I'll also point out something about the bobbed hammer. You can get a cylinder locked up by high primers, cratered primers and other causes where you can't rotate the cylinder by pulling the trigger. On the other hand, a manly yank on the hammer spur will generally rotate the cylinder and get you back in play. No spur, no quick fix.
I would beware the guns with "some gunsmith work done to it" unless the price is right. My last project gun (price was right and I have the tools & skills) involved replacing the locking bolt and spring, the cylinder stop and spring, the hammer, fitting a straight ejector rod, fitting an oversize hand and balancing the springs. Yes, it was presented as a "properly tuned gun" and the hammer bob was the only "work" done well.
OP, if you're not willing to send it off for work by a skilled craftsman/woman, change springs or deburr parts (that last is probably a good thing if you're), about your only option is to contact the guy you traded with and request your old gun back. A whole lot of dry fire generally does what a deburring process does, but it takes time and effort.
Last edited by WR Moore; 04-11-2018 at 09:10 AM.
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