WHEN AND HOW TO USE GUN OIL-NOW THAT WE HAVE READ 1,000 THREADS ON FAVORITES

[chief38]

It seems the "Gun Oil" threads pop-up every week or two and I suppose since there are always new comers to this Forum it might serve a purpose. As we have all seen by now, it is a very subjective subject and my opinion is that while we each have our favorite libations, more importantly than which brand, is how and when they should be used. That said, I figured I'd put a new slant on and old subject - so here goes........

First off left me clarify that I am talking Gun Oils here, not Solvents (that are meant for cleaning only). Oils are meant basically for rust prevention and lubrication purposes although sometimes a Gun Oil will effectively clean too if a guns barrel is not fouled badly.

IMHO, ANY Oil should be used sparingly! Once the surface of the metal is coated, any extra oil applied is a waste. Oil does not remain layered and so if too much is applied, all you will wind up getting is a gloppy mess. Too much oil attracts dust, unburnt powder, and any debris that is airborne, so use Oils sparingly.

The important parts to lubricate are the moving ones. Anything that moves around, back and forth or anyway against another piece creates friction and resistance. Lightly oiling them will reduce friction, reduce wear and keep operation smooth. ONE DROP on each moving part is all that is required. More is NOT better!

Putting a very light coat of oil inside of a gun will also retard rust from forming - but this must be a very light coat. Having puddles of Oil inside a gun is NOT GOOD! and in the long run will create a mess and cutting action after it has picked up debris. A little goes a long way. My personal favorite for the inside of a Revolver is something like Rig #2 Oil (in the 4.5 ounce can) or Remoil simply because they are so thin and evaporate but leave a layer of protection inside. I do not like coating the innards with thick oils or grease as they attract everything you don't want them to.

I go to a Fabric Store once every 5 years or so and get a roll of 100% Cotton Flannel. I cut the Flannel into 18" X 18" pieces and make oil rags out of them. The important thing here is to get a good resealable thick (freezer style) Zip Lock bag to keep the oil rag in so the oil does not evaporate between usages. Use your favorite Gun Oil and apply liberally to the rag. You need not coat every single inch of the rag because it will migrate once you fold it and place it in its bag. I keep one or two in my Range Bag and another few around my Work Shop and Garage. They are great for wiping down tools, drill bits, machinery, yard tools, or what ever tends to rust. I always wipe my tools down before placing back in to my tool boxes. I also wipe down a firearm every time I handle it, show it to a friend, or store them. If firearms are not used often, it is also a good idea to take them out every 6 month and wipe them down again - takes only a minute or so for each one.
When the rag gets dirty - just toss it or use it out in the Garage (when bought in bulk, the Flannel is cheap)!

I have made up these rags and given them to my close shooting Buddies to apply and use them with their favorite Gun Oil - since they always were borrowing mine anyway. Now they have their own personal wipe down cloths and don't need to borrow mine. When the rag drys out eventually, just squirt or spray on a little more oil.

One of the most important things you can do is immediately after shooting and safety clearing your firearm (while it's still warm), wipe it down with your Oil Rag before putting it back into its case, sock, or Range Bag. This way you get most of the debris, powder residue, finger prints, moisture etc. off the gun before you even get it home. The sooner you remove all the bad stuff the better off you are and cleaning it once you get home is that much easier. It also prevents your gun from getting scratched up inside its rug or case and the case will over time pick up some of the oil and IMO that is a good thin layer of protection also.

Areas you do NOT want oil in, is in the Cylinder Charge Holes of a Revolver or in the inside of a Magazine on carry or SD guns. Oil can affect Primer reliability - just so you know. When I store a Revolver I do put a light coat of oil inside the Charge Holes, but NOT on carry or SD guns - just Range guns.

So this is what came to mind after reading a gazillion Oil Threads - I hope it helps some along the way although all the seasoned guys here probably know all this stuff already.

Regards,
Chief38

[old pipefitter]

Thanks chief38. I like the idea of a flannel gun rag. I wonder if Wally World might have some cheap flannel

[chief38]

Originally Posted by old pipefitter

Thanks chief38. I like the idea of a flannel gun rag. I wonder if Wally World might have some cheap flannel

Good quality 100% Cotton Flannel can be gotten very reasonably at a Fabric Store. I'd also suggest White so you can clearly see how dirty it is and white does not contain any dyes.

