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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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Old 08-20-2018, 09:53 AM
notsofast notsofast is offline
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What did Smith & Wesson use on their 1960’s target grips? Lacquer, shellac, varnish?? I have a pair of these grips and a third of the finish has flaked off, I would like to remove the rest, fine sand them and refinish with urethane. The grips are S&W factory Combats but they are MUCH darker than what I am accustomed to and not sure if this is from aging or if it is an uncommon wood/stain the factory used? I have both acetone and paint stripper, how should I remove the remaining finish? Also did S&W ever use a dark walnut for combats? (it’s a round butt k-frame). thanks

Last edited by notsofast; 09-07-2018 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:10 AM
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Many people use acetone. And that is what I have used numerous times with success. If there is water/perspiration damage to unprotected areas(which typically shows up black as black stains), I have used oxalic acid to clean those areas (acetone will not remove those spots, and often neither will light sanding).
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Old 08-20-2018, 10:31 AM
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Bar Keeper's Friend is a cleaner you can find that contains oxalic acid.

I've had good luck replicating the post-war finish with a spray lacquer from Walmart.
For pre-war, I use hand rubbed Danish Oil.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:16 AM
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Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish Liquid
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Old 08-20-2018, 06:22 PM
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+1 for Tru-Oil. I have refinished grips with it, and prefer the results to the factory finish, even if the Tru-Oil is not "correct."
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Old 08-20-2018, 09:09 PM
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I've also used acetone to strip with good results and Tru-oil to refinish. The nice thing about Tru-oil is that you keep applying coats until you like the results. Every coat you add makes the grips glossier, so you can get the look you want.
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Old 08-21-2018, 06:42 AM
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Over the years S&W has used many different finishes and products to finish their wooden grips.

If the grips that are to be refinished will be used heavily, I use 100% Tung oil which will never flake crack or peel. When the finish starts to wear, simply add another coat or two - no stripping required and it fully dries over night. A real easy process!!

If I am restoring a set of grips to the original shinny gloss finish some of the Target Grips came in, I use a Lacquer. While not as durable long term, it does look "purdy" and will stand up reasonably well if shot on occasion. EDC guns usually don't stand up well with Lacquered Grips.
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Old 09-07-2018, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notsofast View Post
What did Smith & Wesson use on their 1960’s target grips? Lacquer, shellac, varnish?? I have a pair of these grips and a third of the finish has flaked off, I would like to remove the rest, fine sand them and refinish with urethane. The grips are S&W factory Combats but they are MUCH darker than what I am accustomed to and not sure if this is from aging or if it is an uncommon wood/stain the factory used? I have both acetone and paint stripper, how should I remove the remaining finish? Also did S&W ever use a dark walnut for combats? (it’s a round butt k-frame). thanks
Quote bump for original post revision, thanks
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Old 09-08-2018, 11:44 AM
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+2 on the TruOil.
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Old 09-08-2018, 11:53 AM
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+3 in TruOil
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:44 AM
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Another vote for TruOil.
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Old 09-10-2018, 02:00 AM
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I use Laquer thinner to strip finish Tru oil is good finish if applied
in thin coats and allowed to cure between coats. Another thing
about Tru Oil is buy it where there is turn over. It gets funny with
age and it doesn't help to thin it at that stage. It doesn't cure and
will remain sticky.
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Old 09-10-2018, 08:11 AM
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I agree with most of the input so far. He is one more opinion.

To my eye the finish on the S&W revolver stocks from the late 1960's through the 1990's was glossier than the finish on the stocks from the early 1960's and older.

I find the Birchwood Casey Tru Oil Gun Stock Finish is best at reproducing the finish of the newer (glossier) gun stocks (i.e. late 1960's to 1990's).

I find Tung oil (I have used Minwax Tung Oil Finish) better reproduces the less glossy finish on the older gun stocks (i.e. early 1960's and older).

There are a couple of S&W Forum members, DWFAN being a stand out, who are excellent with stock refinishing. I do NOT recall having seen them give an opinion on this topic.
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:23 AM
mike campbell mike campbell is offline
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No bad advice so far.


1) Flaking, along with yellow dust/mud when you sand/strip it, is the sure sign that lacquer was used. Virtually all mass-produced stocks on all handguns and long guns from the 30's to the 60's were lacquered.

2) Chemical stripping is good. Be patient. Use a tongue depressor and/or Xacto knife for scraping the softened finish. Use scotchbrite and/or steel wool in the later stages.

3) Checkering, if it exists, is/was always done last, after the applied finish is cured. Therefore, if it present, it should be masked during refinishing. Cover it with blue painters tape then trace around the border with an Xacto knife. Lastly, remove the tape and a couple coats of thinned finish can be applied to seal the checkering wihout filling it up. Gloppy finish in checkering is just wrong.

4)Spray lacquer is by far the easiest to apply and easiest to get great results. Use a few thin coats and only under low-humidity; 50% humidity is a good benchmark. A second product that can be thinned and hand applied (pipe cleaners are good for this) is best to seal the checkering. Flood it with thin finish, let it soak only a minute or two and and dab out the excess with paper towel or cloth rag. Only 2/3 thin coats are required. When the checkering takes on a faint shine, you're done ... wood is sealed, checkering is still sharp.

5) Polyurethane is not bad. Almost as easy to apply as lacquer. More durable. Top notch resistance to water, gun oils and skin oil. Sits on top of the wood (like lacquer) and, therefore, doesn't penetrate, wet and darken the wood if you want to "freeze" the light color of freshly prepared wood.

6) Penetrating oils are more labor intensive. They darken the wood slightly, not because they add color but because they wet the wood as they penetrate, such as a white paper towel "darkens" when it gets wet. TruOil is good for maximum durability and high gloss if you're OK with a bit of a "plastic coated" look. Not saying that's bad, just a matter of taste....Remington, Weatherby, etc. taught several generations that it's pretty. Lots of $20,000 trap guns have $5000 wood under what looks like 1/4" of plastic.

If you like a more subdued gloss with less build-up and a finish that appears to be more "in" than "on" the wood, and only slightly less durable than poly or TruOil, then tung oil blends are for you....Formbys, Deft, Watco, Minwax. My favorite is Waterlox sealer.
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