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08-25-2018, 01:59 PM
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Hoppe’s on S&W blueing ?
Smith & Wesson blue finish will get along with Hoppe’s #9 ok?Scrubbing, soaking, or better with a gentle wipe?
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08-25-2018, 02:07 PM
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I would suspect that a literal Rocky mountain of S&W revolvers have been cleaned with several oil tanker loads of Hoppe’s #9 over the years. I have read some of the newer bluing chemicals are not what they use to be, but I have cleaned new S&W just like the old ones to no ill effect. I would not soak a revolver in Hoppes, but the traditional bore cleaning and wipe down should be fine.
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08-25-2018, 02:25 PM
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Newer blueing is not the same as the older blueing. S&W told me more than once to clean the newer guns with only oil. Supposedly, the ammonia in the Hoppes is not good for newer blued guns.
I pretty much slather Hoppes on my guns as I clean them, but they're not blued. Carbon gets everywhere. The blued ones doesn't get Hoppes. But I do follow with a patch of Hoppes through the chambers and the bore after I'm done. Guns don't feel clean to me unless I smell Hoppes.
For those, stick to the environmentally friendly cleaners.
Last edited by kbm6893; 08-25-2018 at 02:39 PM.
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08-25-2018, 02:59 PM
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All I can attest to is that after using Hoppes for decades on S&W's, Colts, Marlins, Winchesters, Remingtons, Brownings, High Standards, Ithaca's, etc. made prior to 1994 it never had any ill effects at all. My normal cleaner, lube and protectant id Rig #2 Oil, but when I procure a new (to me and usually used) gun it usually gets soaked and cleaned in Hoppes before I even shoot it. While Rig #2 is safe for all gun finishes and materials (including new ones) and does an excellent job, Hoppes Solvent is better at cleaning the tough stuff off. Never had a hitch!!
How it fares on newer / modern Smiths - I can not tell you first hand.
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08-25-2018, 03:44 PM
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If all else fails, read the owner's manual. It should be clear as to how to clean it.
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08-25-2018, 04:45 PM
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I couldn't tell you how many dozens of blue S&W revolvers I have cleaned with Hoppe's over the last 45-50 years. Never had a problem.
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08-25-2018, 05:24 PM
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Same as the others.....Hoppe's #9 to clean, followed by oil (CLP is what I use now) to lubricate and protect. Done it for almost 30 years. My couple of nickel guns gets Hoppe's Elite for cleaning.
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08-25-2018, 05:36 PM
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Word on the street always was that Hoppes was harmful to the nickeled guns.
Don't know if that's truth or just folklore as I never experienced such a problem myself.
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08-25-2018, 05:40 PM
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As of about the end of 2017....
They changed the bluing process to a more "environmentally friendly" process that will turn VIOLET on contact with any product with AMMONIA.
Use Hoppe's ELITE on these guns!
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08-25-2018, 05:45 PM
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This really comes down to what vintage blued S&W you're cleaning.
Older should be good to go. Newer, no. Current S&W manual instructs not to use ammoniated or strong alkaline cleaners; H9 contains ammonium hydroxide, a strong alkaline. Members here have wrecked current blued finished not heeding this.
Where the exact cutoff is when S&W changed their bluing process and this became an issue I don't know, but I'd guess somewhere around 2000.
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08-25-2018, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyd
Word on the street always was that Hoppes was harmful to the nickeled guns.
Don't know if that's truth or just folklore as I never experienced such a problem myself.
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Some nickel applications use a copper base; Hoppes is designed to clean away copper. If the nickel is compromised and the Hoppes is given time to set, it can eat away at the copper base.
However, it's my understanding that S&W's nickel process doesn't use a copper base.
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08-25-2018, 06:37 PM
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So Hoppe’s Elite is an “all finish” safe cleaner. And is it as good as #9 ? Really is it as good as #9 ?
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08-25-2018, 07:08 PM
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Figures they would mess with the bluing for the latest "eco friendly nonsense" If it ain't broke don't fix it.
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08-25-2018, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notsofast
So Hoppe’s Elite is an “all finish” safe cleaner. And is it as good as #9 ? Really is it as good as #9 ?
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It cleans well. As well as any other. I find they all clean the same. Then again, I never let my guns go without a cleaning after they’ve been fired so they’re never filthy.
