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Old 06-11-2018, 12:02 PM
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Default Update .... Model 28 Hard to Cock Back to Single Action

Picked up a S s/n Model 28, Took her to the range and it was a bugger to cock back into single action, took her home, took off side plate and she was dirty. Cleaned her up and back to the range. Same problem. Any ideas ? Thanks in Advance.

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Last edited by Raystown; 06-17-2018 at 12:04 PM. Reason: Update
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:10 PM
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If you open the cylinder does it turn freely ? When open pull the cylinder release back and pull the hammer back. Does that make any difference ?

When you were inside, with the mainspring removed does it act the same ? Should be free and easy to operate.
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:24 PM
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It sounds as if it might not have been assembled correctly by the previous owner?

If it were my revolver I'd completely disassemble it and soak all the metal parts in K1 kerosene for a few days and then lube and reassemble.

The rebound slide and spring needs disassembly.There may be a small pin inside the spring limiting travel that's jammed with crude.

Be careful of the tiny springs in the bolt plunger and cylinder stop.
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Old 06-11-2018, 01:51 PM
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Another thing to check,,make sure the main spring strain screw on the front of the grip frame in screwed in all the way,,,or it may have been shortened and it looks like it's in all the way but it's too short.

Either condition can keep the main spring from having enough of a bowed shape to it inside. The mid point on the length of the spring will then hit the inside of the grip strap as the hammer nears full cock.

(The hard to cock feel from this usually shows up in SA but not DA at the same time because the hammer is pulled further to the rear in SA operation than it travels in DA operation. The mainspring is not jammed against the frame in the slightly lesser traveled DA operation)

Turn the adjustment screw back in all the way if that's the problem.
If that screw has been shortened for some reason, sometimes a spacer placed betw the tip of it and the mainspring will bring the necessary length back into the equation.
A fired metalic cartridge primer with the anvil removed and slipped over the tip of the screw often works well.
You can also gain some small amt of extra travel on that screw by removing mat'rl from the bottom face of the head.
Don't take off too much and get too close to the slot and weaken the screw head.
Last resort,,a new mainspring adj screw,,pretty common item.

Just my thoughts..

Last edited by 2152hq; 06-11-2018 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 06-11-2018, 04:16 PM
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Does it function correctly when it's empty?
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 1sailor View Post
Does it function correctly when it's empty?

Seems to function better when empty, but still feel like its holding up. Not every time i cock it. It will feel tight like every 4 -5 time its cocked.
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:54 PM
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Swing the cylinder out, hold the thumb piece back and cock the pistol. Looking across the breech face, is the hand flush or does it protrude even a little bit. If it protrudes at all it could well be your problem. As the cylinder turns the next round in line will get snagged by the hand as it comes around. My M686 did the same thing and it drove me nuts. Once diagnosed it took only a few minutes to correct.
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:06 PM
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Check for excessive end shake. That's a typical cause of what you're describing.

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Old 06-11-2018, 11:25 PM
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When you cock the hammer does it act normally until about 3/4 cocked and then suddenly get hard to finish? If so 2152hq sort of touches on the problem, but his explanation is flawed. If the strain screw is loosened too far, either deliberately of just from shooting, the mainspring straightens out and effectively becomes longer. The lenghtened spring then "stubs" under the arch of the hammer when cocking the gun. If you take the side plate off and watch closely when cocking the hammer you will see clearly what is happening. It has nothing to do with the spring striking the frame, the rebound slide hitting the spring, or anything else.


I notice that even after being told to tighten the strain screw, in today's post you don't mention even trying this! Why not? Humor us, tighten the screw and then tell us what happened! Or can't you believe such a simple thing could be the problem?


There are two other situations that can have the same effect/symptoms. First, the mainspring could have been shortened having the same effect as loosening the strain screw. Second is the mainspring may have been replaced with a Wolfe "Power Rib" spring. In this case the strain screw settles into the groove of the power rib with the same effect as the screw being short or loose. Either situation can be checked by putting a fired primer cup over the mainspring as 2152hq suggested. If this fixes the problem then replace the strain screw with one that is longer!


NOTE: The mainspring should have a very distinct arch when the strain screw is properly fit! If it appears nearly straight this is the problem. A photo of the gun with the stocks off would be very helpful in diagnosing your problem too!


NOTE 2: There are several common malfunctions of S&W revolvers which can be "fixed" by simply tightening the strain screw! This is the first thing to check. "Tightened" means the screw is bottomed out and can't be tightened further. This is how the S&W strain screw must be installed, it is not an adjustment!
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Last edited by Alk8944; 06-11-2018 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 06-12-2018, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alk8944 View Post
When you cock the hammer does it act normally until about 3/4 cocked and then suddenly get hard to finish? If so 2152hq sort of touches on the problem, but his explanation is flawed. If the strain screw is loosened too far, either deliberately of just from shooting, the mainspring straightens out and effectively becomes longer. The lenghtened spring then "stubs" under the arch of the hammer when cocking the gun. If you take the side plate off and watch closely when cocking the hammer you will see clearly what is happening. It has nothing to do with the spring striking the frame, the rebound slide hitting the spring, or anything else.


I notice that even after being told to tighten the strain screw, in today's post you don't mention even trying this! Why not? Humor us, tighten the screw and then tell us what happened! Or can't you believe such a simple thing could be the problem?


There are two other situations that can have the same effect/symptoms. First, the mainspring could have been shortened having the same effect as loosening the strain screw. Second is the mainspring may have been replaced with a Wolfe "Power Rib" spring. In this case the strain screw settles into the groove of the power rib with the same effect as the screw being short or loose. Either situation can be checked by putting a fired primer cup over the mainspring as 2152hq suggested. If this fixes the problem then replace the strain screw with one that is longer!


NOTE: The mainspring should have a very distinct arch when the strain screw is properly fit! If it appears nearly straight this is the problem. A photo of the gun with the stocks off would be very helpful in diagnosing your problem too!


NOTE 2: There are several common malfunctions of S&W revolvers which can be "fixed" by simply tightening the strain screw! This is the first thing to check. "Tightened" means the screw is bottomed out and can't be tightened further. This is how the S&W strain screw must be installed, it is not an adjustment!
I am going to spend some time today going thur all the ideas. Hopefully I will get the issue solved. Thanks for all the imput.

Brian
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:08 PM
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Fella's, After reviewing and checking out all the advise that was posted. Looks like I have End Shake. I ordered some Power Custom .002 washers from Midway. I'll watch the video and hopefully things will get right with the Model 28. Love shooting that Gun !!

Thanks for all the advise.

Brian
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