Powder residue removal on cylinder

[jmclfrsh]

I tried to do a search, to no avail, but I know this has to have been covered numerous times so I apologize.

On a nickle finish, is there a cleaning fluid or procedure that helps remove the slight burn mark on the outside of a cylinder one gets from shooting numerous rounds during a single session?

I’m not worried so much about the face of the cylinder, but I would like to remove that 1/16” or so wide black mark one gets between the flutes on the raised portion of the cylinder. It probably comes from the forcing cone area while firing.

I used Hoppe’s and a rag, and wiped at them for awhile, but no luck. I know nickle is somewhat soft so I did not want to use anything abrasive.

I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but was hoping something simpler could work.

Also, someone suggested coating the gun with a thin layer of CLP prior to shooting, and that the smoke residue will then lie on that coating and can more easily be wiped off afterward.

I figure there is so much pressure near the forcing cone that it would penetrate that area regardless, but I might be incorrect.

Any suggestions?

[Rpg]

I use a toothbrush with good old Hoppes on my nickel Smiths.

Once things are cleaned up, try a coat of wax (renwax. Johnson’s paste wax, flitz wax etc). Makes the next cleaning easier.

[murphydog]

A lead removal cloth is safe for nickel finishes, as long as you stop rubbing when the surface starts smoking.

By report a lead pencil eraser works well but I have not tried this.

[RGVshooter]

I regularly shoot my 617 and 686. Both are stainless steel revolvers. I use Hoppes #9 and soak a cotton patch and rub it all over the carbon/soot that's present anywhere on the frame or cylinder and let it sit for a few while I concentrate on scrubbing out the barrel & cylinders. When I'm done with the cylinders & barrel, THEN I go over the exterior of the revolver with another soaked patch of Hoppes and wipe it down. A little rubbing with a terry cloth dabbed in solvent helps but at this point most carbon buildup on the sides should be gone. I use a nylon bristled toothbrush or similar on the face of the cylinder and rear where the extractor is, under it/over it. I would not suggest using fine steel wool on the front face of the cylinder although I see no harm in using a 0000 extra fine steel wool soaked in Hoppes for a once a year gentle wipe down. But IMO it's not entirely necessary.

After I'm all done cleaning I use a oil soaked flannel cloth sold by Hoppes and others to wipe down the exterior and put it away.

[oddshooter]

lead removal cloth and renaissance wax.

[iouri]

BoreTech C4 carbon remover does a very good job well removing carbon. I've only tried it on stainless, not sure how it'd behave on blue.

[growr]

Why do so many obsess over this?
I shoot a 625 in USPSA/IDPA matches and all I need to do is brush off any residue that might interfere with the rotation of the cylinder....I don't need for it to like like it came straight from the factory.
Randy

[hogblue]

FWIW I use M PRO 7 solvent cleaner. It’s bio degradable and no smell. Cuts through carbon like nothing I’ve ever seen. You might give it a go and see what you think

[tightgroups]

These work fantastic and do not harm finishes!! There's a gentleman on 1911addicts that sells them.

[ben_g1]

I purchased a python electroless nickel recently and have been researching what to use to remove the carbon deposits on the cylinder.

Found many posts that say not to use lead removal cloth on blue and nickel guns, use on stainless only. Even read that on some instructions on some brands of the cloths.

Also have read on some sites that say you can use on nickel. Wish I had a BS meter on my computer, life would be much easier .

[CH4]

On stainless I use Hoppes 9 with a bronze brush, then finish with Mother’s metal polish and a soft cloth. Not sure if this is safe for nickel.

[jag22]

I’ve had best results with Flitz. If you shoot and clean it often it might be a problem but for an occasional good scrubbing it works fine.

[TAROMAN]

Originally Posted by growr

Why do so many obsess over this?
I shoot a 625 in USPSA/IDPA matches and all I need to do is brush off any residue that might interfere with the rotation of the cylinder....I don't need for it to like like it came straight from the factory.
Randy

Exactly:

[muddocktor]

Originally Posted by iouri

BoreTech C4 carbon remover does a very good job well removing carbon. I've only tried it on stainless, not sure how it'd behave on blue.

I just looked on the Bore Tech website and read the FAQ on the C4 solvent. And it has a note about this product on nickel finishes (since the OP specifically mentioned nickel in his original post) cautioning about leaving it on no more than 3-5 minutes because it will darken or discolor the finish. They don't show any other cautions for other barrel finishes though, so I assume that it is safe for a blue finish. In my personal opinion, I wouldn't use this product on any of my nickel guns because of this.

EDIT: Just went to the M-Pro 7 website and their gun cleaning solvent is safe for nickel finishes according to them. I just might try this out when MidwayUSA gets it back in stock.

[MichiganScott]

I use a pink artists eraser on my blued and stainless guns. There is no visible damage to the blued surface, so I'd carefully try it on nickle if I ever were to own a nickle gun.

[s&wchad]

I use NEVR-DULL wadding. It removes the fouling and doesn’t seem to harm the finish. A can lasts a long time.

[growr]

Originally Posted by TAROMAN

Exactly:

Now THAT is a great looking gun!!! Seems to say "I mean business" doesn't it?

Randy

[TAROMAN]

Pretty doesn't win pistol matches.

[growr]

Are you shooting it in USPSA? That's where I shoot my 625....many will snicker and then they call out 2 Alpha for every target and then the smirks seem to disappear!

Randy

PS. I am still using the iron sights instead of optics...

[arjay]

I've used mothers mag on an old model 15 with after market nickel with no damage to the finish

[jmclfrsh]

Guys, thanks for the replies, I sincerely appreciate it!

If it were a competition gun, I would not worry about it. But I just paid $1100 for it and once I get a nice load worked up for it, which is what I was doing and prompted my post, I want this one to stay looking nice.

I have two 629s that are easier to maintain, and I’ll do the bulk of my shooting with for that reason.

But my two nickle P&R N frames, a 29-2 and a no dash 57, I’d like to keep looking good. So I appreciate the detailed info. M Pro 7 is a product I forgot about, and the guy who invented it has a good video about it. That’s the type of info I was looking for.

I’ll give Never Dull and Mothers a quick try, I have some of that already.

Thanks again!

[TAROMAN]

Originally Posted by growr

Are you shooting it in USPSA? That's where I shoot my 625....many will snicker and then they call out 2 Alpha for every target and then the smirks seem to disappear!

Randy

PS. I am still using the iron sights instead of optics...

Speed Steel and club games. My knees are too far gone for the run-n-gun games.

[chief38]

For guns that get shot constantly, cleaning and keeping the "rings" of carbon & lead off the Cylinder face is not only a loosing battle but it will eventually cause more harm than good. Unless you disassemble the Cylinder/Extractor Rod assembly each time - you are also getting what ever you are using for cleaning in the ER hole. The first cylinder full of ammo you fire puts you right back where you started from - RINGS!

Keeping the Carbon / Lead build-up to a minimal thin layer is all that is required for normal and smooth functioning and sort of looks "normal" on a working Revolver. I have seen many Cylinders that have been scored and scratched (in stores at the used counter) in the owners attempts to clean off all residue from the Cylinder face. IMHO a soft toothbrush with solvent will remove what is necessary for proper smooth functioning. If you plan on turning a Revolver into a Safe Queen - then that is a horse of a different color and a CAREFUL thorough cleaning can be done with a Lead wipe or similar.

[jmclfrsh]

Thank you, and I agree. This one will be somewhat of a safe queen but even at that, the front of the cylinder I’m not worried about - that is a losing battle so why bother!