I've been looking for a way to clean the carbon residue off of my M27. Not the carbon that builds up on the face of the cylinder but about a 1/4" back between the flutes. I don't have any problems scrubbing my stainless pistols but don't want to cause any finish damage cleaning my M27. Flitz does a pretty good job but I know it's just a matter of time before it wears through the blueing. Searching online I came across Bore Tech carbon cleaner. According to the reviews it seems to just melt the carbon away. However I couldn't find any reference to it being safe for blued finishes. I did find one review where the user said it turned his nickel finish black. Has anyone here used this stuff on a blued finish. My M27 is almost mint and I'd hate to watch my blueing run off onto the floor. Also, for the price I'd sure like to make sure it really works (although the reviewers all were pretty enthusiastic). I understand that with time and use all things wear but I don't want to actually "damage" anything.

I assume your M27 is NOT a one of the ‘classic’ recent production guns, I’d use good old Hoppes 9 and a toothbrush with nylon bristles. Then I’d apply a coat of wax (Johnson paste wax, Renaissance wax etc).

If you’re talking the ‘new’ ‘classic’ series, I can’t help you. Their finish is a mystery and can be quite fragile.

It's an older M27-5 in almost mint condition (see below). I've tried a nylon bristled toothbrush with #9 and it helps but doesn't remove it all. It cleans up the rest of the pistol just fine but not those little smiles between the flutes. I've owned this pistol for about 4 or 5 years and just don't shoot it as much as I'd like to. This was one of those pistols that I really didn't need but when I saw it I had to have it.

Attached Images

DSCN2175.jpg (93.1 KB, 39 views)

I’d apply a bit more time and elbow grease with the Hoppes.

I’m not confident that spending money on a ‘new’ cleaning product is worth the money or wise.

Remember that the ‘old’ bluing can’t be replaced by Smith.

I've been taking filthy cylinders off and putting them in a sealed mayonnaise jar filled with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.Let it soak overnight or longer and scrub with a bronze brush.The carbon comes right off along with most of the lead

I just don't think that scrubbing the sides of the cylinder with a bronze brush is the way to go here. It's not lead I'm removing, it's carbon build up between the flutes..

I do this when needed too. I use a nylon brush...soak...brush...repeat as needed.
Ed's or Kano Kroil work nicely.

Wax helps tremendously with clean up, if you use it regularly. Apply after you get it all clean & dry and the next clean up will be a snap. No need to soak.

This is no doubt impractical, and maybe a bit messy, but as I recall, when I used to shoot black powder revolvers, we covered the top of every loaded cylinder with crisco. This was to stop a flash from one cylinder to another. Of course we used a lot, and the crisco melted and got all over everything.. Especially after many loadings. BUT, as I recall, it just wiped off with a tissue paper before cleaning. So, maybe just a hardly noticeable film of something like Crisco halfway down the cylinder may not let the carbon stick to the metal. Not globs, just a thin film. I'm wondering?

__________________
Pete
I ain't no fortunate son

I used Kroil to remove baked-on carbon on 60-mm mortar components. If it will take that stuff off, your M27 should be a cakewalk.

I have a Range Rag made of 100% Cotton Flannel saturated with Rig #2 Oil that I keep in a plastic bag and goes into my Range Bag. Every time I'm done shooting a firearm at the range I wipe it down while it's still warm - including he Flutes on Revolvers. This procedure removes the crud then and there and I don't have to deal with heavy duty stuff when I clean the gun later on. Take a minute and wipe down the entire gun! Not only does it clean up much easier later but it will keep it from getting rusted and pitted, especially if its damp or wet outside.

I buy 100% Cotten Flannel at the Fabric store (on sale) and I buy enough yardage to make a few dozen 18 x 18 Range Rags from. I'd suggest buying white so you can see exactly how dirty it is and there are also no Dyes in the White material!

NOTE: Make SURE the Rags you use are 100% Cotton Flannel, don't be shy with the Oil you saturate the Range Rag with, and don't be a cheapskate - when the Rag is soiled, toss it and replace it with a fresh one (or you will scratch your firearm) - they are cheap enough!

I used this for that purpose on my 27-2 and it worked very well:
Metal Care Cloth


Don't use this:
BIRCHWOOD CASEY LEAD REMOVER CLOTH | Brownells

For the older and better blue finishes, Hoppes #9 with a soft toothbrush should be fine. However, #9 does have ammonia.

I use Hoppes "Elite" (no ammonia) for my nickel and stainless finishes. It comes in a pump bottle. The spray helps dissolve the carbon along with a medium toothbrush. For stubborn or built up carbon I follow up with Mother's Mag Wheel polish on the end of another toothbrush. This also works for blue finishes.

Some members apply a light coat of oil to finish up. I prefer Renaissance Wax with a soft cloth.

Bill

__________________
That's what we do!

Bore Tech carbon remover is good, but it is not the holy grail. After years of different products, there is nothing like time, patience and a little elbow grease to remove the carbon. Time seems to be the most important component of the process, let the product soak, soften and dislodge the carbon. Let it sit for a bit, and get at it with a toothbrush. I always use some Kroil, and have come full circle back to Hoppe's. Nothing instant or easy in removing carbon...or at least not that I have found.