I have a 64-3, made I believe in 1981. Was a police trade in, shoots good, but sticks when you try to open it. Not every time, but most of the time. You can still always open it, but it definitely binds. I wondered if there is things for a non gunsmith to try, or a particular part to look at. I have another -3 and everything looks the same, and the gun is lubricated and clean. Just not sure where to start, or if I need to have a gunsmith look at it right off.

Pequod.

Well - I'm not armorer qualified - but I would check to see if the extractor rod has loosened up on it. If the rod loosens, then it is longer and more difficult to get past the locking bolt at the end of the barrel. Remember that the rod is threaded opposite of the standard threads - turning it CCW will tighten it (your M64 is new enough it should have the new-style threading). I would remove the yoke screw, pull out the yoke and cylinder, then put two or three empty cases in the chambers and try to (carefully!) tighten it. I wound up buying a special pair of vise grips - with adaptors for two different sized extractor rods - from Midway for around $25-ish...

OK thanks. I tried that, I actually have a pair of the gunsmither vice grips to clamp on. I was afraid to get it too tight, thinking I would strip it, and when I put it back together it seems about the same. Still binds. I may just find a qualified gunsmith and have it looked at. Should not be too big a job for somebody who knows what they are doing.

Pequod

Check the cylinder gap. It may be dragging. Could be a little carbon build up on the cylinder or forcing cone or needs to be reset to the correct gap.

Does the center pin come all the way to the end of the ejector rod when you press it in at the rear of the cylinder?

Does it bind if you take out the screw in the side plate that releases the crane for cylinder removal removal? Might be a burr in the recess or a damaged screw tip or the wrong screw in place.
Karl

Is the bolt flush with the face of the frame when the cylinder latch is pushed forward?

If it has worn it won't push the locking pin enough and cause binding.

Ontarget again: yes, it binds the same even with screw out.
BlackTalonJHP: yes, when pushed back the center pin is flush with the end of the ejector rod.
RMFnLA, I don't understand your question, please provide more detail. What bolt, flush with frame, ??

His question is similar to mine. The thumb piece is attached to the bolt. The bolt pushes forward on the center pin at the breech face to unlock it there and to unlock the ejector rod from the latch under the barrel.

You should also look at the locking bolt itself. This is the plunger in the barrel underlug. You should be able to press it flush with the underlug face. Every once in awhile, the pin slot in the body is off or the nose of the bolt is left too long. If it won't go flush, it can drag on the end of the ejector rod.

Also, while you're checking the bolt to make sure it goes flush with the recoil shield face/breech when the thumbpiece is pushed forward, close the cylinder and gently try to move the thumbpiece to the rear. There should be an ever so slight movement to make sure the center pin doesn't have mechanical interference when it isn't supposed to.

BTW, make sure the end of the ejector rod doesn't drag on the underlug.

And you thought revolvers are simple.

As a last resort, you may have a new or oversized bolt installed. Lift the hammer until the bolt is resting on the cylinder between slots. Try to open the cylinder. If it opens easily, the very top of the bolt needs to be VERY LIGHTLY chamfered with a stone.

Attached Images

S_W bolt.jpg (3.4 KB, 9 views)

Make sure the extractor rod is dead straight. Even a bit of a bend can cause what you describe.

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Pisgah

I appreciate all the replies. I tried a few solutions to no end, dropped it off at a local (almost local) gunsmith, will update with what was wrong when I get it back. Thanks for the help.

Pequod

I got the 64 back a couple days ago. $40, works perfect. He said he "massaged" the ejector rod, no new parts. I could not be more pleased.

Pequod.

That part is not a bolt. It is a cylinder stop.

This is a bolt

S&W bolt.jpg

This is a locking bolt

s&w locking bolt.jpe

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