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Old 08-26-2018, 12:16 PM
Marshal Kane Marshal Kane is offline
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Default Slight Warp S&W Target Grips for K Frame

About a year ago, I bought a pair of very nice S&W target grips for a K frame revolver on eBay. When I installed the grips, I noticed a slight gap at the front strap that could be closed by finger pressure alone. Since then, I've left the grips on the revolver clamped shut with a leather padded C clamp. It's been there for the last 10 months or so. Has anyone had the same experience and how did you fix it to close the gap? Any and all suggestions welcomed and thanks in advance.
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Old 08-26-2018, 12:52 PM
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Wood is Wood it will do whatever it wants. Just live with it and enjoy the revolver.
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:12 PM
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Even if you could get it to move,it would revert back.It wasn't fully cured when it was milled originally.
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Old 08-26-2018, 02:53 PM
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arjay is correct - the wood was probably not dried enough or too quickly and it will always try and revert back to where it wants to be. I'd just get another set and not bother playing with the set you have now.
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Old 08-26-2018, 05:19 PM
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I fit handgun grips to frames with walnut colored epoxy barrel bedding compound if it will be visible from the exterior .
If the gap will be concealed ,I fill/fit it with epoxy putty like J.B. Weld, this is where color isn't important.
No frames are exactly alike and wood might take a set just because it's wood...no way to bend it...so just fit the grips to the frame and let the epoxy fill in any gaps.
I have always used this method and some grips are 40 years old.
Just be sure to use release compound(grease) on the gun frame and do each side seperately ....don't epoxy both sides together....makes grip removal a bear.
Where a wood grip has a gap, apply a strip of scotch tape to one side of the wood, apply a little epoxy bedding to the other wood surface where the gap is , epoxy wont stick to the tape but will adhere to the other grip . Screw the grip screw down barely snug. Make sure the gap is filled and wipe off any excess.
When dry remove the tape and clean up any excess and screw together snugly....this usually takes care of the gap...if not repeat, the second time will get it .
Gary

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Old 08-26-2018, 07:30 PM
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gwpercle:

Thank you sir; I may try that. I have a pair of K-frame targets with the same issue as Marshal Kane's, and I've been thinking of sanding at the appropriate points/areas until the panels come together at the bottom -would take a lot more time, of course; but might match better at the seam(the finish on mine is darker than walnut). I'm in no hurry; I'll think it over.

Regards,
Andy
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:48 AM
Marshal Kane Marshal Kane is offline
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Suggest not taking any wood off the outer edges of the grip halves but rather consider deepening the inletted wood. Taking out the outer edges will only make the crack wider. Each case is different so it's a gamble as to how to fix this. There's no way to replace removed wood.
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Old 08-27-2018, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshal Kane View Post
Suggest not taking any wood off the outer edges of the grip halves but rather consider deepening the inletted wood. Taking out the outer edges will only make the crack wider. Each case is different so it's a gamble as to how to fix this. There's no way to replace removed wood.

Marshal,

I assume that you're responding here to my post; I guess I didn't make myself clear(& maybe misunderstood your initial post). On my grips the gap is only at the bottom of the front joint; not all the way up. Everywhere else they fit properly. This means that not only must the inletted portions of the panels near the top have some wood removed, but also the outer edges at the top(directly behind the trigger guard), and the inside portions along the curved edges at the front and top of the panels. On each of these surfaces I'll have to taper the amount of wood removed so as to bring the joint together at every point. I've successfully corrected irregularities like this in wood before, so I'm confident I can do so on this if I'm patient and have the right tools.

Hope this is clearer.

Regards,
Andy

Last edited by snowman; 08-27-2018 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 08-27-2018, 05:23 PM
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Before you start sanding and recutting the inletting and inner surfaces of the grip faces,, use some inletting black.
Coat the entire grip frame of the revolver where ever the wooden grips cover it.
Use a common tooth brush to get an even, light coating on the metal surface.

Then carefully place the grip halves on the frame and tighten. Then remove just as carefully.
You want to see just exactly where the metal of the frame is touching the wood.

It may surprise you just how little contact the two are making,,or how much total contact in one area there is and nearly none in another.

Don't forget to carefully check how the washer fits into the frame cut and the ears of the grip panel touch or don't touch the frame side plates.

Just a tiny amt of contact can make all the difference in the world in how they fit and meet.

Use the grip screw to tighten them,,don't just squeeze them together on the frame with double hand pressure.
That'll give you a false imprint on the high spots and you'll be working in circles.
Yes it takes time to do.

That's only half the story. The other half is how and if the wood of one panel is in contact with the wood of the other panel on Target style grips.

To check this fit and contact,,you could smear inletting black on one panel alone and carefully set the other in place and tighten. Then remove the second panel and note the high spots.
Or you can use a small carefully cut piece of old fashioned carbon paper that fits the outline you are checking.
Place the carbon paper in between the two grip halves where they contact each other and tighten the screw. Then take them apart and again note the high spots.
You'll have to do each panel and the carbon paper method leaves the surfaces clean(er) than the former method so you can see the markings better.

All this leaves you with some work to do.
Stock work of taking down high spots to allow the low spots to make contact.
The 'gap' at the front toe of the grip is nothing more than a low spot in one panel or both.

Bringing the high spots in the inletting and the surface panel contact surfaces down will make for a much better fit and at the same time close up that 'gap' as the grips and frame come together.

You'll have to re-spot the inletting over and over again to gradually work the grips and frame down to the required point of that perfect fit.
It's slow work,,it's gunstock work.
This is why not many people want to do this anymore or pay someone what it's worth to this anymore.

