This is not a huge problem, but I noticed the crane on my 1915 Hand Ejector has just enough back-and-forth movement to make closing the cylinder bind slightly. Pushing the crane inward, and the cylinder closes smoothly. I checked all screws for tightness, it did not make any difference in the crane play.

Is there any easy fix? Replace one or both of the front screws holding the crane in place?

This is obviously an old piece and not one I shoot much anyway, but if the fix is straightforward, I would like to learn how to do it.

A nice 5" bbl revolver in 38 special with the original grips. Gotta love these ole Smith's! Thanks for the help / advice.

You're describing, I believe, end shake. Yes, it can be repaired either with shims or by peening the end of the yoke to lengthen it. It can also be lengthen with a pipe cutter with it's cutting wheel's edge flattened. If this confuses you too much, consult a pistol smith or a trained Smith revolver armorer.

__________________
Ed

Did you happen to read this thread, it sounds like your problem: Damaged Yoke?

Remove the yoke screw and pull out the yoke. Tell us if you find something similar to the other thread.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

That is called "Endshake" and the only approved method of correcting this is using shims. They are very thin metal rings that fit between the yoke as it is called (not a crane) and the frame of the revolver. The thin metal rings or shims come in different thickness and are sold at Brownells or MidwayUSA. On MidwayUSA's website there are instructional videos that demonstrate how to properly install the shim on the page where you can order the shims.

Cylinder endshake is pretty common on older revolvers or revolvers that see heavy usage.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I will look into these suggestions and post how it turns out. I don't shoot this old piece much, but could tell it was not right. Appreciate the help.

If he has to push the front of the yoke into the frame to get proper close up its not endshake. The yoke screw is either worn or the groove in yoke where tip of screw holds it is worn. New fit yoke screw or some adjustment of the yoke button will fix that. The yoke should not move in and out at its pivot point with the frame. Check out the damaged yoke thread pointed out by Hondo.

If the yoke doesn't move for and aft while open, but cylinder does thats the frame lug where back edge of cylinder rides on it being worn.It takes a bit to cause problems because the little wave in recoil shield usually contacts the rear part of center pin and as you close up cylinder it cames into correct position. If lug face is to far back the center pin can hang as it meets the divot in recoil shield. New lug can be staked in place.
End shake is when cylinder is closed up and moves for and aft in cylinder window and should be more that .002. That is fixable with shims or stretching yoke tube. I like the shims myself. Easy to do and gives a hardened bearing surface between yoke tube end and cylinder

Thanks Steelslaver. Yes, the yoke moves fore and aft when open, and needs to be pushed inward to easily close the cylinder into the frame. I will read the damaged yoke thread and try suggestions. Where is the best place to go for parts such as a replacement yoke screw? Brownell's? Thanks again.

Brownells only carries current versions of revolver parts-at least in the factory parts section. The current yoke screw uses a spring loaded coned plunger and matching yoke stud V groove. That doesn't help you. They might carry older versions in the revolver section of the catalog.

You need to check with Numrich/Gun Parts Inc. or Jack First for a yoke screw....and there's only one-in the sideplate.

The yoke screw on older and on pre war hand ejectors is not a special screw, same as the other side plate screws (except the bug screw at the top), It's only special once the length has been fitted to the groove in the yoke at the factory. So as in the other thread, just swap with one of the other two screws and fit for proper length to the yoke.

The issue with your gun is usually caused because most people don't realize that the screw is fitted to the yoke. They remove the side plate screws and mix them up. One of the other side plate screws likely properly fits the yoke already. You just need to examine the yoke button for damage.

If you do need a replacement screw, you'll want a pre war screw.

A specification change on March 4, 1942: a specification change in the standardization of tolerances for screw diameter. A change from old S&W 'smaller minimum diameter' tolerance to the larger minimum standardized tolerance of the #5 x 44 National Fine (N.F.) screw diameter (no, the threads per inch did not change). It refers specifically to the sideplate screws in this discussion (but excluding the bug screw or upper sideplate screw which is a 4-48 pre and post war) but also the #5 N.F. grip screws. Therefore, there CAN BE a difference between 'pre-change' and 'post-change' screws and they CAN measure differently.

In March of this year, I purchased sideplate screws from three sources: Numrich, Brownell's, and Gun Garage. The domed screws from Numrich were in a dull finish and incorrect thread size - they wouldn't fit. The domed screws from Brownell's were a high-polish finish and the correct thread size (5 x44) - however, the diameter of the head was just the slightest bit small. This showed up visually when installed but I did not measure them. The screws received from Gun Garage were high-polish, correct thread-size, and fit beautifully. They are gorgeous and look exactly like OEM screws.

Sources for proper screws:

GUN GARAGE on Ebay (for screws)
gungarage | eBay Stores


"Aonepawninc" aonepawninc | eBay Stores
has a bunch of old S&W parts for sale. I just ordered a complete hammer for my pre model 30 from them. They are very customer oriented and have very reasonable prices. 1/10/16

Dave Bennett: Parts and guns from 1900 up to 1970's.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.22ammobox.com

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Jim
S&WCA #819