I just bought a 1972 vintage, 3" bbl. Model 36-1. The cylinder binds- up. My gunsmith rejected my suggestion that the hand or -the ejector was the culprit. He diagnosed it as endshake. He suggested I buy a new screw (yoke screw?). Is this the correct part: 053110000? He also said a cylinder shim might help. I like that idea better. Do the shims work pretty well? He also showed me how I could manually correct the endshake, with a 2-hand grip, so that my left (weak hand) index finger is in front of the yoke; that actually does fix the problem, but I'm just afraid that I might forget that in an emergency, and that would make for an unpleasant experience. Help.

I'll teach you how to start a chainsaw to..

#1, find a new gunsmith. At the very least it will be painful to your finger. With high pressure cartridges index fingers have been cut off.

#2, determine if it's cyl end shake or yoke end shake with careful observation.

If it's the cyl, shims work very well and likely last your lifetime.

If it's yoke end shake:

Take the #2 side plate screw, the one behind the yoke screw and swap it for the yoke screw. But 1st pull the yoke and look for problems on the yoke button.

Now try the #2 screw in the yoke screw hole because it may need fitting. If the yoke binds on opening, the screw could be too long or too fat. Back it out one turn. If yoke doesn't bind take a couple of file strokes off the length.

If it still binds, the tip is too fat. Spin the tip of the screw in 400 grit paper until the yoke doesn't bind. If you sand off too much you'll have yoke end play again.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Wow. What did you ever do to the gunsmith to make him dislike you enough to give advice that is guaranteed to cause injury? The experience will definitely be unpleasant.

Say, Hondo, thanks for that info. I believe I have cylinder endshake, not the yoke. I'm going to buy a set of shims and try to fix it that way.
This revolver does function; I shot 3 full cylinders with it. It was just the binding, it was so bad that I can't imagine relying on it if I have to get up at 2:00 a.m. and go see why the alarm got set off.
I will update this thread after I obtain and install those shims, maybe in a month. Thanks again for taking the time to share your thoughts about correcting my issue.

I can recommend these folks when you look for shims. Great to deal with, and high quality products.

Revolver Cylinder Shims

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

158Grain, To check for end shake, with the cylinder closed and trigger held back, see if there is back and forth play of the cylinder. If you do shim the yoke, the resulting gap between the barrel forcing cone and front of the cylinder should be between 0.004" and 0.010" and the distance between rear of the cylinder and the recoil plate should be between 0.060" and 0.068". This rear measurement is your headspace.

__________________
Ed

Really dude, taking advice like that can cost you your fingers!

__________________
On the whistle draw and fire 6

Thanks, 951. I'd already found that site, and that Shively has a good rep. I searched this S&W Forum before I posted my question.

Oldchief, I did that, and the cylinder does move back and forth. I haven't found my feeler gauge, though; I have a go-no go gauge, but all I know is, it's out in the garage somewhere. But those measurements will help, thanks.

On this other point, for everybody who dislikes the gunsmith's suggestion of using my left index finger pad as a living shim has to be taken with a grain of salt. This guy had me meet him about 8:00 a.m., after he had finished his 3d trick in a food factory. He may not have communicated exactly what he meant. That said, I will not use his technique to arrest the end shake; I value my fingers too much.

OldChief, I checked the gaps with my go/no go feeler gauge. This is without my installing any shims. In the front it is .008 between cyl. and forcing cone. In the back, .075. Front is within your parameters, rear is well outside your upper limit. The cylinder has significant play with trigger held back. I will purchase the cylinder shims and post the results here.

OldChief, I took rec'd my shims today. I bought a 6-pack of 2 each .002, .003, and .004. I believe the endshake is gone. Not knowing where to start, I installed a single .002 shim, put the revolver back together, and to repeat, the endshake is gone. It had other benefits: the cylinder had been sluggish, but now it moves freely, not like brand new, but most of the friction is abated. Also, when I had the cylinder open, it would drag on opening and closing, but that is fixed. I have not fired this revolver, but I'll try that over the weekend. I am really pleased with the Shively product and the ease of correcting the problem; even I could do it. I will post again, after I have been to the range.

I too can strongly recommend Lance at Trigger Shims....Great Christian people.
...and Hondo44 is right. Put that 'smith on the "don't do business with" list.
If you only need a few thousands to bring it into spec. Say .003-.009 or so. Shims are a good fix. If much more than .010 I would find a "real" revolver smith that can proper stretch and recut the crane.
HTH: Phil

When you recover from blowing off your index finger, you'll no longer need the gun. Send me a PM and I'll take it off your hands.

__________________
John

Really a stupid post. You didn't even read my Sept. 6 reply to Oldchief, where I detailed my eliminating the endshake by installing a shim. You clearly had nothing to add to the narrative.

I fixed the problem. Look at my 09/06/18 reply to Oldchief.

Oldchief to follow up on my repair to the Model 36-1: I finally made it to the range last weekend. This revolver has no more endshake. Also eliminating this problem added accuracy. I hit a pop can that was suspended from a string then I hit it again when it landed on the ground. This was from 15' no great distance but perfect for a pocket carry gun. Thanks again for your help and courtesy.