Just going after it with sand paper backed up on a flat surface trying to lower or bevel the grip to grip contact areas and then go back and re-inlet the frame cuts is loosing battle.

M/O of course,,but that's the way I do it.
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:22 PM
Marshal Kane Marshal Kane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman View Post
Marshal,

I assume that you're responding here to my post; I guess I didn't make myself clear(& maybe misunderstood your initial post). On my grips the gap is only at the bottom of the front joint; not all the way up. Everywhere else they fit properly. This means that not only must the inletted portions of the panels near the top have some wood removed, but also the outer edges at the top(directly behind the trigger guard), and the inside portions along the curved edges at the front and top of the panels. On each of these surfaces I'll have to taper the amount of wood removed so as to bring the joint together at every point. I've successfully corrected irregularities like this in wood before, so I'm confident I can do so on this if I'm patient and have the right tools.

Hope this is clearer.

Regards,
Andy
Andy,
In no way am I doubting your ability to work with wood. I have tried taking out interior grip wood beyond the inletting on another pair of K frame target grips and much to my chagrin only widen the gap between the grip panels. I only mentioned this so others won't make the same mistake and not to cast any doubts on your woodworking skills. That wasn't the intent of my post at all.
Marshal
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2152hq View Post
Before you start sanding and recutting the inletting and inner surfaces of the grip faces,, use some inletting black.
Coat the entire grip frame of the revolver where ever the wooden grips cover it.
Use a common tooth brush to get an even, light coating on the metal surface.

Then carefully place the grip halves on the frame and tighten. Then remove just as carefully.
You want to see just exactly where the metal of the frame is touching the wood.

It may surprise you just how little contact the two are making,,or how much total contact in one area there is and nearly none in another.

Don't forget to carefully check how the washer fits into the frame cut and the ears of the grip panel touch or don't touch the frame side plates.

Just a tiny amt of contact can make all the difference in the world in how they fit and meet.

Use the grip screw to tighten them,,don't just squeeze them together on the frame with double hand pressure.
That'll give you a false imprint on the high spots and you'll be working in circles.
Yes it takes time to do.

That's only half the story. The other half is how and if the wood of one panel is in contact with the wood of the other panel on Target style grips.

To check this fit and contact,,you could smear inletting black on one panel alone and carefully set the other in place and tighten. Then remove the second panel and note the high spots.
Or you can use a small carefully cut piece of old fashioned carbon paper that fits the outline you are checking.
Place the carbon paper in between the two grip halves where they contact each other and tighten the screw. Then take them apart and again note the high spots.
You'll have to do each panel and the carbon paper method leaves the surfaces clean(er) than the former method so you can see the markings better.

All this leaves you with some work to do.
Stock work of taking down high spots to allow the low spots to make contact.
The 'gap' at the front toe of the grip is nothing more than a low spot in one panel or both.

Bringing the high spots in the inletting and the surface panel contact surfaces down will make for a much better fit and at the same time close up that 'gap' as the grips and frame come together.

You'll have to re-spot the inletting over and over again to gradually work the grips and frame down to the required point of that perfect fit.
It's slow work,,it's gunstock work.
This is why not many people want to do this anymore or pay someone what it's worth to this anymore.

Just going after it with sand paper backed up on a flat surface trying to lower or bevel the grip to grip contact areas and then go back and re-inlet the frame cuts is loosing battle.

M/O of course,,but that's the way I do it.
^^^That right there.

I have done this many times.
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Old 08-28-2018, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshal Kane View Post
Andy,
In no way am I doubting your ability to work with wood. I have tried taking out interior grip wood beyond the inletting on another pair of K frame target grips and much to my chagrin only widen the gap between the grip panels. I only mentioned this so others won't make the same mistake and not to cast any doubts on your woodworking skills. That wasn't the intent of my post at all.
Marshal
Hi, Marshal. I apologize for my failure to communicate well -I wasn't suspecting you of casting doubt on my skills, but I guess it came across that way. Am sorry that your previous effort to make a grip fit didn't turn out as you wanted. Thanks for the heads up -I'll ponder things carefully before beginning.

Regards,
Andy
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:43 AM
Marshal Kane Marshal Kane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman View Post
Hi, Marshal. I apologize for my failure to communicate well -I wasn't suspecting you of casting doubt on my skills, but I guess it came across that way. Am sorry that your previous effort to make a grip fit didn't turn out as you wanted. Thanks for the heads up -I'll ponder things carefully before beginning.

Regards,
Andy
No need for apologies, no feelings hurt, you communicated in a polite way. I could have made my post clearer. Hope to hear from you again.

Marshal
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Old 08-29-2018, 01:20 PM
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Wood will move naturally due to the growth rings in the wood. The closer to the center of a log the tighter the rings and the more 'warpage' is likely.
Moisture will distort wood, some woods absorb moisture more than others. Here is a product that could possible be of help:

Swell-Lock is unsurpassed for tightening wood joints. Everything from chair rungs, mortise and tenon joints, dowel joints to hammer and axe handles and other socket joints can be tightened up with Swell-Lock. Simply clean the wood surface and apply Swell-Lock to the portion to be tightened then press together. Swell-Lock is not a glue, it actually works by swelling the wood.
It might be worth a try. If it works then consider a good hand rubber oil finish on the exposed inner wood of the handles to seal them against further expansion and contraction.

Karl
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Old 08-29-2018, 02:47 PM
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I've fixed this by gluing a piece of walnut veneer on the gap edge then carefully sanding it flush. If done carefully and correctly, it won't even show.
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