Old cotton Flannel shirts work adequately (remove buttons before using), BUT you can't really tell how dirty they are as their patterns "disguise" dirt.

I forgot to mention that when I wipe down a gun (in safe) that has not been shot for a while, I use a new clean oil rag as opposed to one in my Range bag that has contaminants all over it.

[stansdds]

I nominate Chief38's post for sticky status!

[oddshooter]

NEVER on a wooden grip.
Turns them black over time.

Use Renaissance Wax instead.

[scoobysnacker]

Real simple, inexpensive, high quality chemicals...

-auto parts store brand brake cleaner to clean. If you're going to clean in bulk, fill a coffee can or large pickle jar with lamp oil (kerosene but less smelly) and ATF, soak the stripped guns awhile, then wipe down and let dry.

Food-grade synthetic compressor oil to lube and protect, will have all the necessary additives to protect from rust, corrosion and wear. Made to protect metal from far more adverse conditions than a gun will ever see. Food grade means non toxic (you can ingest if you like, so getting it on skin isn't a problem). Find me any gun short of a machine gun that faces more friction than a compressor.

Johnson's Paste Wax for wood, and if you decide you want to wax the externals of your gun. Fraction of the cost of Renwax, works just as well.

[Jeppo]

Originally Posted by old pipefitter

Thanks chief38. I like the idea of a flannel gun rag. I wonder if Wally World might have some cheap flannel

They do sell 100% cotton bath towels stupid cheap.

[jbtrucker]

Small bottle Hoppes9 , 16 oz can Rem oil for small bottle and spray bottle refill, 12 pk micro fiber cloths and 500 count bag of cotton patches. All items bought on sale last year and maybe used a 1/4 of what I have. I was very confused when purchased first pistol several years ago. Some say slop oil all over, others advised little. I decided to go by the manuals along with instructions by gunblue490 and sooch00 on You Tube.

[Harkrader]

I put a drop in each ear, sniff a little off my finger into each nostril, and one drop on the back of my tongue. No troubles so far.

[THE PILGRIM]

My Bro and I used our Mother’s sewing machine oil as gun oil.
It worked great until she discovered that she was out of oil.

[bulletslap]

To apply oil, I use a boar bristle shaving brush, onto which I put a few drops of oil. Generally Clenzoil or Ballistol for blued firearms. It puts enough oil on the weapon without putting too much, and evenly distributes the oil into the nooks and crannies.

Then a quick wipe with a clean rag.

To clean the brush every now and then just swish it around ina can of Mineral Spirits.

I picked this up from my Father who was Brown Shoe Army.

[chief38]

Originally Posted by bulletslap

To apply oil, I use a boar bristle shaving brush, onto which I put a few drops of oil. Generally Clenzoil or Ballistol for blued firearms. It puts enough oil on the weapon without putting too much, and evenly distributes the oil into the nooks and crannies.

Then a quick wipe with a clean rag.

To clean the brush every now and then just swish it around ina can of Mineral Spirits.

I picked this up from my Father who was Brown Shoe Army.

Up until a few years ago I use to use a shaving brush to apply Rig Universal Grease - I then discovered that it left loose bristles in the guns I was applying it on - so if you do use the Boar Brush, keep an eye out for loose bristles.

[chief38]

Originally Posted by Jeppo

They do sell 100% cotton bath towels stupid cheap.

The problem with bath towels is that they hold too much dirt and debris which in turn can scratch a guns finish after they are used a few times and are not nearly as soft as Flannel. They are also hard to determine when to toss whereas Flannel is smooth, soft and thin enough to be able to see the condition of the material. Flannel is also thin enough to get into the small areas and crevices.

At the local Fabric Store I paid $18 for 5 yards x 1 yard = or 45 square feet. If you cut that into 18" x 18" rags, it makes up into 20 individual rags - cheap enough. Basically they are under $1 each! I also use Pinking Shears when cutting them to keep them from fraying.