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Old 10-10-2018, 05:53 PM
kbm6893 kbm6893 is offline
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Default Proper Way to Unscrew Ejector Rod

I know they’ve had a left handed thread since the late 50’s. One of my revolvers is a K38 from early 1957. The rest are all 70’s-early 90’s.

So if it am looking down the Cylinder as if the gun was pointed at me, and the ejector rod is pointing at me, to unscrew the rod for the newer revolvers, I’d have to turn the rod clockwise. Is that clockwise from the front of the cylinder as the rod faces me?

It seems easier to turn the cylinder while holding the rod. So padded vise or padded vice grip, and then turn the cylinder right or left?

And which way for my K38? We’re they still using right hand threads on pre model number guns?

Last edited by kbm6893; 10-10-2018 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:18 PM
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Others may disagree (who are we kidding... they WILL disagree), but messing with a S&W ejector rod when you don't have the tool to properly do it is far too much risk to reward, IMO.

Brownell's sells the tool, I think it's $20, the tool works every time and will last longer than humankind will.
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:21 PM
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And make sure you fill up the chambers with empty cases too.
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevens View Post
Others may disagree (who are we kidding... they WILL disagree), but messing with a S&W ejector rod when you don't have the tool to properly do it is far too much risk to reward, IMO.

Brownell's sells the tool, I think it's $20, the tool works every time and will last longer than humankind will.
I bought the tool. It never worked well. One of the inserts fell off and I had to epoxy it back on. When I tighten it very tight and turn it the tool would spin on the rod and rod not move. I just bought a pretty beat up mode 10 and completely disassembled and cleaned. Needed to wrap the rod in a piece of leather and unscrew by spinning the cylinder. All is well but want to see if there’s a better way. I watched a video from Midway USA and Larry Potter spin-off tbe cylinder to the right I believe as he had the rod in the padded vice.

And yes, I had dummy rounds in the cylinder as I did it.
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:28 PM
WR Moore WR Moore is offline
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If you've got a drill press or lathe you can put the rod in the chuck if you can lock the spindle. Use some muscle on the chuck wrench. Works much better than either of the tools I bought to do it.

Possibly take a pair of channel locks and modify the jaws to remove the teeth and grip the OD of the rod?
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:04 PM
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Ace hardware sells a pin vice that goes up to .41 in size (basically a drill chuck but as a hand tool).
I use this to chuck up the ejector rod, with two empty cases in the cylinder to prevent damage to the ejector.
Easy as pie. $11 at your local Ace.
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbm6893 View Post
I know they’ve had a left handed thread since the late 50’s. One of my revolvers is a K38 from early 1957. The rest are all 70’s-early 90’s.

So if it am looking down the Cylinder as if the gun was pointed at me, and the ejector rod is pointing at me, to unscrew the rod for the newer revolvers, I’d have to turn the rod clockwise. Is that clockwise from the front of the cylinder as the rod faces me?

It seems easier to turn the cylinder while holding the rod. So padded vise or padded vice grip, and then turn the cylinder right or left?

And which way for my K38? We’re they still using right hand threads on pre model number guns?

For the newer guns with the barrel pointing at you you would turn the rod clockwise while holding the cylinder steady or you would turn the cylinder counter clockwise while holding the rod steady. But the right tool and turning the rod is the proper method.

Last edited by yrunvs; 10-10-2018 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:34 PM
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I guess there must be more than one tool. Mine (from Brownell's) came with no inserts of any kind and has worked like a charm everywhere that I have used it.
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Old 10-10-2018, 09:22 PM
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I use a clothes pin (wooden) squeezed together with a small vice grip. Works great and leaves no mark in the bluing.
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Old 10-10-2018, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevens View Post
I guess there must be more than one tool. Mine (from Brownell's) came with no inserts of any kind and has worked like a charm everywhere that I have used it.

I got one from Power Custom that doesn't use inserts and fits J/K/L/N frames and some Rugers too. Worked every time I've used it.
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Old 10-10-2018, 10:12 PM
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Nothing beats a 5c collet of the proper size. That stuff that's made for the purpose is junk compared to a 5c collet.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:06 PM
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Vise, leather padding, empty cases, and turn the cylinder.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:26 PM
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I'll bite, what do the empty cases do?
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:21 AM
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Empty cases in the chambers support the extractor star and keep it from naturally trying to twist along with the rod to which it is screwed -- which you are purposely twisting.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WR Moore View Post
If you've got a drill press or lathe you can put the rod in the chuck if you can lock the spindle. Use some muscle on the chuck wrench. Works much better than either of the tools I bought to do it.
I have a DeWalt 120vac hand drill with a keyless chuck & it worked on a super tight extractor rod that I couldn't loosen by any other means.

Insert the extractor rod as deep as you can in the open chuck, then hand tighten. Hold the chuck still with one hand & turn the cylinder with the other hand.

Just remember to double (triple) check the way you need to turn the cylinder since it's easy to lose your orientation.

Removing the cylinder from the gun first makes the job easier.

The empty cases are needed with the old style extractor star that have a round rod & pins to keep the rachet/star aligned.

The newer models which have the "D" shaped extractor rod under the star are stronger but using empties on them won't hurt.

.
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:06 AM
kbm6893 kbm6893 is offline
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Thanks. The tool I have is The Vicesmith tool. Looks like a vicegrip with a piece on each side of the jaws. When closed, the two pieces form the circle that the rod goes through. There are two holes. One for j frames and the other for k,l, and n frames.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevens View Post
Empty cases in the chambers support the extractor star and keep it from naturally trying to twist along with the rod to which it is screwed -- which you are purposely twisting.
Got it, I understand. TX
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:09 AM
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I use my Drill Press's Jacobs Chuck. To me, it is the best method because a Chuck is meant for securely gripping cylindrical type tools and will not mark, mar or scratch if tightened properly. A good quality Chuck is precise and works like a charm every time! Don't forget the empty cartridges (both on & off) and reverse thread in Smiths made after mid 20th Century.

Tighten Chuck firmly but do not "Gorilla it"! I personally pull out Drill Press plug so there is absolutely no way the motor can be turned on!
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