while being transported. Also, cardboard, paper, and foam will absorb some humidity if exposed since they are all porous to some degree. I have stored mine with wax or a thin layer of quality gun oil wrapped loosely (not air tight) in Saran Wrap. I then put the firearm back into its original box with its factory vapor paper folded neatly under the gun. I keep the abrasions from happening and any other contaminates minimized with the wrap. I also prefer to store the guns with the box they came in since it reduces storage area and keeps the set together. Learned this from a guy who stored about 30 German Lugers in their original leather holsters for decades without damage since they were in Saran wrap.

bwade

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Blaine
SWCA 3490 SWHF 586