Hi,

I am having some trouble with my 686. When I try to pull the hammer back, it will not come back unless the cylinder release is pushed and held back first. The cylinder release was loose but I replaced the cylinder release and bolt. This corrected the loose cylinder release but did not fix the hammer issue. The trigger will also not work when trying to use double action. Any ideas on what the problem is? Thanks in advance.

Are you sure you have the right bolt ? Is the center pin worn where it protrudes from the back of the cylinder ?

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1st smiles,lies.Last,gunfire.

Just to clarify... Are doing this when the cylinder is Open or closed?

If the cylinder is open the action should be locked up and not able to fire SA or DA.

I'm trying to do this when the cylinder is closed.

I'm trying to do this when the cylinder is closed.

Yes, I'm sure I have the right bolt. I'm not sure how to tell if the center pin is worn, but I can definitely see how that could be the problem. Thank you.

If you have replaced the bolt, it sounds as if it is not properly fitted. The rear projection on the bolt is designed to block hammer movement if the bolt is not pushed back far enough by the cylinder pin when the cylinder is closed. It is a safety feature.

Gun new to you?

Have you taken the extractor rod apart and checked for crud or maybe loctite interfering with the center pin.

Clean everything up and try again.

When installing the bolt it is pretty easy to bend the plunger spring and this could cause the bolt to not travel all the way back due to the spring binding up the bolt. Make sure to check the Cylinder pin is moving freely too.

Center pin not moving back and moving bolt back. To short.
Does it move freely and protrude out of star when cylinder is open. Is the barrel end recessed about 1/8" with ejector rod when open?

Lug under barrel sticky or to short. Does it move freely with some spring tension. Use the tip of a small screw driver to work it. When you close the cylinder does it move into end of rod? Sometimes the notch in latch itself needs adjusted to give it more movement.


Center pin sticky, possibly slightly bend. With cylinder open does pin stick out of star and can you press it forward and when pressed flat to ratchet is the center rod end flush with end of rod? Should have fair tension, but move smoothly.

Springs in cylinder Assembly or spring that pushes bolt wrong or sticky. Clean and make sure little collar that small spring rides on is correct. View a assembly schematic. Everything work smoothly and ejector pop back into place?

Latch on bolt binding on frame or bolt binding in its channel in frame or possibly where its nose passes through frame. With cylinder open does the bolt face come flush to face of recoil shield? Does the thumb piece move back smoothly under slight spring tension?

Take of the side plate. Open and close cylinder and watch bolt move back and forth. I am betting your center pin isn't pressing back enough, because of weak small dia. spring in cylinder assembly, or its miss installed. Something is going on with the center pin is most likely. It is what presses the bolt back so hammer will clear it.

Double post

It looks like the center pin could be a little worn. I guess this may be my next effort. The gun is new to me. I was told it had a few unknown issues so I did take a chance on it.

I had a similar, but not the same, problem with a Model 19. Happened spontaneously at the range. I always shoot single action. The hammer could not be pulled back, and if I could, the trigger could not be pulled.

All of the responses above are excellent first courses of action, especially removing any powder residue, grit, etc. from the cylinder assembly.

In my case, a gunsmith friend opened the side plate and observed that the internal mechanism was not functioning and the previously used lubricants were gummed up (technical term). He also found three areas in which there were metal burrs and/or the mechanisms were not functioning smoothly. Poor machining when it was originally built. A few strokes from an India Stone and these problems were corrected.

[Just in case none of the other forum member recommendations solve all of your problems. ]

It's now one of my best Smith and Wesson "wheel guns"!

Bill

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That's what we do!

I can't imagine how many rounds it would take to wear one out... Like Steel said above make sure with the cyld open that you can push the pin and that it moves freely.

Also make sure the bolt moves freely too. If both of those are good it should be working.

I just wanted to say thank you all for the suggestions and help. After watching a few youtube videos and taking the cylinder apart, I discovered the cylinder pin spring was too short. I purchased a new spring and just installed it. The gun is working like a charm now. Again, thank you. I would have never thought to look in that direction if it weren't for your help.

BINGO!
I did exactly that when I recently picked up another 686 No Dash. I stoned the extractor bolt, extractor channel on the frame, and even slightly stoned the side of the hammer anywhere I could see contact points/streaks. NOW silky smooth.