I bought a S&W model 41 7 3/8" barrel with a muzzle break and cocking indicator with a 5" barrel both in box used very little.
The problem is that when trying to shoot the 5" barrel it will not
eject the empty cartridge because the bore in the chamber is to large and allowing the brass to expand to much therefore it won't
eject the brass.
Question what should I do ?
Will S&W fix this because it was over bored in the first place or just put a bushing in my self ?

scruff the chamber clean. check extractor and spring

Welcome! Does this happen with several different brands/types of .22 LR?

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

My first thought as well. Might also want to take a chamber cast of the suspect barrel and really see what's up with it.

Larry

Sometimes the firing pin can make a dent in the chamber, causing a burr that will make it hard to extract a fired case. Might be something to check for.

The suggestions about a good cleaning, checking the extractor and spring and trying different brands of ammo are good. Also checking for a burr on the edge of the chamber from the firing pin. If that doesn't do it, it could well be that somehow that particular barrel didn't get it's chamber finish reamed. That's an easy fix. It's also possible the extractor groove in the barrel isn't quite right.

On various brands of .22 firearms I've seen the two issues I've noted. Not the end of the world, just slight glitches in the manufacturing process.

If ejected empties from the 5 inch barrel are, in fact, significantly larger by accurate measurement than those from the other barrel, you can try checking with S&W Customer Service.

If your chamber is truly oversize it would require a chamber replacement sleeve. I doubt if S&W would repair it in that manner so it would likely have to go to a gunsmith.

the chamber is .004 larger than all my other 22's that I have .
that is what I was thinking I would have to do is make a bushing just trying
to figure out what wall thickness I should make it . Maybe .100 wall ( is this good enough) with a .0005 press. I can freeze it in liquid nitrogen to shrink the bushing so it will not harm the barrel and still stay straight and no go crooked.

A .050 wall would be plenty for a .22. Remember, it's supported by all the surrounding material. I would make the front end of the bushing a .001 slip fit to get it started and guide it, and make the rest of it a .0005 to .001 press fit. ream the hole in the middle undersize so you can finish it off with a chamber reamer after it's in place.

First, check your chamber with a Pin Gage, not calipers. For I.D. measurements calipers can be wildly inaccurate because they are severely influenced by an cocking or off center positioning. Pin gages only cost about 3 dollars each and it's a no doubt means of checking a bore.

Second, once you know the exact size you need yoiu will want to contact a Chrome Plater that does Hard Chrome Plating. Many times I've had swaging tools Hard Chromed to tweak a size by up to about 0.005 inch on diameter.

The reason why you want to go with Hard Chrome is because a "bushing" with a wall thickness of only 0.002 inch is not possible because this amount of thickness just doesn't have sufficient strength to withstand the force applied by a reamer, what will happen is it will "peel" and just wad up around the reamer. The only way to bush this chamber is to start with an overbore that will provide at least 0.05 inch of wall thickness for the bushing. With all the work involved it installing a bushing it will be much easier and cheaper to simply have the chamber hard chromed. BTW, areas where you do NOT want plating can be masked off with a special "paint" so it is possible to ONLY plate the chamber.

If you're going to shrink fit, I'd hesitate to use liquid nitrogen in this particular instance. Dry ice should be sufficient to get the shrink you need, you can heat the barrel somewhat to help. Boiling water should be sufficient heat. Depending upon diameter of the sleeve, 0.0005 in interference might be a bit much. I'd bore rather than drill the chamber for the sleeve.

I did a couple of LN shrinks back when and the engineers had tizzy fits over thermal shock. Those were for purposes that didn't include pressure spikes like a chamber. However, you may be more familiar with the process than I am.

I do second the use of pin gauges to check the diameter.

thank guys I did just thought I could get some good advice here

Assuming you are correct about the chamber being oversize, there is no reason that would affect extraction. As for as repairing the gun is concerned, obviously you have no experience in such things as sleeving chambers, you are asking for trouble attempting to do this.


How old is the gun? Was it made after 1989 or so, when the life-time warrantee went into effect? If so then send it back to S&W and let them fix whatever is really wrong. There should be no cost. Even if the chamber is bad the best way is to simply replace the barrel! This will cost less than paying a competent gunsmith to make proper repairs to the current barrel. (There is a reason I have emphasized competent!)


As scooter 123 mentions, it is not possible to accurately measure internal diameters with a dial caliper. The most accurate way is to slug the hole and measure the slug. This will even show an out-of-round condition, a pin gauge will not!

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Gunsmithing since 1961