The one newer blued gun I have is a refinished 10-8. I use Hoppes Elite when I clean it. But I still don’t feel a gun is really clean if I don’t smell Hoppes #9.
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08-25-2018, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwsmith
They changed the bluing process to a more "environmentally friendly" process that will turn VIOLET on contact with any product with AMMONIA.
Use Hoppe's ELITE on these guns!
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It was WAY before 2017. The factory was telling me to avoid Hoppes or ammonia in like 2011.
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09-08-2018, 06:28 AM
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While I cannot speak for new model blue guns, I can say with confidence that on older S&W blue revolvers, Hoppe's 9 solvent not only cleans the gun well but makes the blue look better. Just last night I cleaned my Model 19 no dash with Hoppe's 9. Using some patches and cloths, the Hoppe's 9 condtioned the metal and brought out a mirror like finish on the blue steel. I followed up with a layer of Hoppe's oil for protection. The Hoppe's oil also made the wood stocks look brand new.
I have tried many of the new cleaners on the market. Breakfree, M-Pro 7, and Remington products all did a good job. But for some reason only Hoppe's 9 really makes those old blue guns look new.
Last edited by CCantu357; 09-08-2018 at 06:36 AM.
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09-08-2018, 07:44 AM
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I've used Hoppes #9 for decades to clean the barrel and breech, Ballistol or a CLP for the internals. For the rails everything you can imagine from Hoppes Elite to transmission fluid, it all works.
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09-08-2018, 07:58 AM
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I know not being able to use Hoppes to clean a gun probably is a stupid reason to sell my 25-13 Mountain Gun, but my 625-6, also in .45 Colt, serves the same role and I dont have to worry about what solvents I can use and it doesn’t have all the...
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09-18-2018, 08:17 AM
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I have not noticed any problem with hoppes on my newer 57-6. Cleaned it many times with number 9?
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09-18-2018, 05:02 PM
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I'll keep cleaning my new 586 with Hoppes 9. If it ruins the bluing...then GOOD! I'll then be able to send it off to Turnbull for a real and proper bluing job.
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09-18-2018, 05:49 PM
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I believe that contrails have a better chance of damaging bluing than Hoppes number 9. Over a period of 18 years I frequently left a Model 14 -2 in a heated vibra-sonic cleaner, filled with Hoppes number 9, for 16 hours with no damage.
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09-18-2018, 09:38 PM
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I do not believe this is a universal problem. Maybe a defective blue job on a few but no problem on mine so far with hoppes. I want to see actual pictures. Also you can get different answers on the same question from the customer service people at Smith. I am not sure a lot of them really know what is going on with their company.
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09-18-2018, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief38
All I can attest to is that after using Hoppes for decades on S&W's, Colts, Marlins, Winchesters, Remingtons, Brownings, High Standards, Ithaca's, etc. made prior to 1994 it never had any ill effects at all. My normal cleaner, lube and protectant id Rig #2 Oil, but when I procure a new (to me and usually used) gun it usually gets soaked and cleaned in Hoppes before I even shoot it. While Rig #2 is safe for all gun finishes and materials (including new ones) and does an excellent job, Hoppes Solvent is better at cleaning the tough stuff off. Never had a hitch!!
How it fares on newer / modern Smiths - I can not tell you first hand.
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I HAVE TO ROLL WITH THE CHIEF ON THIS. I MUST CONFESS TO NEVER HAVING OWNED A BLUED S&W REVOLVER, SO I HAVE NO FRAME OF REFERENCE TO COMMENT ON THE NEW BLUED GUNS.......
BEING A HANDGUN SHOOTER FOR OVER 60 YEARS, I CUT MY TEETH ON COLT REVOLVERS---SHOOTING AND CARRYING PYTHONS, DIAMONDBACKS, DICK SPECIALS---AND A RUGER MK II, AND A '70 SERIES GOLT CUP NM IN BULLSEYE COMPETITION. ALL OF THESE WEAPONS WERE ROUTINELY DISASSEMBLED, AND SOAKED IN TUPPERWARE CONTAINERS OF THE ORIGINAL FORMULA HOPPES NO. 9, FOR DAYS AT A TIME---WITH NO ILL EFFECTS.....
