I bought a S&W model 10-9 with the heavy 4" barrel. It was missing the entire cylinder assembly including the yoke but I had an extra complete cylinder assembly. The yoke fits as does the cylinder however the extractor rod and center pin are too long and hit on the barrel lug. I took the cylinder assembly from a model 10 (no dash) and a 67-2 and with both the ejector rod is too long. I took an ejector rod from a model 19-3 and while the rod was slightly shorter than the others it was still too long to clear the barrel lug. I still have to try the one from my 10-6 heavy barrel but it's probably the same as the others. Measuring from the front of the frame to the lug (not including the plunger) on the others is about 1.435" on this 10-9 it's about 1.400. What do I need for this 10-9 heavy barrel?

Sounds like that barrel is set back an extra thread than your parts guns. Trim to fit.

That's what I was thinking but it doesn't look like it's been off. Does anyone know how many thousands a one turn set back would decrease the barrel length? The barrel still measures 4&1/16". I need to dig out my 10-6 heavy barrel and check the length.

Well if I'm figuring it correctly.. It's .540" 36 thread. 1000 divided by 36 is .027777" Close to what you are finding.

Thanks. It must have been set back one turn. I will just shorten the extractor rod and center pin and have it back in business.

Why not just shorten the extractor rod collar, then trim the muzzle end of the center pin as needed ?

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

That's a good idea. I was going to put it in the lathe and shorten the step before the threads but shortening the extractor rod collar would be easier.

Here’s what happen on the cylinder fit which has been a learning process. I bought this 10-9 with no cylinder. I had a complete cylinder assembly on hand so I tried to fit it. First I found the barrel had been set back a turn so I shortened the center pin and spring collar to fit. I could put the cylinder assembly in and it would work without the yoke but with the yoke it would not close. I fooled around for quite a while until I gave up and bought a 10-10 cylinder assembly which worked after I shortened that center pin and used the collar I had already shorted. Also I had to use the shortest center pin spring I had if not it created coil bind and would not shut. A 10-9 must be odd as the older yoke won’t work but the newer style has a thicker part below the ejector rod hole so it make the frame mismatched. They must have increased the area below the ejector rod on the 10-0. To make it even more intriguing the yoke from my 67-2 which is the new style yoke with the bevel and spring loaded plunger on the retaining screw fits perfectly with no protruding part in the seam as the 10-10 yoke is. Both cylinders now work with the new style yokes, the old style yoke will not shut in this 10-9 frame. This has been a learning experience with S&W parts.

Attached Images

	yoke ss.jpg (39.0 KB, 24 views)
	yoke 1010 (1).jpg (61.8 KB, 22 views)
	yoke both.jpg (112.0 KB, 22 views)