Picked up a 29-2 in April. Finally took it to the range today. While shooting it, all rounds did not fire when the trigger was pulled. (per cylinder) Happened more in double action than single. Primers seem to be deeply indented. When fail to fire occurred, primer was not struck. Gun had not been fired much, or at all when I got it. Big concern is that on the back of the cylinder by the ejector star, is that it is rough like it was hit by something. Did not notice it before I fired it. See pictures. Ejector rod is straight & tight. Took it out and checked it. Any ideas. Nickel gun that looks so nice. Should it go back to S&W? Bob

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What ammunition were you using?

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Be sure the strain screw is tightened all the way.

I don't see enough on the cylinder face to indicate a problem. Could be there, but can't see it. It also could be a weak/replaced main spring, shortened/replaced rebound spring, or shortened strain screw. Any or all of the above could have been done in the interest of a "lighter trigger." Too light of a trigger fall is the primary source of inconsistent ignition, especially in double action.

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

Good suggestions from the posters. Also, I suggest taking the sideplate off and do a thorough cleaning of the action. Problem might be old accumulated gunk.

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

Did you test to see if it is out of time? Are there any indentations on the brass where the firing pin may have hit other than the primer? Just some thoughts.

I agree. I would start here. A good cleaner, compressed air and relube

I think see the problem. Looks like the firing pin is hitting between chambers - the face of the cylinder looks like it is peened right at the edges of the extractor star.

Is it either under-rotating - only rotating 1/2 of the way to the next cylinder, or is it over rotating - rotating 1/2 of a cylinder too far? If so you have a problem with either the hand (under-rotating) or the cylinder stop (over-rotating).

I'm betting it is over-rotating because the cylinder stop has a broken spring or is gunked up and not dropping into the notches soon enough.

My 29-3 would unlock and counter rotate during recoil which causes the hammer to fall back on a fired case. It makes it seem like a misfire but it's really not. I replaced the cylinder stop spring and it helped but never cured the condition. I just stopped shooting heavy loads out of it.

This is my thoughts too. It could be a broken or weak cylinder stop spring or maybe it is just gunked up from old, dried and varnished oil making the cylinder stop hang in the down position a hair too long and letting the cylinder over rotate. I would check that first thing, before deciding to send it off to S&W to check out. Wolff sells regular and extra strength cylinder stop springs, BTW.

Thanks, did that when I got it. Bob

Hand loads, nothing heavy. Newer brass. 200 gr. coated lead bullets. No issues in my 29-3. Bob

See attached revolver inspection. Check the timing and lockup and let us know if you discover anything. I would check everything too.

Attached Files

S&W_revolver_inspection.pdf (195.4 KB, 24 views)

I have a revolver that the cylinder stop would occasionally fail to fall into the slot on the cylinder and obviously misfire. The cylinder showed a firing pin strike just as that of the OP. In my case, the problem was traced to a shortened rebound spring that a previous owner had cut in an attempt to improve trigger pull. I can’t say that is the OPs problem but it is worth a look.

Strain screw does not looked shortened. O.A.L. length is .569". Does that sound right? Bob