Am always on the lookout for a verifiably high quality lube or oil for my 9mm semi. Have used a bunch, and they all seem to work well. Read in NRA’s current edition of “Shooting Illustrated” (p. 32) that Sentry Product’s Tuf Cloth and Tuf Glide are very effective in just about every weather condition. Also stumbled upon a product by Nano, which features not only an excellent lube/oil for knife maintenance, but also for pistols. Then they gum up their marketing to a non-scientific mind like mine by featuring 3 different grades(?) for different parts of your pistol: 5, +10, and +85. But the idea of using more than one kind of oil or lube for maintenance doesn’t have much allure.

Anyone have actual hands-on experience with either of these? I welcome your take on them.

Seems like you have actual real world experience. Why not stick with what works for you rather than a snake oil salesman? Oil is pretty much oil.

__________________
Some collect art; I shoot it!

Just about ANY oil will work, including automotive oils; I like Mobil 1. Use whatever gives you confidence in your weapon’s function and reliability.

Lots of "seasoned" folks here use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. In the old days we used 3in1 oil or Singer sewing machine oil.

__________________
John

I have used Hoppe's No.9 to clean my guns for 45 years plus, lubrication has been a moving target. After owning several Sigs I now believe that it is important to grease the rails on alloy frame pistols. With that in mind, I use Mobil 1 grease or TW25, for oil, Slip 2000 EWL. A long time ago my pal forgot to bring a oil can to the range to break-in his accurized 1911, he used oil from the dip stick!

__________________
Made it, Ma! Top of the world!

For general purposes just about any major brand product that's been around for a while should work - HOWEVER for carry guns I'd recommend Rig #2 or Remoil because the carrier evaporates leaving dry protectants behind. Ya don't want a carry gun to be weeping oil all over or for the oil to get on clothing, holsters, seats, etc. The two have been my mainstay for many many years.

The problem with firearm lubricants is their cost. Tetra gun (To mention one) has an outstanding series of lubricants, but if you use them in bulk as I do, $96.00/pound or $64.00/quart runs into real money for me.
Mobil1 motor oil is popular, cheaper, and would be an outstanding oil if it weren't for the chemicals dumped into it.
Mobil1 75w90 gear lube gives all the advantages of the motor oil, without the chemical dump. Mobil1 red grease is good for sliding surfaces and relatively cheap.

_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.

I've heard a retired armorer comment on YouTube that cheap mineral oil is just as effective as high priced products.

Here is a comprehensive article on lubricants...

Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - www.GrantCunningham.com www.GrantCunningham.com

"Lube or Snake Oil?"

Yes.

__________________
Pisgah

Most of the specialty gun oils on the market are mineral oil. Check the specs and you would be shocked at how many use mineral oil base...it's "green" biodegradeable etc... Rem-Oil is mineral oil with micro-Teflon .

Except for synthetic oils, which date back to WWII , not a lot of new stuff has been developed...there is no magic lubricant.

A bought a expensive small bottle (2 oz.) of Lucas Gun Oil , it looked and smelled a lot like thinned Automatic Transmission Fluid. The stuff was a decent lube it just cost way too much $6.00 for 2 oz.
I came across some DIY stuff , a poor mans CLP if you will, that works just as well and cost much less . A 50-50 mix of Dexron ATF ($5.47) and K-1 Kerosene ($5.27) 1 quart each , mixed you get 64 ounces for $11.01 ! That beats $6.00/2 0zs. seven ways to Sunday.
It's a good CLP and except for the advertising hype, might be the same stuff as Lucas Gun Oil !
Gary

Basically use whatever works best for what you do with the gun. Just about any oil will work for range use,as you tend to clean or wipe down the gun when you're done.Something that gets used in inclement weather ( rain,snow etc. ) should be an oil that resists the tendency to " wash out " when it gets water on it. Avoid using any kind of penetrating oil as they tend to evaporate and leave very little to no lubrication.

__________________
1st smiles,lies.Last,gunfire.

Snake Oil works about as good as mineral oil or Mobil 1. I tend to use the latter due to the costs associated with Snake Oil.

Rem Oil or Mobil 1 now... I used singer that my father used... switched to Rem Oil later... and a late friend used Mobil 1 on his museum quality BAR & MA Deuce... that convinced me...

I started using Royal Purple because I got samples in little dropper bottles at equipment shows. It is a synthetic like Mobil1 but the little bottles are sure handy. Since I have retired and no longer go to equipment shows, I bought a quart of Royal Purple and refilled the little bottles. Should last the rest of my life. Couldn't ask for better lubricant.

Ran out of the “boutique” $pray oil I had been using in the middle of a maintenance cleaning. Noticed a mostly ignored can of 3in1 oil that had been shuffled to the back of the shelf, it’s just slightly heavier than the other stuff but it’s pretty slippery. Moved it from the back of the shelf to the front, think it’s gonna be alright

For a long time I used watch and clock oil. While in years past it was sperm oil from whales, that is no longer available and something else is used at present. The major feature of watch and clock oil is that it does not get gummy and stays in place. I still have most of a 4 ounce bottle of watch and clock oil on my shelf.

if you want a good inexpensive lube make up some Ed's Red. Real
easy to do and works well. I make mine without the solvents as a
general gun oil.

If you really want to know what's in your lube of choice, Pull up
the SDS( safety data sheet ) for it. You'll find quite a few of the
gun oils out there are mineral oil and/or kerosene based.

__________________
never get out of the boat

The late Warren Page, longtime gunwriter and benchrest competitor, had access to lots of products. When asked what his favorite bore cleaner was, he replied, "whatever's free!" The same probably applies to lubricants as well.