I WAS A HUGE FAN OF ELMER KEITH, SO I BECAME ENAMORED OF THE .44 MAGNUM CALIBER. TRUE TO MY BRAND---I DID NOT SUCCUMB TO M29 FEVER, IN THE WAKE OF DIRTY HARRY MOVIES. INSTEAD I WAITED FOR COLT TO LAUNCH ITS NEW ANACONDA, IN .44 MAGNUM.....
I ORDERED ONE, WHICH WAS FINALLY DELIVERED AFTER A LONG WAIT. WELL, I JUST COULD NOT WARM UP TO THE GUN. I ENDED UP SELLING IT TO A GUY WHO "HAD TO HAVE IT", FOR JUST WHAT I HAD INTO IT. NOW I WAS BACK TO SQUARE ONE.....
SHORTLY THEREAFTER, A LNIB 8 3/8" M629 "CLASSIC HUNTER" SHOWED UP ON DISPLAY AT MY LGS---ALONG WITH A 1/2 FULL BOX OF THE ORIGINAL AMMO, PURCHASED BY THE RECOIL SENSITIVE, PREVIOUS OWNER. I WAS SMITTEN WITH THE FULL LENGTH LUG UNDER THE LONG BARREL (REMINISCENT OF MY 8" COLT PYTHON), THE UNFLUTED CYLINDER, AND THE FACT THAT IT WAS CONSTRUCTED OF DURABLE, WEATHER RESISTANT, STAINLESS STEEL. I IMMEDIATELY PURCHASED IT ! ! !
AND SO BEGAN MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH S&W REVOLVERS. I RETIRED MY PRECIOUS COLTS, TO SPARE THEM FROM THE WEAR INHERENT WITH HUNTING, FIELD USE, EDC AND HOME DEFENSE. THEY NOW GET GENTLE AND OCCASIONAL RANGE USE.....
S&W STAINLESS REVOLVERS HAVE BECOME MY WEAPON OF CHOICE. I NEVER PURCHASED ANOTHER BLUED REVOLVER. THE LAST COLT I PURCHASED WAS A 4" HIGH POLISHED STAINLESS, PYTHON ELITE. IT HAS A COLT "COMBAT TUNED ACTION". I SOMETIMES CARRY IT IN A SHOULDER RIG.....
BELOW ARE PICS OF MY 8" PYTHON, ME WEARING IT IN A HUNTING RIG, THE PYTHON ELITE, AND 2 OF MY M629s---INCLUDING THE CLASSIC HUNTER.....
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09-18-2018, 11:46 PM
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I don't see a need to 'soak' a revolver in anything. Hoppe's #9 is intended for use in the bore and on other part such as the cylinder that have powder fouling on them. You can leave it in the bore for awhile, scrub with a brush, and then use a tight patch to remove fouling. There should be no need to soak the entire gun.
I do use it on blued revolvers, rifles, and autos and have never seen evidence that it damaged the blueing.
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09-19-2018, 05:26 AM
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I doubt he soaked the whole gun submerged in hoppes,
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09-19-2018, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyo5
I don't see a need to 'soak' a revolver in anything. Hoppe's #9 is intended for use in the bore and on other part such as the cylinder that have powder fouling on them. You can leave it in the bore for awhile, scrub with a brush, and then use a tight patch to remove fouling. There should be no need to soak the entire gun.
I do use it on blued revolvers, rifles, and autos and have never seen evidence that it damaged the blueing.
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I ASSUME THAT YOU ARE REFERRING TO MY POST ABOVE....
ALLOW ME TO CLARIFY. I WOULD REMOVE THE YOKE AND CYLINDER. AND INVERT AND TILT THE FRAME SO THAT THE BARREL WAS SUBMERGED UP TO, AND INCLUDING THE FORCING CONE. I NEVER DID SOAK THE ENTIRE GUN......
BECAUSE OF MY VERY BUSY WORK SCHEDULE, (I WAS WORKING 3 JOBS---6 DAYS AND 5 NIGHTS A WEEK) I COULD LEAVE THE GUN LIKE THAT, UNTIL I HAD THE TIME TO BRUSH AND SWAB THE SOAKED PARTS OUT PROPERLY. THEY CAME SQUEAKY CLEAN WITH VERY LITTLE EFFORT....
AT NO TIME WAS THE SIDEPLATE , OR TRIGGER AREA OF THE RECEIVER SUBMERGED OR SOAKED ! ! !
