I am currently restoring a M10-6 and have noticed the trigger rebound slide frame stud was slightly bent enough to prevent the side plate from being installed. According to my S&W shop manual, the frame stud can be gently tapped into position using a brass punch. My question:

Will moving the stud back to position compromise its integrity? Can I still trust it not to fail?

Thanks for any insights.

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The picture you posted makes it impossible to judge the level of the stud's damage. Did you have it completely disassembled at some point? Does the revolver function with the bent stud? If so, I recommend leaving it alone.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

Leaving it alone is not an option if it won't allow the side plate to go back on. Steel is fairly forgiving and takes either some force, wear or work hardening my repeated movement to break, I would tap it back into place myself.

Don't operate the actions of S&W revolver with the spring in place and the side plate off. If you want to check stuff use your fingers to move the parts. Be careful when you pop the trigger return spring and mechinish off and on.

Sorry. I should have mentioned that the stud was 1/16" to 3/32" off center, i.e. angled away from the rebound slide. The picture shows the stud now in proper position. Everything functions as it should.

My only concern is having been moved back then forward (even slightly) will the steel be compromised/weaker to the point it could fail? Sorry, but I don't know the 'science' of metals.

If it don't break in say 100 dry fires I don't think it will fail. With the side platr on it is supported on both ends. Bending metal causes it to work harden, become brittle and fail. One bend out and another back in should not be enough to cause a piece of steel to break unless it was hardened and left in a extremely hard state. Like a file or sear or the like. Believe it or not most gun parts are relatively soft. I have checked a few frames and they were all close to the same hardness as mild steel, but there is a lot more to the strength of a steel and its heat treatment than hardness.
I highly doubt the pin was hardened. It would actually be counter productive to its particular function.

Thank you for the replies. Since the stud was moved very little, your comments are encouraging. I'll be taking my "parts gun" to the range tomorrow and seeing how it works.

I'm still missing something. Was the sideplate in its correct position before you began restoration? If so, then I imagine the stud got bent a bit during your work...enough so the sideplate wouldn't go back on. Is that right?

All's well that ends well.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

No, it was bent when I got it. It was in pieces, in a box. Previous owner said it was a police trade-in years ago. I had to replace/fit several parts. Fortunately I have been acquiring K-frame parts for years.

As of now, everything works fine; locks up tight, timing is spot-on for all 6 chambers. We'll see at the range.

Just got back from the range. My $100 Model 10-6 works wonderfully!!!

The restoration project/putting it back together went smoother than I thought it would, with the exception of the bent stud. I had to provide/replace the following:

trigger
DA sear
ejector rod
rebound spring
hand (oversized)

It locks up tight, and the timing is spot-on all 6 chambers. The sights have a POI a little to the right, but that could be me (my 67 year old eyes you know).

For reference, the load I was shooting is the classic 150gr LRN pushed by 2.7 gr of Bullseye.

So, not bad for $100 and a little work?

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Lookin' good!

Model 10 HB's are the cats pj's to shoot. Nice save. And I learned something along with you on gently moving the frame stud, thanks to our resident and aptly named steelslaver

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Some collect art; I shoot it!