I'm using the same gallon jug of BreakFree I bought over 25 years ago. Sure, i've used plenty of other stuff at the range, especially after officially sanctioned practice and training sessions or qualifications. I don't even know what the stuff was. I'm sure it was cheap, maybe military surplus.

I've also used motor oil (done the dipstick thing) and sewing machine oil. Sure Hoppes too and whatever comes in the cheap gun cleaning kits, if it's not Hoppes. And yeah, I've used WD40 more than a few times.

But I still have some of the BreakFree left, less than a quart. Unlike the new BreakFree my old stuff smells great. The new stuff doesn't seem to have that pleasing sweet aroma.

I use NAPA air tool oil for semiautos
seems to work well for me.

After reading a magazine article about testing various oils for their
ability to prevent rust I decided to duplicate the author's methods with
the oils and greases that I had available to me. My results were similar
to the author's and I have used Breakfree CLP ever since. There really
is a difference in oils regardless of what some folks seem to think.

Can't offer the OP any feedback as I've never used those products. Been using Corrosion X for a long, long time. I do use high temp bearing grease on frame rails and I keep a bottle of 3 but don't use it much any more. I too remember the Singer sewing machine oil. I do use mineral oil but only on my knives that might be used for eating/food prep.

__________________
BCCI Life Member #2068

I have used the Tuf Cloth. It is a great product for corrosion prevention. I would recommend it.

You know... I'm gonna be that guy that is going to admit that YOU guys and myself has fallen prey to good ol' fashioned American marketing..

There are a ridiculous amount of products all aimed at us consumers by companies trying hard to get you to buy their products. They all basically perform the same goal; clean, lubricate and protect and IMHO most guys out there overthink what I believe is really something simple...

Pull out a $2.50 bottle of Hoppes #9 and a .99 cent bottle of Rem-oil and you'll be fine... save your money and use something that has been proven on firearms for many years...

But they ruined the new stuff when they took away that wonderfully pleasant aroma that just shouts guns to me. Other than the smell I don't know if it's chanced substantially. I believe my first bottle of Breakfree was labeled under the Radio Shack "Archer" brand.

I always have to be different. I like to use Castrol motorcycle motor oil. It has additives that aren't in automobile motor oil. I use it on my conventional guns and also on my machinegun.

Buy yourself a trigger spray bottle of Tri Flow lube.
It's the old formula Breakfree CLP.
I love the old formula. Hate the new formula Breakfree.
Triflow - Tri-Flow Pin Point Lubricator

Or, the drip bottle.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Tri-Flow-...6-Oz/119306086

Other options for it.

We use it at work. Every time I use/bill some, I get a new bottle of it restocked on my service van.

__________________
What would Jim Cirillo do?

I have to agree with you. I had a quart bottle that had that great
smell that lasted a long time but I finally used it up. My new
bottles I've used since then don't have the same smell. I've
also wondered if the formula has been changed.

Tri-flow is the old Breakfree??? Really??? That's good to know.

Thanks!

And some products, such as Hoppes #9 lubricanting oil, actually contain nothing else besides mineral oil.

For gun oiling I like Yamaha musical instrument valve oil. Valve oils are quite thin and of very high quality. No snake oils are used for musical instruments. Sticky valves are very noticeable and will not be tolerated.

I've been using Gunslick (comes in little toothpaste tubes & getting difficult to find) for 50 years on semi-auto moving parts. It is a black liquid with graphite, so it's best used on target pistols & not an EDC gun (I tend to use too much & it is a mess if it gets on your clothes)…

What I've got after reading this and the many threads on the best oils is this, they are all good. Never read about any of these oils wearing a gun out.Use what smells good to you, BUT USE IT!

They may all be good, but Ballistol is very good. And it's fine for the wood on your grips, your bench, as well as leather. It does it all for lubricating, in my experience and cleans the bore too. I use it on my knives, door hinges, you name it.

Pequod

I use ultima lube II by Wilson Combat. I watched WC do a bearing wear test and no other gun lube could stop a bearing lock up except Ultima Lube. I think it cost me about $10 for 4 oz. bottle that I have just less than half a bottle left after 7 years use. It only takes a minute couple pin head drops to protect the gun.
Label says oil made from petroleum distillates and synthetic hydrocarbons. Says slickest substance known to man. I sort of wonder if it isn't basically synthetic ATF or motor oil. WC claims the oil penetrates the metal and even in the wear test with the oil wiped off the bearing test did not lock up.

I oiled two guys guns at work and they both were amazed how much smoother their semi auto slides moved.
Ultima-Lube II | Oil | 4 oz. Bottle-https://shopwilsoncombat.com/

My preferred gun oil is a homemade mixture of Mobil 1, STP, and a drop of snake oil. One part STP, 2 parts Mobil 1, and a small container of M-Pro7 (snake oil).

It is a heavy oil that is outstanding for the exterior , hinge points, and bore after clean. I have left revolvers in my gun safe for 2 years and when they come out, the oil is still there to the touch and not at all sticky. Great long term storage.

Inside the mechanism usually gets Barricade aerosol and wherever else needs only a light oiling.

__________________
Gary
SWCA 2515

My former employer did rubber compounding and the associated chemicals. As EH&S part of my job involved proper disposal of hazardous waste. Once I received a call from Quality saying there was a 55 gallon drum of compounding oil that was out of date and needed disposed. Looking at the SDS I found it was food grade mineral oil. I'd have taken the whole drum if I could have off loaded it on my truck once I got home. As it was I only took 10 gallons. Mixed half and half with some Dextron ATF I had around it seems to be working great.