Normally shoot 30 to 50 rounds weekly in a Mod 19 and Mod 625 JM. Shoot lead bullets - Speer 148 lead wad cutter and Orgeon Trail 200 gr lead SWC.
What is an effective way to assure no lead build up and remove lead already there. Thanks

get a package of copper choreboy at the grocery,wrap a few strands around a bore brush and scrub the barrel with it dry.Half a dozen passes will shave the lead right out

For years I've used Hoppe's #9; but just recently, I tried PRO-SHOT Products 1Step Gun Cleaner & Lubricant. I have been very positively impressed to the point that I will probably use it as my #1 application for leaded barrels.

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Dave Brown
SWCA #3279

There are no doubt numerous ways to tackle a leaded bore, but I use Kroil in the bore if I see any leading. Spray the bore well, allow about 30 minutes for the Kroil to creep under the depsits. Then use a bronze brush and patches.

Leaves a mirror finish in the bore.

Bayou52

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Bayou52
NRA Life Member

Lewis lead remover.

I have always found 148 grain LWC's always lead a bit more in .357 Magnum Revolvers than in .38 Special Revolvers. Because of this I restrict my 148 grain LWC's to a M15 which are quite accurate.

The Lewis Lead Remover sold by Brownell's is your friend!

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This is the easiest method.

What you use to clean your weapon is like caliber wars/debates, everybody's got a favorite, i.e. Hoppes, Frog Lube, Clean Bore, etc. Regardless of what you use to clean your weapon, just clean it after each & every range outing, PERIOD!

I just use Hoppes #9 and a brush and scrub away until clean. Then lightly apply Rem oil down the bore.

There is a really neat little product that I use after I shoot a lot of my lead reloads and that's a Lewis lead removal tool... It's a aluminum T-rod that you slide down the barrel then screw on a attachment with a bronze mesh that you affix on the end then run it a few times down the bore. It does a great job of removing lead deposits without using harsh stinky solvents. The tool also comes with another attachment that cleans deposits from inside the forcing cone. It is a great tool that will in no way shape or form harm the pistol...


BROWNELLS LEWIS LEAD REMOVER | Brownells

Copper Choreboy is good but make certain it’s 100% copper, not copper coated steel! If the package is not clear about this, take a magnet and test the stuff. Magnet won’t attract 100% copper!

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So long ... Ken

I just shoot a dozen jacketed bullets, then clean as normal.

the best way i have found is to not shoot naked lead bullets!

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ask questions- then shoot!

Lead in the barrel is the " end result " not the initial reason . The cylinder throats need to be checked for proper size . The barrel needs to be checked for tight spots where the barrel threads onto the frame and tight spots down the barrel where the roll stamping on the side of the barrel is . My 357's shoot very very clean but I did my " due diligence " on the above area's of concern and corrected those problem area's . The cast bullets need to be the proper size (proper fit is king) , not always what you can buy . In my 45's I shoot cast bullets sized 454 in revolvers . In my 38's/ 357's I cast and shoot .358 . Proper lube is very important too . Not that " crayon " stuff that comes on most commercial stuff . good luck , regards Paul

Do they even make/sell 100% copper cleaning pads? Everyone I looked at says "coated".

Chore Boy brand is still 100% copper (or nearly so - their web site says it's 99.99+ %). That's been my favorite lead removal method for decades. A few strands wrapped around a brush or mop does the job in no time.

Search for 100% copper scrubbers at Amazon. They also have this stuff in a roll of mesh which looks as if it might be easier to cut off a piece to wrap around a used bore brush to perform lead removal.

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So long ... Ken

What about a small patch of lead removal cloth? I usually cut a little piece and work it in the forcing cone. Cant see it harming barrel

Years ago, I read a brief report in the Cast Bullet Association magazine by the editor regarding leaded bores. He mentioned that he was able to remove leading without brushing by using Shooters Choice solvent. I've never tried this, instead using most of the methods already described here.

Keep in mind, the editor of a cast bullet magazine probably doesn't have call to remove heavy leading, so the Shooters Choice worked fine. May be worth a try.

Hello All ,
In my experience to clean barrels from leading , I have used Remington bore cleaner . It has sub micron particles of silicon carbide . Using a patch on an old bore brush so that it fits tightly and to the bottom of the groove . Several passes with out removing it fron the barrel will leave the inside mirror bright . This method also works for rifle barrels . I have used this in polygonal rifled barrels when I have shot lead bullets then wanted to shoot jacketed slugs . This is only my experience ,your results may vary .

I bought some O Cedar 'Copper Scrubbers' at Walmart a few years ago. 100% copper.

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I've still got it made.

Keep your velocities to about 800 fps and use a Lewis Lead Remover. It's old school but there is a reason why they are still selling them after about 60 years.

SiC is the second hardest material known to man after diamond...it does does not sound like something I want in my barrel.

I use dry chore boy in dry barrel, works like a champ, 2-3 passes and the lead falls right out as a gray powder, leaves barrel squeaky clean from lead. Then hoppe's 9 and then ballistol to finish of.

The Chore Boy trick works so well there is no need to even consider any other method, in my experience.

Silicon Carbide?????

Edited to add: OK, the Lewis lead remover works fine also, but costs a lot more.

I found 100% copper Chore Boy at Ace Hardware. $3 for a lifetime supply.

Use a tight bore mop and do this outdoors. A couple of back and forth scrubs and you'll see glitter coming out of the barrel when you pull out the mop. That's why it's a good idea to do it outdoors.

Cub Foods carries it here (MN).

I was going to say pretty much the same thing. Most of the replies here are excellent, if you just want to address the symptom. If you want to fix the problem, you gotta take all the measurements, do the math, and find/fix the flaws. Each step, the bullet must maintain diameter, or be reduced by preferably .001", perhaps .002" at most. You also want a good gas seal along the way. So, from cylinder throat to entrance of bore something like .358" to the same or .357" is great. Make sure your barrel/cylinder gap is to spec (.005-.006" +/- .003") and that the forcing cone is not too shallow, too deep, or eroded. Check for bore constriction where barrel and frame thread together. Bore should maintain groove diameter, or slightly choke. Any place a bullet can upset larger will be a problem.
I avoid 38 special brass in 357 chambers for much this reason.
Most problems can be fixed. Cylinder throats can be reamed, forcing cones can be recut, barrels can be lapped.
Fixing the problems will greatly enhance your shooting enjoyment.

Best Regards,
Jim

I started shooting in the late 70's with my first gun, model 19. Back then, the standard answer to this question was to end your shooting session with 6 rounds of jacketed bullets. To this day I still do this and have very little lead fouling to deal with.

Swap barrel with your favorite cleaner. Scrub with bronze brush 10~20 times. Inspect. Repeat until clean. Firing 30-50 rounds you probably won't have to repeat unless the bullets are way too hard or undersized for the throats. I typically will shoot anywhere from 100 to 500 rounds through a gun at a range session and rarely have to spend more than 30 minutes cleaning it.