THE POINT OF MY POST IS THAT THE FINISH OF MY REVOLVERS WAS NEVER HARMED, AND THERE WAS NO DIFFERENCE IN THE APPEARANCE OF THE PARTS THAT WERE SOAKED, AND THE REST OF THE WEAPON........
SO WHILE YOU DON'T SEE A NEED TO SOAK A REVOLVER---I DID ! ! !
WHILE RAISING 2 CHILDREN, I WAS WORKING 10 HOUR DAYS ON MON THRU FRI, AND 8 HOURS ON SATURDAY. OTHER THAN SQUEEZING IN A LITTLE RANGE TIME AFTER AN EARLY CHURCH SERVICE ---MY LIMITED LEISURE TIME WAS DEVOTED TO MY FAMILY ON SUNDAYS......
NECESSITY WAS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION......
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09-19-2018, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribwizzard
I doubt he soaked the whole gun submerged in hoppes,
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RIGHT YOU ARE, Ribwizzard ! ! !
HIS FALSE ASSUMPTION PROMPTED ME TO EXPLAIN MYSELF FURTHER......
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09-20-2018, 11:31 AM
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Went straight to horses mouth and called smith. They said no problems with hoppes ,just use as directed. Do not soak gun over night. No rash of damaged finishes. This mirrors my experience with my newer 57 over the last year or so. I will keep using it like I have for the past 45 years. Incidentally, he said they did change blue about 20 years ago due to regulations but that would be true of all manufacturers.(epa stuff)
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09-20-2018, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogdoc
Went straight to horses mouth and called smith. They said no problems with hoppes ,just use as directed. Do not soak gun over night. No rash of damaged finishes. This mirrors my experience with my newer 57 over the last year or so. I will keep using it like I have for the past 45 years. Incidentally, he said they did change blue about 20 years ago due to regulations but that would be true of all manufacturers.(epa stuff)
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I'M GLAD THAT I NEVER OWNED, NOR DO I NOW OWN, ANY BLUED S&Ws.
IN FACT MY MAJOR REASON FOR JUMPING THE COLT SHIP WAS THAT SMITHS WERE OFFERED IN STAINLESS....
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09-20-2018, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogdoc
Went straight to horses mouth and called smith. They said no problems with hoppes ,just use as directed. Do not soak gun over night. No rash of damaged finishes. This mirrors my experience with my newer 57 over the last year or so. I will keep using it like I have for the past 45 years. Incidentally, he said they did change blue about 20 years ago due to regulations but that would be true of all manufacturers.(epa stuff)
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You should if asked them why they put it in print not to use it.
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09-21-2018, 07:57 AM
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They also say not to use reloaded ammo in print.haha
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09-21-2018, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogdoc
They also say not to use reloaded ammo in print.haha
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There's a reason.
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09-21-2018, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker
There's a reason.
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I guess so. Do you no longer reload?
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09-22-2018, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker
There's a reason.
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A double charge of a fast burning powder will certainly do that.
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09-23-2018, 06:54 AM
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Hoppes #9 is now being used to continually drive home the point that new Smiths are inferior to older Smiths.
The IL seems to be operating properly, frame mounted fireing pins are working, MIM parts aren't being reported to be breaking in newer guns, non pinned barrels aren't falling off or unscrewing from frames, rounds aren't failing to fire or load and eject from non recessed cylinders.
A lot of people post the evils of Hoppes bore cleaner on new blued Smiths but yet, if you read close enough, they state they only have SS guns and no experience with blued guns........I don't get it! Am I missing something?
Finish changes since 2000? Not much evidence of ruined finishes with Hoppes in almost 19 years! No pics of destroyed finishes in this thread. I choose not to believe one picture of one gun that looks purple means Hoppes was solely responsible for it.
Generally speaking, give it a rest already!
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09-23-2018, 09:05 AM
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I have noted that simple light machine and gun oil does as good or better job of bore cleaning than any of the usual bore cleaning solvents. If you doubt that, try a simple test. Clean your fired bore with your usual solvent until the patches come out clean. Then take a patch, saturate it with light oil and swab it through your cleaned bore a few times and look at it.
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09-27-2018, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shocker
There's a reason.
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A little JB Weld will fix that one right up!
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