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Old 09-24-2018, 11:33 AM
retired2006 retired2006 is offline
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This is a little off topic for this forum, but I will give it a try:

I would like to make the dark walnut fore end of my O/U lighter in color to match the butt stock better, anyone have any idea how this can be done ? I will strip the original finish off of course and refinish with poly urethane to match the finish on the butt stock.
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Old 09-24-2018, 11:37 AM
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Sounds like you are on the right track already.
Strip it then pick a light enough stain to match.
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Old 09-24-2018, 11:53 AM
mmaher94087 mmaher94087 is offline
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There is also a Wood Bleach product that may be used if the wood itself is too dark after removing the finish.
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:08 PM
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It sure is a lot easier and faster to make wood darker than lighter. Could you could work on the butt stock instead to match the forearm?
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:34 PM
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Strip them both to bare wood , get an assortment of stains in different colors and remember...both woods will only get darker.
Your best bet is to darken the light wood to match the dark .
Staining woods to match one another can be tricky , If the stain isn't looking like a good match....remove it before it dries and try again.
I have this same problem with WWII military 2 piece stocks ...they didn't care about wood colors matching at the time . At times I've had to apply one color stain to the butt stock and a totally different color stain to the foreend/handguard to get them both looking the same shade .
Gary

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Old 09-25-2018, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmaher94087 View Post
There is also a Wood Bleach product that may be used if the wood itself is too dark after removing the finish.
Where can I get this product ? do you have a product brand name ?

thanks
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Old 09-25-2018, 12:06 PM
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Zinsser Wood Bleach.
Any big box , Home Depot ,Lowe's etc , that sells wood finishing supplies.
Do a search to locate nearest dealer in your area.
Gary
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:21 PM
2152hq 2152hq is offline
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Wood Bleach is the way to go.
Do not use ordinary Laundry Bleach. That is sodium hypochlorite and can cause severe rust to the steel gun parts later on.

Wood bleach is Oxalic Acid a very mild acid that has been used for this purpose on wood for centurys.

I haven't used it that long, but maybe the last 40 yrs or so when needed for projects such as yours.

I used to buy mine under the trade name 'Savogran' at a HomeDepot or Lowes, ect. Lately I've had problems finding it,,I'll explain that below..

Plain white crystals of oxalix acid. Simply mix with plain water in a glass jar with a lid that you can use to save any left over for the next project. I use a simple 2 tbs of crystals to a qt of water mix.
Then I warm the mix in the microwave for about 30 to 40 SECONDS.

Apply the stuff to the wood with a regular paint brush,,slosh it on,,dunk the wood right in the jar if it fits like grips or a forend.
Use eye protection as it can sting. It's not bad on your hands unless you have a cut or two,,then you wish you's have worn some plastic gloves.

The wood will start to lighten up right away. Keep at it till it is as light as you want it or it won't lighten any more.
Then rinse the wood with cool water under the faucet,,brushing the surface with the same paint brush flushing the stuff from the wood.

Don't worry about getting the wood wet,,it won't harm it.
Be very careful when handling the wet wood though as it will dent easily even with your fingernail. It'll be hard once again when dry.

Let the wood dry on it's own. Don't force dry it with a torch, over the stove or in a hot box w/a light bulb, ect. Don't leave it on the back porch in the sun or on the dash board of the PU.
Just hang it in an area where there's decent ventilation and no direct sun or forced air heat and it'll dry just fine in a day or two ready for sanding, staining and finishing.

The surface will take staining and finishing beautifully after the treatment and you may also find that small dents have been raised. That because of the warm temp of the soln used. It'll also even up and remove discolorations from dirt in the wood, old finished and marks.
It's an old cabinet (re)finishers treatment.

Regarding not being able to find the Savogran and other WoodBleach products on the shelf lately as I used to,,I don't know if that's just a local thing here (NE) or something to do with the chemical itself.
It's certainly not a dangerous chemical,,extremely weak soln is even used as an eye wash.

This last adventure to the stores to buy some was met with strange looks from the clerks and wrinkled brows as they searched their computers for the strange substance known only to me. "No" they said,,nothing like that in stock I was told.
I then spotted some Deck Cleaner in large 2gal metal cans for 9.98.
One was a silicate substance for use in pressure washers.
But the other was simply 'Oxalic Acid' on the lable. For washing and brightening the wood.
Perfect!..One large can to go and I was on my way.
It works perfectly. It's a slightly thicker soln than plain water.
I mixed it about the same as the old crystals,,a couple tbs in a qt of water and warmed it up.
It worked great... and on a James Purdey late 1890's SxS shotgun stock and forend.
A fine test piece I figured...
Made the old dullard of a piece of old growth English Walnut wood come to life once again and ready for some minor repairs, refinishing and checkering.
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