Helping a buddy do some mods to the trigger guard area of the frame (on polymer lower) to increase hand grip feel. We got the trigger guard area where it attaches to the frame kinda thin. It's solid but will flex when pressure is applied

Can that area be strengthened by the application of some ACRAGLAS or Devcon Epoxy then shaping and smoothing? Anybody had any experience with this?

No, I don't think there is anything that will stick to the plastic used.

When I first read it, that's what I thought it said..

But after reading it you realized that is what it SHOULD say...

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1st smiles,lies.Last,gunfire.

It's difficult, but it can work. I think it will take a lot of prep and maybe some special treatment, but if you ask someone who is really knowledgeable you may get a procedure that will work. I think that it would be worth trying because if it can't stick, it's no worse off.

I wonder that even if you do get it to stick, will it really provide reinforcement or just 'be there'. Maybe some glass or fill should be added.

It seems in the gun world, people should have experience with dealing with this. I think that most polymer guns are glass filled Nylon 66,

It's a wild thought, but forming and shaping a thin splint and super gluing. I've done some odds and ends with polymers and super glue, one that I rmemember was a plastic microphone holder. I think I got luck because I hate trying to get super glue where it needs to be and not where it doesn't, but the thing came out looking like new.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I was wondering if a narrow strip of carbon fiber embedded in an epoxy or super glue would provide the reinforcement? There is really not much if any force applied to that part of the trigger guard.

Yep...buddy let out a big ....oops on that one.

Cut a hunk of steel to the right shape and duct tape it on? Just kidding but couldn't resist. BTW having been there trying to customize a set of grips, I will plead guilty as charged and promise not to do any home gunsmithing. I shoot em do basic cleaning and handload. I dont fix them or even install drop in parts. To quote a famous Clint "a man has to know his limitations" and I know mine.

I thought I was the only one who could make a bad job a complete disaster.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

I would never buy a gun that didn't fit my hand. Doing "bubba work" isn't on my list of things to do to an expensive firearm.

As a member of long standing on this forum, do you really think I would be one doing "bubba work"?

I would use hot melt glue to reinforce the over-relieved area. Sand/shape it with 320 grit, if needed.

Super Glue will bond well, but it is more brittle and will crack quicker. Certain special purpose epoxys can work too, but it needs to be the proper formulation.

PA6 or PA66...

Epoxy *might* bond if there's enough glass
fiber. Cyanoacrylate, iffy. Hot melt glue, no.

Now you get to learn plastic welding...new tools,
yay!

FYI.....I recently attempted to repair holes in the S&W presentation case plastic inserts. I used a fiberglass kit and it was a mess. I had the glass fibers sticking to the insert, work bench, and my hands/face/arms. When finished I looked like I had been arm wrestling with a porcupine or perhaps a goalie for a dart team. On another one insert, I decided to forgo the fiberglass mat/cloth and had a roll of "rollable gauze" handy, so I used it with the fiberglass resin. What a difference, the resin permeates the gauze quickly and totally. the gauze is flexible and can be shaped to where adheres cleanly to the liner.

3M Scotch Weld 8010NS structural plastic adhesive. The 'NS' is for no sag.

Cheers
Bill

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Because they don't make a .46

Zip tips and baling wire fix anything.

Another way to go..

Attached Images

fitz.jpg (5.5 KB, 136 views)

You might want to call the manufacturer and see if it is possible to replace the Frame with another one that bares that specific serial number. In the long run that would be the best way - start fresh!

Lots of people are picking on the poor OP. I admire OP's bravery at posting such a question on this forum. With that said, my solution is:

Trade it in on a 1911.

Get a rope!!!

Actually, black zip ties are PA 6-6--with no glass fibers--
and could be used for plastic welding to zytel.

BRILLIANT!!!!!

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Bob.
SWCA 1821

That's not how it works. A manufacturer can't put the same serial number on more than one pistol of the same make, model, and configuration. In my time, we've broken more than one slide rail on a Glock frame. You get another frame with a different number. At times, it's been a letter added to the original number. Other times, when I guess we or they were in more of a hurry, it was just a different number. And, of course, we didn't pay for it. This nice fella' will get a bill . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .