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Old 08-23-2018, 07:52 PM
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Default N frame ejector rod lengths? Updated W gun photos

Is there a couple of different tenth rods for the 4" and over guns?

Here is what is going on. I have a couple Brazilians for projects. I came across a 1950 45 barrel that had been cut to about 4 1/2" on the forum. Whoever cut it used a machine screw to reinstall. That would have been fine, but he left the head of screw sticking up. Not a real problem, I just counter sunk it and made the top of head flush with top of ramp. So far so good. I when I went to fit it to Brazilian frame it didn't time. Again no problem, a bit of a trim on shoulder and it timed. Now I want am installing a 45 colt cylinder, so I need to trim barrel extension, again no big problem. Mill the frame for adjustable sight and even mill in a piece of rib from an old barrel so top of frame matches top of barrel. Looks good.

Ha, ha, stuck ejector left hand ejector rod on cylinder and low and behold its about a 1/4" to short. What? I check assembled 45 colt against the assembled 45 acp Brazilian and sure enough the Brazilian rod sticks out about a 1/4" more from gas ring.

So, when they went from right to left hand did the also shorten rod? Orr when did the shorten rod? I have a couple older left hands coming my way, but now way to measure what Numerich had. I don't want to fit the right hand star to the newer cylinder, butt I have a plan if I can't get the right length rod.

I have never run into this playing mix and match before. I have a small pile or rods and ceenter pins all to short. The Brazilian center pin will work. It sticks out of the new ejector rod about 1/4".

Live and learn

Last edited by steelslaver; 08-29-2018 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 08-23-2018, 08:53 PM
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It sounds like you have a K-frame rod. They are shorter than the N.
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Old 08-23-2018, 09:21 PM
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Might be whats going on, but, I thought it was the same length as a stainless one I have and I don't remember ever having any K frame stainless stuff. But, then I am a pack rat so I might have a SS K frame one and no left hand N frame ones. I have about a dozen spare cylinders of various calibers and about the same number of barrels. A plastic container of ejector stuff, one of hammers and triggers then a couple of them with things like shims and screws, some sights etc. I should be better organized. But, what fun would that be.

I do have a couple N frame rods coming so I will find out.
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Old 08-25-2018, 10:16 AM
WR Moore WR Moore is offline
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A relatively recent production N frame extractor rod is 2.850 inches, OAL. Somewhere I've got the parts for a 1917, but I've no idea where, so I can't measure that.

I've got notes from a job I did decades ago on a model 28, converted to .45 ACP. The yoke barrel on the model 28 seems be about 0.055 in shorter than that of the 1917, or maybe model 1950 (dunno where the .45 parts came from). I had to make up a tool steel bushing to establish correct head space after the famous name gunsmith did the conversion. Pre-model number S&Ws may be very similar to post-model number, but not necessarily identical in design.

Last edited by WR Moore; 08-25-2018 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 08-25-2018, 03:51 PM
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38/44 Rod:


1917 Rod:


K Frame Rod:


Group shot (2 N's and a bunch of K's):




I didn't measure it but I also have a Pre-29 rod that seems a tad longer than the 1917 rod.
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Old 08-26-2018, 09:43 AM
WR Moore WR Moore is offline
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As I look at the pictures so kindly provided by Lloyd17, it dawns that the really important measurement is from the front tip of the rod to the shoulder that bears on the spring collar.

That being the case, what might work is making a custom spring collar that creates the extra length. Looking at the comparison of all the rods, that might not leave enough threads in the extractor star.

I know the OP doesn't want to hear this, but the best way out may be another barrel with the underlug correctly located for more modern parts. If you're really, really good at matching up with existing threads-or have the right die-shortening the current barrel at the breech end and cutting new threads would also work.

Last edited by WR Moore; 08-26-2018 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:53 AM
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The extractor rods were not shortened with the change to LH threads.

I've not seen the N frame rods vary more than .010"-.015". Generally the 1917s are on the long side of that range.

The difference between the N and K rods is ~.185", somewhat less than 1/4" but you must have a case of mistaken identity: K frame rods and center pins.

The only other possibility is the collar was left out. But I don't think you'd do that plus that doesn't explain the short ctr pins.

You shouldn't have trouble finding an N frame rod. Plus you'd have to turn down that beautiful mushroom knob on the 1917 rod if you used it!

You could always stick in an extra collar.

I have been known to use the barrel knob on RH thread Model 1950 pre models however.
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Last edited by Hondo44; 08-29-2018 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:33 PM
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Well, I was a dummy trying to use a K frame rod I guess. I got a left hand thread N frame rod and it was long enough.Even had to trim it a tiny bit because I had set the barrel back a turn to get it timed right. Drilled and tapped it for the rear sight I got for it. Think I might trim the front of sight main leaf off a bit so it don't stick out so far. Yea, the grips are funky, came on a 2nd model 455 I have. Got to do something about grips. Finish like most Brazilians is rough. Probably going to run it through my bead blaster and then blue it. Haven't decided what to do with lanyard hole. Plug it or stick on an lanyard. Fun parts of the job are done though.

My newest 45 colt




I would have made a longer slimmer barrel before I messed up a big knob rod. I like the big rods. Used one on this guns 45acp brother. On it I kept the big knob and opened up the shroud for it.

Last edited by steelslaver; 08-29-2018 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelslaver View Post
Think I might trim the front of sight main leaf off a bit so it don't stick out so far.

Heck, it casts enough of a shadow you can stay cool in the sun..
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:03 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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Steelslayer,

Nice work!

I like your idea of filling the space between front of rear sight tang and rear of barrel rib. How about using a piece of sight tang?
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:11 PM
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That would work. I used a piece off the rib off a chunk of barrel I had cut down. It is the same width as a sight so just milled back under the sight a little with a shallow slot and soldered it in place. Was about tthe same thinkness as a sight leaf, which would have worked very well.
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